Either the fan isn't hooked up on the thermistor(I think that's what its called,located bottom of rad) if it is then it could be wiring or the thermistor is bad. Start with BLT for the idle surge.

Heard there were couple dsms out last friday, gess that was you guys. Hopefully my 1g gets off the jackstands this week so Ican hit it up this coming friday. Let me know if you guys coming out again.

Deleting the downstream o2 will trigger a CEL which can be turned off via link, you can delete the upstream o2 and simulate narrowband signal with your WB through link.

There will be a meet up this Sunday at nex at noon. Couple dsm will be there, just thought I let you guys know.

Hey D3monx, thats looks effin great! Did you sand before painting it? About how many coats you used in one panel?

You let it dry in between coats?

so all you guys did was: -Wetsand(what grit did you guys use?) -Dry and clean it -Apply coats(How many coats? Thick or thin?How far away is the nozzle?) Thats it? You guys seem to have some good results and would love to try it on my faded out 1g.

Anybody running this set-up? I seem to have a hard time keeping my A/F inline with my DA tables. How did you guys go about tuning it? This is with DO kit with progressive control.

post it if you guys are planning a dsm meet up, I could roll up with my 1g and 4 other DSMs, more the better!

Okay, thanks for the help. I never got sh!t done to the car today, I'll try new coils from a friend and smaller gap, will let you guys know what happens.

I still have the stock coil in the car, as for the wires Im using replacement Denso 7mm. Could it be that my coil is going or my wires are too weak? or both? Either way Im gonna change the wires to some thicker ones, I will have to find aother coil if that doesnt fix it.

I havent tried narrower gaps yet, and yes when I was at 26-28, I would breakout as soon as I hit boost. I just kept going narrower to 22 till it did'nt break out anymore. I guess your right about the charge being to thick. Is it any danger going as narrow as lets say, .16-.18? I might try that...

They are NGK bpr8es, gapped at .22, any wider and I bog/breakout at even lower rpms.

Sorry my profile isnt updated. I do have a log, I'll post when I get my laptop back. As for fuel, I have rewired walbro 255, and 1200cc injectors, so I'm guessing lack of fuel isnt the problem. This actually happened when I started using alcohol injection. I also thought it would be running too...

Yup I searched but could'nt really find anything similar to my issue. My car seems to misfire at high rpm, can,t go past 7k. The wierd thing is, it only happens in third gear, 1st and 2nd cant go as high as 7.5k without a problem(I haven't tried doing it in 4th or 5th gear). I've already change...

when was this? couldve been us....

I usually go out on Fridays, meet up with the other DSMs by Jack's. Couple weeks ago I saw 1 clean ass white 1g, 3-4 2gs on the cruise, was shocked to see that much in one place lol.

ECMTuning User Support ForumsLink forums seems pretty slow, so I figured I'd post here too, really need help!

Okay just installed my DO meth kit stage 2, one preturbo and one post intercooler. Started my car then boom, idle surge and after couple seconds of running it stalls out (car runs on sd). First thing I thought of was my post intercooler nozzle is leaking, but would it affect idle since my map...

5th gen Toyota Celica All-trac MkIII Turbo Supra

Does the pedal get stuck to the floor? One thing for sure is that your clutch isn't disengaging, either the rod is out of adjustment, the maser cylinder, the slave, fork, TOB or PP....I would change the slave, master and do the adjustmet since its the easiest/cheapest.

Im in Honolulu, 1gb tsi AWD....very rare to see other DSMs here

Im using a square u-bolt ( 3"x6" , I think), and a 'L' plate/bar on the open side...mounted it kinda similar to the JMF heat shield...

the runners do come high so I had to make it fit somehow lol, doesn't look as good as the aftermarket ones they sell though....

heres mine with cool tape under it also, fp race manifold under it.... [/IMG]

samething my car have since I installed my fidanza FW and stage 5 Comp clutch.

faulty wideband sensor? does it even read/sweep or just stays lean?

"fuel smell", most likely your running rih. This may cause by fouled o2 sensor or boost leak.

O2 Sensor FAQ This site shows how it works and how to test the sensor. Boost leak can also cause you to run rich, thus bad gas mileage. Do a boost leak test.

RRE VDO Boost Gauge Installation Instructions

I can't get my o2 sensor to cycle and I cant get the car to close loop. I'll post my log when I can get to my laptop, but I did post it at the link's forum. http://www.dsmlink.com/forums/showthread.php?t=44159

Check out the part-outs on the classifieds, also your local junkyard and dont forget to hit dsmgraveyard.com.

Thats 190 at the crank, propably around 175-180 to the wheels. The guy said its only at 15 psi, stock boost is like 12-14 psi, so getting around 200-225 with the current set-up isnt too bad I think. And like AjWit said it has a lot to do with the tune, and remember every car is different.

OEM HG with ARP head studs should be enough.

That hp numbers was propably on the crank not to the wheels? I didnt even read about that test using some kind of engine management, and it was only at 17 psi plus just dropping in a pump wont give you a 10hp instantly.

I would use the stock rod bolts since your only gonna run 15-18 psi, and I read somewhere that the stock(new of course) composite head gaskets are better?

Im sure the 190lph would be enough for 15 psi on 16g. Its probably not rewired though, thats why he thinks the pump are too small. When you do put a 255 in, make sure you have an AFPR to keep the pump in check and rewire it so it gets constant voltage. Upgraded clutch would be nice since the...

Make sure all the maintenance was done, timing belt, oil change etc...Make sure the car isn't too hacked-up/modded, if it is make sure its done properly.

I dont get what your saying at all. When you raise the boost you will need to tune to be safe. Doesn't matter what kinda fuel pump you get as long as that pump can handle the boost you set it at. Since he already have a 255 pump, he will need an AFPR to keed the pump in check, he doesnt really...

Well how does your car "feel"? Does it sputter/anything abnormal? Did all the maintenance? 8psi is pretty low, you can turn up the boost if you have a boost controller and a aftermarket gauge, stay at 12psi jst to be safe.

^^^on a 2g its mounted on top the IM.

There the same thing(1g and 2g), except from a 90

thats the power transistor/igniterin a 1g http://diy.prostreetonline.com/pso/images/howto/dsm1gdis1.jpgin a 2g http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/attachments/articles-electrical-wiring/84192d1213373428-2g-engine-bay-electrical-connections-7.-power-transistor-medium-.jpg

yup sounds like fuel cut, turn the boost down a little or upgrade your fuel set-up....

I do my BLT by taking off the intake pipe and MAF, then putting in the tester on where the intake pipe connects to the turbo. This way you can detect leaks from the TB and IM area, if theres any. Looks like your only testing the IC pipes amd IC core? you blocked off the upper IC that connets...

uhmm pull your exhaust out check/take out whats in there...

I would get ecmlink, it is around $600 but you can do so much with it. Im only 18 with no tunning experience but ecmlink is such a user frienly tunning system.

Check your ECU. Is your cel on?

with the 255 its probably running rich, change it out to stock and see what happens.

Sounds like my car before, except mines would miss even at WOT, turns out it was the CAS thats bad. Wont hurt to check it.