...the apple 2 could play this?

Shit.

I'd like to introduce you to DEI (direct exhaust injection)You're welcome.

I bought my 2nd awd dsm while deployed, came home a few days ago and realized that the exhaust is unbearably loud; 3" turbo back; no cat, resonator, or muffler. I'm thinking about buying a dynomax super turbo, just something that sounds clean, QUIET, and won't have the in-cab drone. Opinions on...

I went through something similar; i had two roommates jump ship about 3 months into a lease. In my experience whoever's signature is on the lease is who they will go after, and they will also happilly drag you into court over 1 month's rent. If you don't pay rent for 5 months, all three of you...

Seems legit; I'm pretty sure Al Capone said something similar...

Thanks for doing the math for all of us, bud; that multiplication sh*t's super confusing... :notgood:

You're probably right; I just assumed it was someone misinterpreting "4G63".

Look at the bottom of the ad where they listed key search words:GSX 866-763-3568 Nevada Auto Wholesalers1995 128712.00 4A3AL54F9SE127484 cb06925e4f7c4f0080cc98cb2ca88823634916589640481249 cb06925e4f7c4f0080cc98cb2ca88823 Eclipse 4353 :nono: Eclipse Eclipse Mitsubishi

My last dsm came with ebay halo lights; they were junk. I say go with OEM.

MEPS was miserable; by far worse than any day in basic. I'm Active duty AF.

Exactly, finding a beautiful unmolested one is damn near impossible; nobody buys a turbocharged all wheel drive car to drive it like a minivan...

Just bought my 4th dsm: 95 TSi AWD for $3,700USD. I live near a military base, so anything with a turbo is worth it's weight in gold; it was about $300 more than I had planned to spend. Drilled/slotted rotors, 3" ex, new 7bolt, tokico adjustable susp, camper correction, energy suspension master...

Vented BOV and painted interior pieces= previous owner was a ricer. I would stay away from that one; the car probably spent its last few years being badly mistreated.

They have a guest account; email them and see if they'll let you use it.

I would suggest buying a Chilton's repair manual; they're very detailed and easy to understand. You can also try this site.

I have heard they're pretty expensive to maintain. They are sexy though.

Most of the members of these forums are happy to share their knowledge. I hyperlinked the 'search' page because this is probably one of those questions that has been asked and thouroughly answered hundreds of times; you just have to put a little effort into looking. Try searching DSMtalk...

^ I highly doubt asking for "a motor" will yield many results. It would probably be advantageous to give some basic information such as engine type, price range, preferred mileage, etc... Just my $0.02.

'Stages' aren't specific/descriptive at all, (it's useless Honduh lingo); it's mostly ebay junk thrown in a box with flames on it. "Thinking of getting a stage 17 clutch" means nothing to someone trying to give advice about a part, whereas "I have a 96 GS and was hoping to get some advice on...

Truer words have seldom been spoken.

It would be nice if the threads and writeups that are unique to those sites were saved, just in case.

I never came to this site for that reason. Too many uninformative "mad skilz yo dawg" type posts; why 'source' was so great IMO.

I'm sure, like myself, many members have migrated here from various other forums. When the great Diamond Star Gods inspired me three DSMs ago, 'source' was the only place to find solid, reliable information. It is now almost entirely locked; what happened?

ECMtuning has a pretty informative writeup on this.Also, there was a similar thread here on tuners.

Taboo speed shop vacuum diagram and removal for 1g and 2gMight be useful.

I'm assuming that the OP is aware of the locations, but for anyone who looks at this thread in the future, here is both a 1g and 2g vacuum diagram

Found a pretty good writeup, thought it might be useful.Leak-Down Test Procedure1. Remove the spark plugs and rotate the engine to put the cylinder to be tested at top dead center. Tip: insert a long screwdriver or extension into the spark plug hole and turn the engine by hand with a...

I would take a look at the Classified Section click the blue letters right here of this forum and search for something along the lines of "2gb talon bumper" I bet you'd get a pretty good idea of what you could ask based on what other people are charging for a similar item.

Ok, how about this, or this.Read Post #5"the 4th wire (white) on the 90 model is for your tach. The other 3 wires are the same as the 91-94. I've been building these kits for around 3 years now and I have never seen a diagram like that one before. I've never seen 1 & 3 and 2 & 4 ran in...

^ The above post might be a good idea, the starter silenoid could be stuck; take a hammer or large screw driver and tap (keyword: tap) it. Also it's possible that you've fried something as a result of welding. I would start poking around with a voltmeter if I were you. The 95-96 Electrical...

Try Google.Or this.There was a thread about this as well on this site.Or have a look at Post #3.

^Yup. A good clutch can easily last 200,000 miles, but you can also kill one in about 20 minutes if you keep it half engaged.

Sounds like you already got your question answered, but this might be helpful.

Sounds like it could be a CV shaft going bad. To check this: go into a parking lot, turn the steering wheel all the way to the left, drive in a circle. Then turn the steering wheel all the way to the right, drive in a circle. If you hear "click, click, click" one of your CV axles is bad.

Personally I would crack it open and inspect what you can see; they're pretty simple, and it would be peace-of-mind to know there aren't any gear/synchro pieces floating around in there. Just my $0.02

It could be a bad hub; Try spinning the wheel in question, if the hub is bad it will feel like it has sand in the bearing (not the best description, but I'm sure you get the point).

^Hate when people do that to stay in place at a light. Clutch should be fine; you can glaze the friction material if you 'ride the clutch' with regularity.

Try this.Or this.Good luck.

95-96 Electric Factory Service Manual

A good way to find a vacuum leak is to start the car, light your favorite form of tobacco (cigar/cigarette), and blow the smoke around potentially leaky vacuum lines; The engine will suck in smoke at the leak.

I bet you could pick up a set of EZOUTS, aka:bolt extractors, for around $15. If you had a drill and a Crescent wrench you could fix them yourself.

Here is the 95-96 electrical service manual, hope it helps.

I would pull your POS and NEG battery terminals, clean the posts and terminals, make sure the ground is good on the firewall behind the battery, make sure your battery water level is good (distilled only if applicable), and make sure your alternator plugs are nice and tight. Two posts above are...

Take a look at the last post

This might not apply to you 420a guys, but I remember hearing something a while back; apparently washing your engine allows water to seep down into the timing cover which shorts out the crank sensor. I would have a look if you've recently washed your engine.

How to do a Compression TestDSMtuners.com Tech writeup on how to perform a compression test.Let me google that for you-hope this helps

It seems that the vast majority use ECMlink (formerly DSMlink). the V3 lite version can be found here.

I did a 6 bolt swap on my last dsm; I kept my 7 bolt head and just wired in the 1g CAS; its fairly easy if you use THIS guide from the Magnus site, it has every bit of information about the swap you should need.

Good info.