If you must run it...punch the hotpipe through the core support/headlight bracket area right below the passenger headlight...that will save a couple feet lol.
For starters you are logging a bunch of useless stuff. Stick to RPM, timing, fuel trims, maf hz, knock sum, TPS, coolant....no need for all the random knock voltage and other things..To fix the phantom knock on my car I took the low knock multiplier and changed it slowly upwards till I...
When you're that out of whack, estimated AFR means nothing. I did a base tune on a car 2 days ago. The car came in lean as hell on both the wideband (reading "- - -") and showing 18-19AFR while driving down the road. Well obviously it wouldnt run like that so the wideband was bad...and the...
Lol. Think about it. How is that little rubber seal going to keep the cylinder pressure in? The tips of the injectors would never hold up to that. Also the injector would have to be held closed against the cylinder firing.
Sorry Gus that was unclear. The map sensor was reading funny on both SD roms and MAF roms. As soon as the boost gauge hit 0psi the MAP sensor would read 10-11psi. So I switched it to a MAF rom just to see if the car would run. We had no signal from the MAF sensor, so we probed around and found a...
What would be the point of nitriding the cams? Im actually wondering. But they are pretty low stress compared to the crank. And how often do they wear out? Cams seem like they would be the last rotating part in the engine to fail.Plus, if the crank is nitrided, and it would help the cams, I...
No don't cut a socket! Just get an oxygen sensor socket. Which you should already have anyway.Any why would you weld it to the C-clamp? That's a waste of two tools. I just duct tape it to the clamp, when its compressing it presses against the socket anyway so its not going anywhere.
Well then that's wrong also. This probably isnt all of your problem but it sounds like you basically have everything T'd off one boost/vacuum source?Should be like:BOV nipple on intake mani goes to BOV.
Boost gauge you can use the "P" port on the throttle body.
Boost controller...
Yep people dont sell that bushing for a reason. I did what you were saying, got some 3m windo-weld and covered it...but I did it only to preserve the bushing. I didn't notice any difference in stiffness. There is not enough of that metal piece that goes through the bushing sticking out to be...
My car seems to be doing something similar...I tuned it to about 11.8:1 in 30* weather. Then I went out the next day and all of a sudden its running at 11.3:1. That night, it went back to 11.7-11.8. Today its back at 11.3.I have a feeling there is something else going on though. I do have...
Have you had that problem before? Do you know why the MAF plug needed to be grounded for us to get a good MAP signal? Or am I just crazy? I dont see how that would affect it. Unless the MAP grounds out through the MAF ground?
^I was helping work on the car. We switched it back to the MAF to figure out what was up. For some reason it wasnt grounded. Grounded it, and then the MAP all of a sudden starts reading perfectly. Dunno if it was a loose connection or if that is somehow related...
Yeah, I didnt find that tank for about 3 years. I thought it was supposed to be in the engine bay. lol. I even went to the junkyard to try to pull a new washer tank off a GST...couldnt find that one either needless to say :D
The factory bolts, at least on the 2g that I know, are torque-to-yield. AKA when theyre torqued all the way to spec they will stretch out, and strength is compromised if you try to use them again. There is a length spec you can check them against, and reuse if theyre not too stretched. But for...
My car refuses to run below 212. Even on the highway with a new radiator, fresh coolant and watter wetter with two fans running full blast. It will sit right at 212 all day.
lol. Thats what I thought at first. I think he means Timing Belt....OP....good luck with the motor, thats crazy to see that valve stuck in the piston like that..
I have a 4g64 with no balance shafts. I wish I left the front one in. What I did instead was to take out the block off bolt they install when they drilll the oiling hole for the bearing, and install a longer bolt that partially blocks off the oil passage. I still have high oil pressure though...
Last time I installed one I just used the block of wood trick cause I had no oil pan on at the time. But I was wondering for installing it with the pan on, can you just leave the car in gear, and have someone stand on the brake pedal while you tighten it?
If you google "nissan k5t09" you get a bunch of links on people asking why there is a mitsu symbol on their skyline. Its probably from the early RB20s. I have a "later" RB20 and the wastegate on the turbo looks like it was made by the same guys that made those 2 bov's pictured above.If only...
2.4L 9.5:1 compression, 18psi. I use BPR8ES at .025 gap. 7s at the same gap misfire in my car over 15psi. Changing the plugs here soon and I will try new 7s with a .22 gap.
I told you foolImportant ECU Thread Links - evolutionm.netcheck that out.see: "how to log from LC-1 w/o serial cable" ...details the process of wiring into the rear o2 and patching the rom...
If its not press fit then what keeps it from slopping around? I had a replacement ball joint that I could press in by hand, and it vibrated like crazy at highway speeds.
When I installed an open dump on my car, I felt a very slight difference. I have a 2.5 inch exhaust on my car with a real muffler and a resonator. I imagine adding the dump would be about the same difference as going from a 2.5 inch exhaust to a 3 inch exhaust. So probably not alot at all unless...
Sounds like the wastegate to me. Make sure the turbo hasnt rotated if its able to. Check the v-band. And then wiggle the flapper while its still attached to the arm to see if there is any play. It should be at least tight against the seat if not pulling on it a little. If that all looks fine and...
Im gonna guess clogged fuel filter, then post maf/pre turbo leaks, then bad o2 sensor in that order. Its really actually HARD to make these cars run lean in a stockish setup.
The small holes are the 1g lifters. 2g had a bigger top hole. Which is likely what is in your head. The 3g lifters have a bigger side passage as well as the large top hole.
Is the power steering pump bracket loose? Sounds like what happened when I forgot a tensioner bolt for the pump...it started to look cockeyed and then the bracket sheared off the block. No fun.
Evoscan is just the logging program. ECUFlash is where the magic happens...lolI chose Evo swap over DSMLink. Cost was a big reason. Although I did already have the EPROM ecu. The cable cost me only $50, $20 for Evoscan, and I paid $75 for my ECUs. So I still "saved" a bunch. Bang for the...
Pressure tested "fine"? Does that mean leak free? Or just some little leaks that "shouldnt matter?" Not trying to be a dick...its just that my car has the tiniest boost leak out of the throttle body seal and I am almost sure its causing the same sort of problem.Think about it...the car is...
^There are dohc gears for a 94 galant. Which used a 2g head. So those would be the right gears. Although I am using the 4g63 gears+belt with the exhaust one half tooth above the intake.Are you using the right markings? I remember seeing that they were 4g63 gears with different markings on...
I spent over 6 months screwing with the 95 ECU and Evoscan, while talking back and forth with Hamish. It is NOT designed to work with that ECU. He started to implement it but then stopped working on it from what I can tell...everyone that has that ECU is using DSMLink so it would be catering to...
I used a VW scan tool on my 95 ecu. Worked better than evoscan. Even if you can get it to stay connected you will get 4-5 samples per second. Not worth it. Since you already have the cable maybe you should look into the Evo ecu swap.
Oh. Shit.So I have a 95 harness..and on the 95 ecu I would ground the timing connector. I have a 1g lower case on it and as well as a harmonic balancer from a galant. So I would just use a timing light.How do I set the timing now? Do I just mark my CAS and dont move it? Or is there a...
^I have had zero issues with my CAS...using a 1g "green top" cas...wired in old school rre style. I never saw any random misfires on my 95 eprom, my evo 8, or my 3g ecu. It ran smoother than stock ecu after the ecu swap. But who knows maybe my car could run better with a different CAS..Id like...
How is your ignition system? Maybe you're not getting a clean spark and its misfiring like crazy. That was my first thought.alsoThats a really naive thing to say. First thing you should do when you have a problem you cant figure out is log the car..
If you have the MAF scaling and injector scaling spot on, theres no reason you cant make the fuel tables actually represent what your car is running.I know some people put the car in full time open loop and then tune until the programmed values match the logged values. It makes things a...