If they still have the color coded insulation on them you should be able to reconnect going off of that. Best to start there and you can use this to know what each wire goes to.http://www.dsmlink.com/images/forums/1GECUPinout.pdf

I believe this was answered by Outlaw on CODSM.org! Here's the post Darren, but let us know if this doesn't answer your question."Just order 7bolt pistons and they come with the right 22mm pin. Tell GRP you are building a 6 bolt with 22mm wrist pins. That's all you have to do. I run GRP's in...

Hal Landry on RMDSM.org runs a mechanical pump off the cam sprocket so there are other options as well. I will try to find his pictures for you if your not a member there.

Maybe your wideband sensor is going bad. Are you running a narrow band as well and if so what does that say?

Are you going off the factory gauge? What is the CEL light for?

What brand manifold was that?

Piston is most definitely melted if the spark plug was, but a compression test would verify like everyone said. You can rent the tester from Autozone if you don't have one.

Jack the motor up on the driverside with a 2x4 on the a/c compressor bracket and it makes it easier to access from the top.

Make sure the coolant temp sensor for the ecu is hooked up or the car will think its -50 outside and won't want to start.

Drill a hole in the center and use an easy out to remove it as you wouldn't want to be driving the car around and not know if you are over-heating

Are you using a palm cable or laptop cable as they are not interchangeable?

Sounds like you need to do a boost leak test on the car as they probably forgot to tighten a hose clamp they loosened while they R&R the transmission

Sent you a PM on a kit and why is Jonvr4 not on the site any longer?

It's extremely difficult to understand what you have and haven't done, but if you have an awd flywheel in the car with a fwd transmission that is your problem and you need a fwd flywheel.

Is your BISS screw missing?

Make sure to solder the new connector on as oppose to using crimp connectors and put some shrink tube over the splices as well

If you have aftermarket gauges a wire was probably tapped incorrectly

Do you have a bigger fuel pump than stock as your regulator may have been getting overrun? What tuning symptoms are you seeing?

As stated get your ecu back and get the car running again before worrying about your blowby and rings. Perform a compression test on the motor as well to see if its low. With only 1000 miles the rings may not even be broken in yet depending on how the car was driven and what oil was used.Let...

I was wrong in stating the parking brake as it is indeed green like discussed. Definitely could be the cigarette lighter as its plenty long by the looks of your picture.

Essentially you have blow by happening in the motor and that is why you have the air escaping past the rings. Since you are not performing the boost leak test on a warm motor I would suggest doing that once you get your ecu back. The engine has been sitting for a while it would appear and thus...

I would verify the mechanical timing is correct and are you venting the blow off valve to atmosphere?

Start with t-case as I stated earlier and if that is fine it may be the center diff. Were you running the car hard prior to the issue?

If you need a pedal assembly for a statquest my brother has a few parts ones that he could get whatever you needed off of them.

Could just be water in a connector shorting something. Once it dries out it may be fine again and if it is you need to put dielectric grease in all your connectors for engine sensors to keep water from shorting them in the future.

I agree on performing the boost leak test first

Had the same problem on a 1995 2g and it was the cam position sensor behind the intake cam gear. I was able to change it without having to reset the timing belt, which made it a 2 hour job.

Use a mityvac tool from autozone or somewhere and pull a vacuum on the bleeder to suck the fluid through the line. Easiest way to bleed brakes. Another option is to back bleed the system by pushing fluid from the bleeder through the line and into the master to push all the air out.

It may go to your parking brake although its hard to tell the orientation of the picture with you zoomed in so far.

Check your t-case fluid as it may be seized due to lack of fluid.

Just wanted to correct some misinformation as the vehicle is a 1991 since that paint scheme and pop-up lights only came on a 1991. The car was also confirmed to be a 5 speed for those interested

Dogbox in action! Love it

I have one that should work on your 2G, however you can get them brand new from silicone intakes. I'm assuming you are doing the piping work yourself?