I definitely will, was curious if any one knew before I took it apart.

I am cleaning out my garage, and have a center differential that came out of a working transmission. With it out of the transmission when I spin the shaft circled in red every 360 degrees of rotation there feels like there is a detent and there is an audible clicking sound. Other than this one...

Turbo is a 14b/16g hybrid, 14b compressor with a 16g turbine housing.

Asking $2400, not sure how the market is for these as there are none for sale in my area. Open to offers.

1991 Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX AWD.Mostly stock, engine came out of a 1991 Plymouth Laser RS-T that was my daily driver, engine has around 190K miles. I believe this engine was rebuilt based on what I observed when I lowered the oil pan to change the rear main seal. Interior is clean and the car...

Sounds good, thank you gents.

Hello, Looking for opinions on my transfer case input spline wear. Here is what my output shaft looks like, it shows only minor signs of spline wear, not concerned with it: And here is the best transfer case I have:Question is: this is going into a stock car, should I run them as is or...

car46999 submitted a new DSM Profile :1991 GSXRead more about this vehicle here...

As usual, it is always the last thing you check!Removed the Cat, BAM 21psi. Whoops now I have that problem. Cat shall be fixed and reinstalled. Thank you for all that replied.

So my BLT is a fail? I have not sprayed down the intake. I did fix the seals on the throttle body shaft. The insulators for the injectors were new when I installed them.Valve blow by would make sense, I do hear air in the engine.I assumed though with it holding for ~2.5 min, I would...

I uploaded a video of my BLT to YOUTUBE.MVI 0404 - YouTubeAir supply is turned off at ~9 seconds and pressure is at zero at 2 min 36 seconds.I am perplexed...I do not think it is the wastegate leaking now with the new housing I installed (see picture, ZERO cracks, no damage to...

Here are my logs from today. Anyone see why I am only boosting to 8-9PSI (spike to 9 only in first, 8psi otherwise).All are 3rd gear WOT pulls logging from 2000rpms. TPS is missing as it was unchecked in MMCD.LB/min does not show in these up for some reason.In MMCD I see a max of 35-36...

I just replaced the turbine housing and looking at the new one it should seal up well. The preload on the flapper should also be good, I had to pull the arm onto the flapper linkage (about 3/4 hole overlap).Can ECU caps cause this?Gonna try to get a log today (MMCD).

The BCS is still installed as factory (restrictor is removed). The 1g WG begins to open at 11.1 psi (with external pressure tester), I understand with the BCS bypassed I would see ~7psi while driving.FSM states: Standard boost value: (6.0-10.8 psi)I have read I should see 10-12 psi.I have...

Correct, I am running stock boost control. BCS is in-line with MAF nipple, other hose runs to a "T" that goes to the compressor outlet and to the wastegate actuator.Boost gauge is installed under the hood right now. Hooked up with a "T" between the fuel pressure regulator nipple and the...

I got my China EVO III turbine housing installed ***thanks again chanley talon for the great deal!BUT I only gained 1 psi, I am now up to 8psi :banghead:I did a full BLT, from turbo inlet to pisons/valves. Result is approx 2 minutes 26 seconds from 19 psi.I know my BOV is...

Weird part is that it hit ~12-13 psi the first drive after swapping the head. Never again after that. Might have been lean, I know the exhaust manifold was red after that drive.Turbo was bought used. The turbo had small cracks for sure, but I never opened the flapper to check it.Thanks...

Figured, just wanted a second opinion. It is a stock 14b.Any one have opinions on these? I read one post about the one he received had crappy machining.Ebay 16G TD05H 7MC2 TURBINE HOUSING| eBay

Looking for a second opinion on my boost issue. Only boosting to ~7psi to redline (after market gauge). BLT at throttle body is good. From 20psi bleeds down to 6psi ~1psi per 2 seconds. Hovers at 6psi for ~20 seconds.I am 90% sure that these cracks are holding me from stock max boost...

Why didn't I think of that:hellyeah:, I am gonna call Jack's today. Will post result.Here is the response from Jack's Transmission:We do sell a "kit" that will fix the 5th gear synchro rattle. The cost is $25 shipped and will consist of modified synchro keys for the 5th/reverse gear hub...

Any one know of a fix for this "5th gear synchro rattle problem"?I have a 1991 Laser that I think suffers from this. More info here, but no solution Jacks Transmissions Forums • View topic - DSM 5th Gear Synchro Ring RattleI might call them tomorrow, and see if they are still...

Where did you tap into for the boost source? Try moving it to a more stable location, such as direct to the intake (if it is not).My 2008 Mazdaspeed3 does the exact same thing (pretty sure it has no boost leaks), I attribute it to being tapped in right next to the bov (not 100% sure). It...

Yea, I assume it is the bushing. Kinda wanted to measure it to verify. Before buying.

Can someone please measure with dial calipers the timing belt tensioner arm stud diameter on a 6bolt. It is part of the mount that the tensioner arm rotates on. I need to verify which part is worn. The arm or the stud. Also anyone know if they sell just they bushing (I assume not). Thanks:thumb:

Sounds like muffler bearings. Luckily I found these for a good priceMuffler Bearing - $49.99 : KaleCoAuto, Hard to find automotive items!LOL

13g on the automatics. Saw one on ebay a few weeks ago, guy said it was a 16g

Ok I mocked it up with a 1g head and 14b, and it fits correctly.Only other info I found, is that it was superseded by pn MR239830So if anyone has any light on this, it would be great.

Anyone know if there is a difference between MD140394 and MR239830 (1g turbo oil feed lines) Just curious, as I picked up a new MD140394 for $15

Use current plug wire to connect to #1 coil output, connect timing lead to other end. Then use an old one to to connect #1 plug to other gun lead.Might have to cut old wire, or use old one on coil (not sure what type of connection is on the timing light.

You got some old plug wires laying around? Using them to connect it might work.

Can you post a pic, all timing lights I have seen are inductive. They clamp over the #1 plug wire. No plug wires are disconnected. Power is by spring clamps to the battery.

Might be good to get a new tensioner, and pulleys. http://www.streettunedmotorsports.com/parts/tensioner.htm http://www.streettunedmotorsports.com/parts/oem_dsm_tensioner_pulley_md129355.htm http://www.streettunedmotorsports.com/parts/oem_dsm_idler_pulley_md156604.htmYou can get lower priced...

Thats a CIB....

Did you look in the spot posted above? Transmission side, top, behind the freeze plug?

On my 6bolt the vin is stamped very small digits on the block. As you look from the front of the car, it would be on the left side of the block towards the rear(transmission side)

I served in the Army for 7 years as a 33W (now 35t) Intel Electronics Repairer. Got out back in 2005, but I have continued to work on Army owned Unmanned Aerial Systems (Hunter and Shadow) as a contractor. It is an exciting field, and if any of you can re-class into it I recommend it. Thank...

With the right stainless steel braided hose and some AN fittings, I am sure you could relocate the gauge a few inches away.Or move the AFPR.

Never done it, but I would have the same fear of busting the line etc (especially while driving)... I'd get a replacement just to be safe.:thumb:

In his second post he says they are up, so that might rule out the rods, unless someone rigged the lights up somehow.You really need to get in there and look at them, my Laser had one that would not go up and it was the rod. I was thankful it was not the motor.

+1 for SW, they have been making gauges a lot longer then the Glowshit have been around.

Link does not work, did you buy it?

I stand corrected, I just tore apart my second 1g head minutes ago. It had cast iron guides, and all the other components looked stock. (the first head I tore apart must have had them replaced, the valves were not original either)I still stick with my original statement to use what the...

I paid ~$25 for a used first gen in good used condition. They are $45-$50 new.

Get ya some used 550's or 650's and a SAFC off the forum, I see them for cheap <300 total. then turn up the boost to 15-17psi :thumb: That is the real way to fix it.

You could try disconnecting your two suspect items, one at a time. And see if it still does it.

I'd stick with the same material as factory, bronze I had never heard of cast iron ones before, might have a specific application not sure?..FACTORY ARE CAST IRON, IGNORE MY IGNORANCE LOL

Hope that fixes it, for you. :thumb:

I have to agree with the prior posts, DD with tubular will crack after awhile. (welds just do not hold up on the stainless) I think it can be done with high dollar stainless and expensive tig job (but you still have a 15lb turbo hanging off of it). Get a 2g or EVOIII cast one, if it is a DD.

When you said it runs well configured the factory way, that points to the AEM setup for sure. I read the factory T25 wastegate opens at 10psi. So if you are hitting 15psi it is doing something.On the factory hose routing of the BCS, one of the hoses runs to the turbo inlet pipe (did you...