Tommy Archer is still at it!http://www.duluthnewstribune.com/sports/3986091-though-fighting-cancer-61-year-old-tommy-archer-hasnt-lost-his-touch-track

Your WB should be grounded to the same spot as the ECU sensor grounds. By grounding it at a different location, there is the potential for a voltage offset between the WB ground and the ECU ground. This offset would skew your reading, using your formula .1v offset would change your reading by...

Just got mine hooked up last night. MS3x with the internal knock module, stock knock sensor. I haven't done any tuning of the knock sensor parameters, but I drove around and compared the MS reading to MMCd. Both show knock at the same time, so I'm on the right track.

Impressive! Get a website and start pimping this thing! The Megasquirt crowd is a huge market, maybe you could get in with DIYAutotune for marketing it?

Earlier this week I set up a Moates 2Timer with the Ostrich to enable on the fly switching between two different bins. A quick search showed only two folks talking about using the 2Timer, so I figured I’d write something up.Here is what I did:Install the 2Timer. Open the ECU, unplug the...

I searched quite a while for a replacement grommet for the low coolant sensor and finally found something that works.Item DetailsIt's from a mid 80's GM, my local Checkers had it in stock. Any store that carries the Help! Line of parts should be able to get it.To install it, I first...

What size is the 2g cooling fan fuse? On a 1g, the fuse is 30amps, so I'm sure the relay is rated for more than that (otherwise the relay would be the fuse!)

Sorry folks, I didn't post this up as the end-all answer to everything cyclone. Nor did I expect to pinpoint how everyone should activate and/or tune their own setup. Considering all I did was provide information about what I experienced, I'm surprised at some of the negative comments.I was...

Springs, shocks and swaybars are great, but if you take a 10 second car to a road course with stock brakes your day might end badly.

Not quite 70+tq, but close.http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/dyno-talk/460880-2-4-e316g-216-hp-263-tq.htmlI haven't been back to the dyno, but I did find that the intake cam was advanced 3.75*(1/2 tooth). Since fixing that airflow in the upper rpm range is quite a bit higher than before...

To expand on this, the TC are a twin tube strut and the HDs and MR B6 struts are mono tube.

What width and diameter wheels are you running?

I used the 4g63 timing cover with my g4cs. Is your cam timing correct?

Very cool shots! I would have liked to heard more of the engine, is your exhaust just that quiet?

I don't have hard data for that, but the upper IC pipe was barely above room temp immediately after each run.Agreed, and Shane did mention that. The torque falling like a rock still has me stumped.On edit: Compression test came back good, maybe too good. 206,209, 209, 210. I was expecting...

Sorry, I should have clarified. Timing below 3k is ok, it was just that when it started to spool we had to go down to -5 to avoid knock.Yesterday I pulled the exhaust off, no significant change.Thanks for the suggestions!

Knock sensor was replaced about 3k miles ago, and inspected when I built the 2.4 last summer, could still be bad though.I'll try lowering the AFRs a bit, but I'm surprised that I couldn't hit 300 on 92. This may be enough to move me to e85.

He didn't really have an answer. He was surprised at how timing sensitive it was, and thought it might be an octane issue. He thought that the HP curve wasn't too abnormal.I tried doing a compression test, but the O'Reilly tester hose spun on the fitting, leaving me fight getting it out...

Stock cams, and I checked the flex pipe and cat, both are clear. I'll try unbolting the exhaust next.No compression test yet, my tools are 140 miles away and the local stores are rented out. I'll have to look further out. The short block has 1k on it and seems to be in good health. The timing...

Fuel pressure is 38 psi, AFRs are in the first plot.I know something is not right, not sure what. The cars drives beautifully, gets 25-26 mpg, idles nice ect.The operator was using his TMO logger, so unfortunately I don't have a log file to share.

I'm looking for possible answers to a confusing dyno session.<img src="http://www.dsmtuners.com/gallery/files/8/9/8/1/4/image_278593.jpg" alt="2.4 E316g Dyno" /> <img src="http://www.dsmtuners.com/gallery/files/8/9/8/1/4/image_140055.jpg" alt="2.4 E316g Dyno" /> <img...

Vacuum canister from a dodge minivan, a random emissions solenoid and an rpm switch from Jegs.JEGS Performance Products 40822 JEGS RPM-Activated Switches

I was very surprised at the dyno today. We tested the activation rpm of my cyclone intake and found that there was almost no difference between using only the primary runners at low rpm or using both set of runners.<img src="http://www.dsmtuners.com/gallery/files/8/9/8/1/4/image.jpg"...

What I received from Jeff was the addition of the 482 MAF transfer function into the files I already had, Jeff did not supply anything else.

Not quite there Sally. The file I offered was from the dsmecu group. The steaming pile of code I paid you for had a load scale that was so far off it was commanding 15* timing at cruise. Your "intellectual property" is safe, I deleted it long ago.

It will work fine with SD, even better than with a MAF. SD doesn't know the difference between air that is through the throttle body or around it. Try disconnecting a vacuum line, your idle speed will increase.

FWIW, Maximum Motorsports sells a kit similar to this ( though not made of 4340) for mustangs. They tested the kit to failure, and found that the steering arm bent before the 5/8 bolt did. The key is using bushings to support the bolt. Without the bushings the bolt bent way before the spindle...

Can you elaborate on two things?1. How did you mate the 3/4 rode end to the 14x1.5 mm tie rod? My plan is plug a female rod end and drill/tap to match the tie rod.2. Is the tapered pin a custom piece? It would be nice to not drill the arm.

If you broke that tightening the fitting, you had the wrench on the wrong part. As shown in the post #19 link, you should tighten the fitting by turning the blue part. You were applying torque to the sleve (red in the link) which is only turned when putting the fitting on the hose.

Archers sold a few street cars that were painted up to look like the 2g race cars.

Did you instal new BS bearings? If so, they need to be driven in perfectly square or they will bind. I ended up making an alignment tool with a spare front case to get my bearings in straight.

Here is a write up about the Toyota MRS ehps. Sounds like a more compact solution compared to the mr2 pump.Power Steering using Toyota MR2 EHPS pump - DIY Electric Car Forums

The vent is from a GT500, I had to take out about 6" in the middle to make it work. I don't have before/after data, someday I'll tape it off and get some numbers. I would have liked to go a bit further back on the hood,but the bulge and hood bracing conspired against me.

I've got an xdf with what you want minus the knock gauge. Pm me with an email and I'll send it over.

When I installed the MR Bilsteins I had 2" of bump and 4" rebound travel at a 13.5" fender height. With bumpstops installed I had less than 1" of bump before the bumpstops engaged. By modifying the coil overs I gained .5", someday I'll need to rework the strut ears to gain more bump. Similar...

Total agreement. I was pointing out that if the car doesn't stop now with the MC it has, changing to a larger MC will not cure the issue. The MC should be balanced with the rest of the system as you say, but if the OP doesn't change pads the problem will get worse before it gets better.

Maybe you were thinking of pv=t (pv=nrt)? Too many formulas floating around!

It's a basic leverage ratio. The area of the master cylinder compared to the area of the slave cylinder. If you increase the size of the MC, you decrease the mechanical advantage of the system. Typing on an iPad sucks, so check out Brake Upgrade , specifically "Hydraulic "Leverage" Ratios...

A larger MC will actually reduce pad pressure for a given input force, no need to start swapping hydraulics yet. I have no doubt any good set of pads will solve your issues, if you don't care about dust go for the HPS or HP+.

I would slice it lengthwise with a Dremel and use a chisel to make the split wider. Should be easy to pry off after that. Be sure to anti-seize the mounting stud when installing the new shock.

True story, universal 4 wire sensors come that way! Such as this one:Bosch 15730 - Oxygen Sensor | O'Reilly Auto PartsCrimp or solder, either way be sure to get some shrink tubing on there to keep water out. Few things are tougher than tracking an intermittent open circuit caused by corrosion.

I have the mr bilsteins on my awd 1g. I found some random LCA bushings to use as the lower mounts on the rear, everything else was a bolt in. I'm using coil overs, but I've read that the Evo spring will result in a higher ride height than you might want.

Check out your caster man! Something is effed in your front left. That much cross caster will definitley cause a pull.

Try disconnecting the sway bar. This will let the control arm (and knuckle) swing down more easily.

I just tried the engine hoist also, wow! 10 mins from on the ground to having the BH bolts in. No other way I will do it in the future.

Good news! I didn't screw up building the trans, someone else screwed up building the clutch disc. Swapped the new non-marcel disc for the old one I had been using and the rattle disappeared. The disc looked great physically, but was too tight on the input shaft. It literally had to be banged on...

I've wondered about the role of that gear. I've never seen mention of timing that gear or specific install instructions, so I'm guessing it's in there correctly. I have the same flywheel as before, and am one of those crazies that kept the balance shafts.I'd also hate to just call it noise...

The problem: rattling sound during decelI just finished the following work on the car: -2.4 build reusing all 2.0 components -new 3/4 hub,slider, shift fork & synchros -new 1/2 shift fork -Jacks 4spider diff - preloads set on tight end on stock specs - new Kevlar non-marcel disc made...

I had knock from a start that was worse when cold, better when things warmed up. During a recent rebuild I found the coolant pipe and alt mount had loose bolts. I imagine a little clutch shudder from a stop and those parts probably started rattling around triggering the knock sensor. Haven't...

The rear is a beam-type, correct? If so bend it. A little google should show you the process. On the front, slot the stut ears. If that isn't enough, trade out your strut bolts for ones of a slightly smaller diameter (7/16?). I wouldn't do that on a street car, but it will work.