Turn the MBC counter-clockwise to reduce boost. You will have to drive to test the boost level. Keep re-trying until you reach the desired boost level. You won't have to tune to run less boost. I'm assuming the car still has the stock, un-tuned ecu.
I hear you about working for someone else. I wouldn't mind having my own car wash. It looks like fun work. There's a guy who owns one of the local car washes and he's out there everyday keeping the place clean and emptying the money. When he's done, he gets on his Harley and drive home...
Get yourself a Mitsubishi pcv valve for your car, they are designed for boost. The cheap auto store pcv valves aren't designed to hold back boost and will leak. I don't know about that oil leak. It's weird how it leaks while the car is idling. Something may be warped.
Nice ride. The two-tone Talon's are hard to find these days. They were the upper models of the Talon's. That is a super deal, almost free. I see non-running shells that sell for more than that.
It you can't figure it out, the tranny will have to be dropped to get a better look. It could be something like a broken spring from the pressure plate causing the pedal to bind.
That's a nice 940 you got there. The Ecmlink setup is great. I use to have a clean 240 about 7 years ago. Before I bought my first DSM a couple years ago, I was looking for a RWD turbo Volvo. I never found a good one so, I bought an Eclipse. Keep us updated.
I second the Baja idea. Just have fun with it. Fixing it up would not be very cost effective since it seems like it would cost more than it's worth. How in the world did that 7 year old car get in such terrible condition?
That was a great deal. The wheels alone could probably sell for atleast $120. I wonder why someone put a 2g engine in there? You say the compression numbers vary from 120 to 160? If so, something is wrong. That is too wide of a variation between the cylinders. There could be something...
Leave the clip ("pin") in. You will pull it after you install it and correctly set the timing (see instructions at the link below). By tool, I'm guessing you mean the threaded rod? It's not needed but, if you mess up, you will have to remove the tensioner and slowing push the rod back in with...
I used quiksteel putty on one FIAV I blocked and I blocked off another FIAV by screwing the spring in all the way. My idle held perfect using both methods. No plate needed.
It should fit with some type of spacers or washers to make up for the extra space. It may also work with the shorter non turbo bolts and studs, but I'm sure positive.Correct. The 91-94 cars have the bov on the bottom of the stock piping. The 90's have the bov on top of the stock piping.
I saw these on ebay. They use to be $120 when I first saw them. They are a good deal compared to some of the other high priced UICP's. I am also awaiting fitment pics.
That sucks. These type of things happen a lot when dealing with cars. I have spent money on other cars in the past only for it to be a cheap sensor or something else simple. Even troubleshooting didn't pinpoint the exact problem.
The 94-95's Stangs may be slow in stock form but, there's more engine options for them than the 96+. That's because it's the old school small block configuration. The newer 4.6's are good, reliable engines and respond to mods pretty well but, they are super wide and are a little harder to deal...
I saw an earlier post about his spark plugs being wet. However, he said that his cas didn't cause the injectors to click. I assumed that meant the injectors weren't spraying. He was also questioning the operation of his mpi relay.
If you are certain the fuel pump is turning on when you crank the car, I'd say the MPI is good. Atleast part of it is.Does the MPI click after you turn off the ignition? It should, after a few seconds.
Are you certain that fuel is getting to the rail?
If the fuel injectors aren't...
Do you have an aftermarket boost gauge? The boost may be creeping up higher than 10 psi. Is there an aftermarket exhaust on the car? It shouldn't be hitting fuel cut with that low of boost. You could also have a vacuum leak somewhere. Just a couple ideas.
It's not a bad looking car and has a lot of safety options. Currently, the police Charger is the best performer. However, with the return of the RWD V8 police Caprice, there will be a lot of competition among police cars.
It looks like an AWD one but, it looks like it may have been modified. The small section near the front of the down pipe looks like it was added in. I'm thinking if the mid-pipe bolted up, it must be the correct one. Maybe everything will fit better with the downpipe connected.
It's definitely not a FWD exhaust, because it's a totally different shape and wouldn't bolt up. That downpipe does look like an Apexi though. Does the muffler say Apexi on it? Maybe the piping is Apexi and the muffler is a different one added later.
I just don't understand how they work at an auto parts store but, don't even know about the most common auto brands. I also dislike when they don't listen to what you say and question it.
I've used that method on my 1g. However, I leave the pin in until I'm done. After turning the engine over by hand, I let it sit for 15 minutes then check the gap. If the pin still moves freely, I remove the pin. That way, if I messed up somehow, I wouldn't have to waste a lot of time...
If the gasket is bad, oil can slip by the bolts and pool in the spark plug galley. If the valve cover is cracked, the same thing will happen. The crack may not be visible but may leak under boost. Also, a warped valve cover will leak too. I had a warped valve cover that was leaking pretty...
So, you are saying it does this when you start your car no matter if it's fully warmed or completely cooled? It could be something like the o2 sensor, spark plugs or maybe even the coolant temp sensor. But, if it does this for exactly 2:37, it's kinda hard to pinpoint. Especially, if this...
Does it need an ecu chip or the whole ecu? The only way it would need just a chip is if the ecu was socketed for a chip and it was removed for some reason. Do you have any more details or information from the owner about this issue?
If you want a turbo car, it may be best to leave the NT alone and wait until you can get a Turbo version. I know it will be hard to wait but, it will be worth it. It's best to start off with what you want than to spend money on something else only to get the turbo car later. You could spend...
It won't be cheap. I'd say more than $1000. You'll have to call around to local shops to get an accurate quote. Try to find a shop that fixes DSM's. That way, you won't have to worry about it not being fixed correctly.
I have 225/50-16's on my car right now. Stock 1g wheels and no clearance issues. I'm at stock height and plan to lower it a little with the same setup.
I guess it depends on the business. Some will charge you for a single bolt and some will let you have certain parts for free. It seems like the big name yards charge more than the small time local yard. There's only a couple to choose from here. The Pick n pull is very expensive with a lot...