Are you wanting to stay with a 2.0L or are you considering stroking it?

Make sure your lugnuts are all tight. I know it sounds weird, but I've had loose lugs and a loose wheel and it only made noise under certain load conditions and at certain speeds.Also, make sure your brake dust shield isn't making contact with anything.

That trick worked for me and Paul (99gstracer). It's easiest to do with the driveshaft off the car, but it can be done with it still on the car. We sent a bunch of RTV into the yoke, and used something to push it all the way to the back. Then just set it facing upward as best as possible...

Ideally, you would want it mounted on the plenum, but it should function properly mounted to the runner like that.

Use a bandsaw or a chop saw.They perform well enough. As long as you don't have clearance issues, then run them.

Alot of this will completely depend on things like, where you want your powerband to be, what you'll be doing with the car, how high you want to rev, etc...Fill us in.

Interesting. How much crank end play did you measure?

Time for better drill bits. :thumb: It's the only way.However, if the two broken ones aaren't right next to each other, you could probably get away with installing the pan without those two bolts. It shoudn't leak with a nice bead of silicon.

The Avenger ones should work, if you have find an Avenger with rear disc. The base model Avengers had rear drums too, and that's probably what you'll find more of in the scrap yard. I have no clue about the Sebrings.have to tried PMing someone here that is parting out a turbo 2G?

Vibrant couplers are very nice, and almost every vendor here sells Vibrant.Also, extremepsi couplers are pretty nice and well priced too.

Definitely not harder to swap, the process it pretty much the same for either. But they are heavier so unless you have a tranny jack, you'll need a bit more muscle.Need a replacement tranny?

You can also try SIM (Strictly Import Motorsports). They usually have a pretty decent selection of used 2G parts.

The Felpro and Mitsubishi composite gaskets have bores that are larger than 85mm. I dont have one here to measure, but Im almost positive that its 86mm+. So try a factory gasket, it should work just fine for you.

Sounds like it could have skipped some teeth and caused piston to valve contact. That would explain the noise and lack of power.

Prove it. if youre going to call something garbage, at least back it up with some facts. :rolleyes: :ohdamn:I can show you several DSMs running Autolite 63's and making enough power to run in the 10s and 11s. Its not my plug of choice but it's surely not garbage either.

As long as it's timed after heavy use, you can run w/o coolant lines and coking will be minimal.

Following up: Turned out one wire had ripped out of the CAS plug and went undetected. We replaced the entire plug with a new one.

Thanks for all the replies guys. Like Paul said, we are going to check for the missing wire later tonight. Being that we weren't the ones that did the six bolt swap we really don't know how all the electrical was done. I will post our findings tonight.

So I got out to the garage today and tried a new PTU and swapped out my ECU back to the factory. All with the same results. Still no spark in cylinders 2 and 3. Any other ideas that I could try? Thanks for the help thus far.

The swap was done by the previous owner. We pulled the engine last winter after I blew a headgasket and this is the first time trying to start her up since.

I have tried two different coil packs with the same results. Not getting any spark to cylinders 2 and 3. I have a 6 bolt with a 95 ECU and ECM link. I've done a search and found that it's possible it could be the ECU or power transistor. Will be trying both of those tonight, looking for any more...

Haha, that's my roomate Dale, that was a 14b housing. Pretty heavy when you wear it around all day, lol.

Those are Racing Hart C4's. I have the same rims but in 19's and I actually parked just down a little ways from that car on Saturday.

I have a 99 gsx with a 1g alternator in it. The problem I'm running into is that I have a 2g plug that will not plug into my alternator. I have a 1g plug that will plug in but there are only two wires going into the plug where as there are four wires going into the plug that is currently on my...

I agree with Tj, that setup will work with low boost but you will want to upgrade ## fuel and go with dsm link later on for sure. Let me know how everything works out, I am currently running a 16g and might possibly upgrade later. good luck!

Go with the all red, that would look best I think.

I have 19 inch Racing Hart C4's. I am think about selling them and getting 18's. I'm not sure what kind yet. Any suggestions are welcomed too. Thanks

Absolute is right. The cheap ebay coilovers will ruin your factory struts out faster than anything. I have Eibach Sportlines and I probably got a 1.5 or maybe 2 inch drop out of them. Like I said I like the ride and the way the car sits but it will ride much better when I replace the factory...

I had tokico struts on my old car and am thinking about purchasing them again for my eclipse. Currently I have Eibach sportline lowering springs with oem struts and love the way my car sits and rides, I do advise upgrading the struts which is what I will be doing soon. Check out my pictures if...

It really does depend on how you want your car to perform either on the street or on the tack.With either turbo you will need to tune and upgrade your fuel management.For the tune I would recommend DSMLink. A friend of mine uses Link and I myself will be picking it up as well.

The search owns you: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/appearance-interior-exterior/188099-post-pics-your-fav-2g-hood.html

nice, looks great!

The 4G63 swap is not simple, direct, or easy. It won't just drop right in.If it runs, drive it as a DD. If you don't need it, then sell it to someone so they can daily drive it.There's no sense in parting out a car of low value, especially if it runs. It's worth more running and driving.

I'd run the BOV and boost gauge from the plenum side of the intake manifold. For the wastegate, tap into the j-pipe, lower intercooler pipe, or compressor cover.

It would be best to connect that port to the nearest pressure source. That would probably be the compressor housing or the lower intercooler pipe.Some people also even 'T' them off of the BOV line. Though that is not the optimal source, yours may be set up like that.

My '95 EPROM has the same exterior zinc coated casing as my '99 ECU did.I've never seen a plastic case before.