Its a 20g on stock boost solenoid. But I did a boosr leak test and figured out I have a small hole in the interooler, the bov gasket is leaking and the throttle body gaskets. All of which combined could add up to this problem. I havegaskets on order and ordering a new core when I get paid...
car was running fine and boosting hard. I pulled the transmission to replace the clutch and flywheel, since putting it back together i noticed that around 4k it feels like fuel cut but after the bucking from that it pulls up to about 4.5k and continues that. if this matters at all i am running a...
i am going to be buying ecmlink very soon and i was wondering if anyone knows a good shop around arkansas or oklahoma area. I just want to do some dyno tuning to get a safe base tune, then i can fine tune it from there. Honestly i dont know how to use the software, as i have never messed with it...
Turned 25 last month bought my dsm back 05 first and only that I have had. its my baby, havent had any other car of my own since, been used as a daily. Never plan on leaving the dsm community. :) dsm for life.
Im still curious to what this was rubbing on. I was thinking about buying a set of evo wheels, definitely dont want this issue. However cars dropped 2in and I dont want to raise it back. Wanting to know what this issue is?
The one to left of the turbo kicks on with temp switch. The other one in front of turbo is for a/c and only come on when a/c is turned on. I had mine running just the one oem for a while then put the slim in and had no issues. it ran normal in temps up to around 80. Now I have both wired, so...
I have a 3.5 inch turbo back to a straight magnaflow. No cat, no resanator. But like the first 3 I.ches of the down pipe are factory. Cheap way to make exhaust, the previous owner had done. However, I love the way it sounds but the muffler was made for diesel truck.
Good, thank you that's what I wanted to hear, doing evo in the rear and outlander in thr front, everything for all 4 corners runs just a little over 500 not bad imo.
Thats what I hear, the stock bolts from the eclipse are to long and hit the rotor. And iugrad that video seemed to help more than the writeups, im more visual because actually seeing it on the car helped.
If I'm not mistaken the gst and gsx rear are the same. I think the only difference is the 2 piston caliper and bigger rotor up front. Correct if im wrong.
Just to verify, what I understand from that video is that they just bolt directly to were the oem brackets goes? So all I need for the rear is caliper, pads and rotors? I just dont want to have everythi ng tor. Dow. To find out I need a bracket. By tbe way thank you. That video helps alot, just...
One question about this setup. Searched around and haven't found this answer. When purchasing all the posts parts, do they have a bracket like the stock gst calipers or do the just bolt to where the stock brackets were ?
is that the one on the left or the right behind the stereo? because i was looking at those the other day and there is 2 but one was clicking everytime i pull or replace the fuse but i couldnt tell which one
so I have already spent a few hours searching on here and google and cant seem to find an answer. I have a Battery Drain overnight, i did the battery draw test and narrowed it down to being the "engine" fuse located under the hood. Does anybody know what all the fuse controls, so i know where to...
ok guys, just trying to get the import faceoff filled with dsms :hellyeah: anyway sunday september 19. At tulsa raceway dragstrip, the website says 9:30 am to 12:00 pm. Just to let everyone know, so come on guys and let the dsm play.
There is a shop in fort smith, ar called dyno and performance. there used to be 2 guys that worked there that where really good with dsms. however i dont know if any of them still work there. Jeff and Braden. the onwer John knows some from bein around them.
that would be sweet. i think we should all go down to centerville in april, for the third annual limgo shootout. its for a ggod cause and its like the only mostly import night they have. im not sure what day it will be on yet, but this year was fun.
all local shops said they could cut off the corners of the flange where the bolts are and weld new metal and redrill it to same specs. at 90 bucks an hour, he said it would take like 3 or 4 hours to do so, and it would probably mess up seals. i kinda got the notion that most of these guy around...
ok so here goes. I have search for over an hour an cant find anything. i have 2 manifold to turbo bolts broke off in turbo, it is a 16g. now heres my question. most turbo have a bolt clamp to seperate, mine does not it has a keeper ring of sort on exhaust side. the problem is when i clamp down...
you say call another machine shop but locally there are only like maybe 3 around me. i have taken it to 2 shops and the other one said above mention cutting through the corner and bolt and rewelding but he said that it might get to hot and ruin any seals inside and i dint want to take that...
ok, before anybody starts in on me. i have already tried search, and i dont think this belongs in any tech forum. so here goes. i have a 16g and 2 bolts are broke off in the flange that bolts to manifold i have tried easyout and drilling them but i cant seem to get through. machine shop was...
I would keep the 16g and just port the stock manifold unless you are planning to go with massive amounts of hp, or you can go with a 20g. but as far as manifold as above stated the stock is good. i look at it this way, thats a couple hundred spent elsewhere on the car that needs it.