Probably with some excessive machining it could fit, however it's not worth the dicking around to attempt. Kiggly or Magnus main girdle.Please see in red, not trying to flame you, just trying to keep facts straight.

The capacitor would store a charge that would soften the blow to the charging system with a spike in amplifier draw. This is a common thing in the car audio industry. Please do a little checking before posting incorrect information.

Mine is running 22.4 at idle and 7.4 under 20-30% throttle and zero boost. If I can keep 5-15% throttle it will run 12.5 or so, still not running any boost. Also my fans do not kick on, 3g ecu, ceddymods for 2g.

If you have a known good short block why don't you just put that in the car and run it until you can afford to rebuild the spun bearing engine with forged internals?

Got a pump on the way, THANKS!title says it all, need one soon and cheap(ish) or good front pump for one.Edit: 3/s, 1g fwd/awd, 2g fwd/awd and 94-96 sonata v6 share the same front pump.

Done. But I don't want to leave the good virgin 6 bolt turbo block in it.Matching DSM cam lampand an early attempt using a Honda block because it's not worth shit as scrap.So I will take any block with a hole in it to use in my DSM table.

Pending DSM driveability and work schedule I'm in.

I will take the holed 6 bolt!

I have a good block, spun a bearing I have 3 or 4 good 6 bolt cranks, just my luck. I need to get this car back together soon but I don't want to #### with a 6 bolt cause it's auto and I'm lazy. I appreciate the offer, I will keep you in mind if a crank is not available.nobody has one?

Found one! Thanks.I need a good used 7 bolt crank or known good 2g short block. Not looking to spend a ton, don't want built blocks (unless its so cheap I can't say no) let me know what you have, I can PM phone number.Oliver (yes I know it says Bangor Maine on my profile but I am in PA)

The narrow bellhousing is on DSM's, Mighty Max/D50, Starion/Conquest (some Colt Vista's I think) had the wider bellhousing.

DSM= Daily Spending Money

Use a straight edge to make sure. I have seen this issue a lot with the SBR/Kinetic FMIC's and they look fine on the car.

Depends on condition and how badly you need them. Value is what they are worth to you.

I never said they were a bad company. All I said is that they were Chinese parts. They are decent for a bargain here and there and make some decent stuff (pretty hard to fubar a pipe), but not my favorite company for parts.

Looks like Megan Racing to me (still Chinese)

Is the TB elbow flange warped?

I have one off and ready to go if either of you still need one.

Homer City.

This, but my driveway. I'll be out digging the cliff.

Even if they did, do you have the proper tools to balance this new wheel on your current turbo?

When you insure it you give the vin number, this will tell you what trim level it is. This happened with a Del Slow SI that I was trying to pass off as a base model for cheaper insurance. I was a thinker when I was young......:ohdamn:

What I meant was they are interchangeable between years, not with each other. Sorry for the confusion.

That exhaust manifold stud goes into an oil galley IIRC. It may be leaking oil out around the threads.

MD 156604 orange pulley MD 129355 blue pulley MD 164533 6 bolt hyd. tensioner MD 308586 1g 7 bolt hyd tensioner MD 308587 early 95 hyd tensioner *not common, only seen one personally* MD 308086 later 2g hyd tensioner MD 326059 timing belt MIT 1840A006 2g trigger plate MD 115976 6 bolt balance...

Mitsu PN for the pulleys are the same 1g and 2g.

Check for boost leaks

1g trigger plate (6b and 7b) is different than 2g, but all your pulleys and sprockets will be the same (except 95-96 intake cam gear due to the CAS)

Heat soak, more chance of detonation (knock). You should be able to get a stock SMIC for less than $50.

Why did you create a second thread for the same issue? This only clutters up the forum.

Magnecor

Same pulley, but the hydraulic tensioner is different you have a 6 bolt and 2 different options for 7 bolt.

Highlighted part in red is ONLY true for very late 98 (probably 99 model year with 98 build date) and 99 cars. You would need to pull the pan or check the vin with mitsu to verify.

It will still have end play, but it *should be* within spec.

Not a definite solution, but certainly would be an easy fix.

Any chance a starter bolt backed out? grab the starter and see if it's loose.

Yes, re-time it.

DSM = Don't Start Modifying.

Is your MAS plugged in? Also check for boost leaks.

Well, I placed the order tonight. We will see how it goes.

Thats why I would feel comfortable buying from them. I just wanted a feeler if anyone has any reviews of them.Yeah, the strip club got shut down....

I don't work there any more and we are not on the best of terms at the moment. If more details are needed PM me.

So it's about time for me to get a new clutch and I was wondering if anyone has anything about Kenny Powers Motorsports I am open to feedback. The site is a little rough, but I like the "no BS" attitude they seem to have.Any information on this company is appreciated.

Ground, Fuse, Fuseable link, ect. did you hook the ground back up to the block?

Yes, it fits.

I had a similar issue with mine and the cable itself was corroded and nasty enough so I just had to replace it. I am assuming you are talking the one that is about 8 inches long from the battery to the fire wall. I know it sounds like a stupid thing to happen, but its a cheap fix if it works.

See comments in red.

ACT 2600 with a street disk.

You have a 2g head, thats not an issue.Same belt, just a different hydraulic tensioner.

Boost leak. Check it and report back.Edit, maybe I misread that, are you still having a no power issue?