The car is up and running now. The coil swap worked. The tach works as well. So you can use later year coils with a 1990, just be sure to swap all the components over from the 90 to the later coils.

You can wire other coils into a 1990. I used a 95 coil. Just be sure to wire exactly how the 90 was. The tach will work as well. You will have to get creative on mounting the tach box and the transistor but it will work.

Thanks Steve,My injectors were not firing since I installed the engine back in. I had a code 41. It appears I as well swapped the connectors between the ISC and the inj resistor. Fired right up after switching them correctly

All the wiring is done, will have to make up a bracket to mount the transistor. Hopefully when it comes time to fire, I have spark. Thanks all

It will be alot easier to mount the transistor and the tach module than trying to do the coils on a 2g bracket. I can just mount them on the 2 bracket on the side. Coils themselves are pretty much interchangable besides the mounting issue, correct?

I have searched. I know when updating the 90 to the later ign, you have to get a new transistor and changed a wire in the ecm. You also have to get a new dash cluster to get the tach to work. The best way is to get a board from Key Diver to make the tack work. I just want to wire in a 2g...

I am going to be putting a 2g head / intake on a 90. I want to keep the 2g coil bracket with the intake. If I would wire the tach box and the transistor to the 2g coils the same it should work, correct?

Another thing to note, is to make sure the pins are pushed all the way into the connector. I've seen pins pushed back in the connector making a bad connection or no connection.

Keydiver had a small little wire harness to correct the tach issues, when going in a 90. I installed a 92 ecu in my talon as well. Here is a link to what I am talking about.KEYDIVER Chips -1991+ ECU in a 1990 DSM

Has anyone run into the 2g heads that already have the larger headbolt holes from the factory, not enlarged. Don't laugh, I accidently bolted a 7 bolt head down on my 6 bolt. The head slipped right down on the headstuds. I did not do any of the oil mods stated in this post. Does anyone know...

Kthackst,I did nothing to the head bolt holes, unfortunately my holes in my head did not need machined for the head studs. The heads that do not need machined for the 6-bolts, do they still need opened up for proper oiling to the valvetrain?

When they guys have the 2g heads hogged out, are they running a 1g intake? I have read with a knowledged shop the 2g head can be made to flow more than a 1g head due to more meat to work with.

Thanks guys,An Evo 3 intake would be nice. I considered opening up the ports for the 1g manifold, but I reconsidered due to the amount of material needed to be removed. For my HP goals would it probably be fine. I think it would be more feasible just to bolt 6 bolt head on for the amount...

Thanks Rush2252,I was given that option earlier by a friend. I saw with the JM Fab manifold that they suggest using a 1g intake gasket in which I would still have to open the intake ports to use it. If I went with a 2g intake, I assume all I would have to do is port out the throttle body...

My dilemma, I am building my 6 bolt engine. I have the machine work all done and the cylinder head is now torqued down. I have come to realize the head I had resurfaced is a 2g head due to the intake ports are smaller. Just my luck it fit over the headstuds. My original 6 bolt head is trashed...

How big of a core do you want to install? I have the Punishment Racing core and I just enlarged the holes for the IC pipes and cut into the crash beam. I could leave the A/C and P/S there if I wanted too. There is alot of bracing in the crashbeam to cut out. I used a plasma cutter but grinding...

The flex additives are put in the paint, so it wont crack when the part is put back on the car. This additive eventually evaporate out of the paint. Depending on what paint is used on the car it will crack on flexible plastics etc. Depending on how the crack looks, it could be an issue of...

When purchasing Carbon Fiber parts, you have to be sure they are using epoxy resin. The epoxy stands up better to UV. Also if it cracks you normally will have one crack, it wont spider out. Some doing Carbon work will use Polyester resins designed for fiberglass to save some cash. They dont...

Where is the 1ga love? Can 1ga be added? Thanks

The whining noise was the first signs of my 14b going out as well. Mine did it when I started to load the engine. Impeller would scrap the housing

Someone should start a poll for 1g lips. I saw a while back there was hope to have some made but I guess it went no where. I would be interested in one made out of Carbon Fiber. If a vendor would charge $250.00 for the Lip, they would still be making decent profits if 30 or so would buy

The determining factor on how a paint job is the prep work. A good bit of the cars today have orange peel, some more severe than others. I would never consider rolling paint on my car, but I have respect for the guys that had good results. To get a good look out of it, you have to wetsand after...

InfiniteGsx, thanks for the info. I am thinking this would be the best bet over mounting splitters under my cover. Keep us posted on how you make out.

I have been painting cars for several years. I agree as well, don't use Rustoleum. The paint does not have the additives for the enviromental conditions and will break down quicker. You already have a spray gun, save up a little and get some automotive paint. To get good results you will...

I used the Krylon Fusion paint as well for my interior. I am really impressed how it came out. I previously used PPG dye for interiors and it showed imperfections alot more. Surface prep is the key, make sure its clean.

I agree as well, that lip does look good. I've been searching for lips for my 90 Talon with no luck. What mods has to be done to the lip to make it work? And last, what exactly is it made for? Thanks, things are looking good now.

If your engine had been overheated several times, you need to be sure the head is not warped. If your not going above 30 psi or so, stick with a composite gasket with ARP's that would be the most forgiving for sealing. Just watch if using abrasives that they dont get down in the oil passages...

dsm-onsterThanks, I like your good technical answers. The Holset seems a good way to go. I have more reading to do on the BW S200 and 300 series before I decide. I want the best possible setup I can for pump and pos meth. Thanks again

dsm-onsterWith looking at the different exhaust housings you can get for the Hx-35 /40, I believe the divided T3 style would be better. I know you can get divided headers for the t3, but I would rather run a cast divided manifold for durability on the street. Would I see much of a loss...

Before you take your car to the shop, ask how much it will be to look at it. Most small leaks can take some time to find. You can buy yourself a few of those R134 cans to last you a few years, compared to what a shop will charge you to look at it.

greencolt,Excellent job on the targa. I'd be interested in that front lip as well