Good call. I sold my talon and bought an Evo a couple days later. In no way do I regret doing that. The Evo is leaps and bounds better in every way then dsm's. Good luck with car shopping.
Here's my POSDSM. Its a work in progress.<a href="http://s615.photobucket.com/albums/tt231/Tastytalons/?action=view¤t=talonedit.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i615.photobucket.com/albums/tt231/Tastytalons/talonedit.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
I would suggest staying away from PTE turbos, too many of them fail. My best friend has a 6262 on his spyder, made 521whp with it, but the kicker is that he has had it warranted 4 times so far for it blowing up and it is almost out right now. PTE won't replace it this time and he is out on his...
The problem that all of you are missing, excessive crank case pressure. You need to fix pr upgrade your pcv system. I have 2 -10an lines on the vc evacuating the blow by. I've never had a problem with my dipstick popping out after I upgraded the pcv system.
I would recommend the fp rewire. I would also recommend going with the STM fp rewire kit, it a lot nicer then the eBay kit. Ive installed both kits, and the STM looks almost oem when installed. Either way do the rewire.
Just call them. Dial 972.984.1800 listen to the menu, press the number for sales, ask your question and you will have your answer. Now was that so hard?? Stop being lazy and start thinking.
I would go with a pte 6262 billet if you want 650-700. That will put you up there and it goes for $900. If that's not big enough, go with the pte 6765 billet, it goes for about $1050. Buy a billet turbo either way, they are much better then the old cast wheels.
Yeah, I will try and roll out to the meet on friday Aaron. I will no doubt miss my car, but I will get an evo in due time. Right now, I have to get going in school and all that crap. It will be worth it in the end. I just hope that some rich punk kid doesn't want to buy it, cause he will kill...
I can't see the listing mention a brand anywhere, so I wouldn't use them. For a part like valve springs, don't go cheap, cause you will end up paying for it later.
The red is a good turbo, I have run that one. I have had a green too and that was fun. The turbo I have now is a red, but I have the HTA82 compressor wheel on it instead of the 60-1 wheel. I am seeing about 22psi by 4k rpm. The red I had was seeing the same 22psi about 4500-4600rpm. If you are...
I use an fp inline filter/restrictor that is .100". It's meant for journal bearing turbos using -4an feed lines. I haven't had any issues with oil pressure at the turbo since I installed it. Before I put it in I always have puffs of smoke coming out of my exhaust between shifts. I hope this helps.
You can vent with no mods, but it works better to have it recirc'd with a mostly stock setup. Also, TiAL bov's are the only way to go, they are the best ones on the market right now.
The header paint will work, but make sure that you get the VHT brand Flame-proof 2000 degree paint. Also, make sure that you put it on lightly. If you put more then 2 light coats on, it will flake right away. Also, make sure that you let it cure by heat cycling it a couple times before you go...
The mani can still be ceramic coated without problems. I wouldn't heat wrap it personally, because fp never intended for them to be wrapped. The jmf heat shield is no longer made, so you will need to fine one used or make your own. The fp mani is really nice though, so you don't need to worry...
I reccomended the high impedence injectors, cause they are much easy to tune then big low impedence injectors. In my opinion they are the only way to go if you are going to buy new injectors. The price has been lowered too, so they aren't too much more then standard injectors.
I think that you should just go with a built motor with Mahle pistions and Scat rods, that is a cheap combo. Also, go with a built 1g head, ss valves, kiggly springs and some Kelford 272 cams. For a turbo, go with an Fp hta82-86, one of those has 10's under its belt no problem. For a fmic, go...
The hks cams are much less agressive then the kelfords. I would suggest going with the hks cams, cause the kelfords are over kill for a b16g. The kelfords are amazing cams though. Also, don't go with a b16g get an evo316g, you will have the same spool time and make more power with the evo3 16g.
The best clutch? Single or twin disc? I would say that an ACT pp with a southbend or clutchnet disc is the best, and as for the twin disc I would suggest a QuarterMaster.
I don't believe that it is too far out of our budgets. A new fly wheel like a fidanza or act is about $200, and most good clutches are about $450, OEM tob about $40. So that is about $700 roughly, and I believe MAP had their QM twin discs on sale for about the $850 area shipped about a month...
Get a QM twin disc and be done with needing an upgrade. They will hold anything you can throw at them for the most part, and they are fully rebuildable. I have one and love it, the best clutch I've ever had over all the ones I've used before. (xtd stg4, act 2100/2600/3200, and a exedy twin disc).
That turbo could be a lot of things. It is just in a tdo5 housing. SBR makes Bastard 20g turbos that are stuffed into a tdo5 housing also. I have an hta82 wheel in a tdo6h housing for instance.
My brother uses a red on his talon. He is getting 26psi at about 4400rpm. Its a pretty fun turbo.The older fp red's use the clipped TDO6H wheels, but the newer ones use the fp spec TDO6H wheels that use 11 blades versus the MHI 12 blade wheels. Fp does this so that clipping is not needed and...
You should use upgraded springs and retainers. Once you see the lobe profile on the fp3 cams you will understand the need for the upgraded springs.You could try using the fp upgrade springs for the Evo s&r's too.
I just welded one of the brakets to the front of the fp mani, and welded in two bolts to the bracket so that it uses the original holes. It works perfect.
If I were to buy a new turbo I would be going with the PTE. If you are just looking at a fun street turbo that will net you some good power and 1/4 mile times you could also look into the BW turbos. I'm not much of a fan of Holset turbos on our cars, but they do get the job done. My vote is for...
I agree with what Andy said, but I wouldn't do the oversized valves. My reasoning being that some tuners, including mine, have tested heads with O/S valves and standard valves back to back and have gained nearly nothing. Also, most machine shops don't have the proper tools to enlarge the ports...
Go with Magnus. I would have them build you a 2.2l long rod stroker. Then get yourself and FP 3586hta to compliment the motor. Run that mofo on e85 and you will have your 700whp DD no problem. You will need all the supporting mods and a built tranny, but Its possible.
The prothane includes the rear control arm bushing. Its a pita to remove the control arm, but it will stiffen up the rear more. The prothane set has slightly denser poly then the ES kit, most people say that if you have a dd then go ES and if you have a weekend warrior then get the prothane kit...
Get a q45. They are the biggest and are cheap. You can pick them up for less the $100 in most cases. The tps is also very easily spliced I to the stock wires. You won't ever need an upgrade after either, cause I think that a 90mm tb is more the sufficent. If you want a stock style one, get an nt...