Thanks, the name fits, even though I need to throw some more boost in it. I mostly just call it the shitbox now lol (that probably won't make it through the swear filter, can't remember if this forum has one or not). I was fortunate enough to grab the IG handle awdshitbox before some Subaru guy...

The local guys are cannibals, hilariously with all of the stuff they part out... very few of their cars run lol

Ah, thought it looked familiar. A couple of local guys were talking about buying it for parts.

Hello from Orlando, I remember seeing this car posted for sale at some point. Looks like you're making good progress.

Dyno Sheet w/spike

Project90Talon updated Boost JunkieView updates to this DSM profile...

What did the car end up making?

I still send people here or tell them to search the forums. If they get twisted about getting sent a link then I start trolling and/or stop helping them altogether.

Project90Talon updated Boost JunkieView updates to this DSM profile...

I've been ripping around on my setup then my wastegate failed. Spool is good, pulls like a freight train up top and continues to pull progressively harder up the RPM range. Overall I like it, should be around 600 pretty easily. Very streetable with the AGP T3 housing, the party starts around 4K...

Car starts and drives again. Attempted a 340 double pumper setup using the newer e85 compatible Aeromotive 340s, which seem to have failed (check/relief valves is my guess). Checked AFPR with compressed air in vacuum line and kinking the return to see if fuel pressure would rise, it did in both...

I just got my car started yesterday, still waiting for a clutch though. I'll have results in April or May.

Thanks, agreed on the PTE quality. I stay away from those. (Almost got nailed with a turbine wheel (from a 7285 IIRC) that shot out of a car at WCF in Maryland while in line to get beer) I wanted something durable, had a broad powerband and was cost effective. Borg seemed to be the way to go...

My setup should be driving in a week or two. Won't be able to have fun until April though since a certain clutch company started the year with 0 inventory on the 6 bolt awd twin discs.

68mm wheel, .82 AGP T3 housing. Here's the P/N for my exact turbo: 13009097056. Supposedly flows around 75lbs/min (assuming that is in a twin scroll t4 housing), here's a link to AGP (not where I got mine nor what I paid): https://agpturbo.com/borg-warner-s362sx-e-62-68-13009097056/

Project90Talon updated Boost JunkieView updates to this DSM profile...

New pictures and info added.

I'm in the process of putting a 362sx-e on my car. I'll let you know how it works out.

Update: The GT3582R popped a couple weeks ago. I only got one pull out of it on the t3 setup flowing 46lbs/min at 6198rpm in 2nd gear with 1800rpm to go. During the downtime I am switching to a Borg Warner S362SX-E that will be utilizing the AGP .82 t3 housing along with switching to e85. I'll...

Welcome and have patience with it.

Project90Talon updated Boost JunkieView updates to this DSM profile...

Rivsu or Hi-Rev can get them for you. All you need to do is call is ask. Their current inventory doesn't show any but a couple will pop up in time.

It pulls pretty well, I'm just waiting to get the t3 setup on so that I can get more out of the turbo. It squats hard enough to reset the gas gauge. With the leaks fixed I would ballpark it somewhere between 420-450whp.

Thanks, I daily drove the car for a couple years, didn't post the dyno sheet since I blew open my egr blockoff gasket and a 1/4" hole in my old fmic. Made 415whp on pump gas with those leaks though.

Project90Talon submitted a new DSM Profile :Boost JunkieRead more about this vehicle here...

Still messing with Inj deadtime, at 415 now and have a close to steady afr at idle on the stock VE table while maintaining .25g afpr. I'll update again as I decrease it (next couple days off from work, tinker time).EDIT:Found that these are finally available again (as of a couple weeks...

Ok. Well the car barely started and a magical CEL appeared. Plugged in the laptop and whaddaya know, it's the sensor. I drove to work and my coolant temp was -74, I think it's a safe bet the sensor finally went.Edit: called JNZ, will be ordering a new pigtail when they come in.

When did they add that connector to inventory? Last time I checked a few months ago they had every connector but that one. If they have it I'll look into it.

Car had a lean startup tonight, so I figured the CTS was on the fritz again since it was having trouble idling until it went into closed loop. I just find it odd that it starts lean rather than rich due to a CTS problem(when the problem occurs). Investigated wiring to CTS, peeled back the rubber...

It should be noted that the deadtimes posted on the Link wiki are general deadtimes, each car is going to use slightly different deadtimes. I just think that the 450ms deadtime for the PTE 1000s is wrong if some are running a deadtime with a greater than 100ms difference.Noted.In other news...

I'm running the equivalent of 4ga with a 200a inline fuse from the alt post to the battery post and haven't had any issues with fires or any other nonsense of that nature yet.I've seen deadtimes for these injectors as low as 315ms, I'll mess with my settings throughout the week. My gut is...

I managed to get my hands on a factory connector a couple months ago with good connections at the plug. Thought about sticking an eyeglass screwdriver in and bending the contacts tighter. Running errands and should have time to tinker later.

Replaced the entire Engine/ECU wiring harness a couple weeks ago. Found that one of the retaining clips in the ECU plug had broken and one of the power wires could disconnect itself at will, of course I found that after swapping the harness. I'm sure there were other problems.Voltage is stable...

Swapped PTU and tried another coil yesterday, no luck. Car died four times within 3/4 of a mile. Parked and towed it. In the process of changing the wiring harness now.

Just checked a log with the "KeyOn" and "KeyStart" values displayed, the KeyOn value remains on even through the voltage drops.Yeah, the two are not welded together. Logs attached. The second log has a big drop at 274.262 seconds, recovers, and ends up shutting itself off at the end, that was...

Correct, though it used to restart the first time, every time. I'll check it tomorrow, I'm going to kick my own ass if that is the issue or there is a loose connection there.I'm using a rewound 160amp Saturn-style (cs130) alternator that has a self-exciting alternator, is configured for...

I went through five of those before getting the alt I have now, a motorcity reman cs130 single-wire rewound for 160a output. I get 14.5v at the post and 14.3-4v at the battery post, belt is on very tight and not slipping. Problem exists even when only running on battery power, tried that a few...

There is no drain, I have 12.4-12.6 at the battery with the key on but not running, every time. Checking for shorts this weekend. There is no turbo timer, I am the turbo timer. Which ignition switch? The cylinder itself or the MPI? I have changed the MPI 3 times with no change. I have tested the...

Many months and the issue has not been resolved. Have changed the CAS, 3 MPI relays, tried a friend's ecu (known to be good). I cleaned up all the grounds coming from the battery, cleaned the posts and replaced the terminals. Car ran fine for three days but the problem came back worse than ever...

It was the battery. Only a year and a half old but couldn't even crank the car today.

Knows aforementioned '97 is black.

Has a 90 AWD?

I wouldn't think that I could've gotten 14.5v on thr first startup after the alternator install if the fuse was blown. Alternator passes at the post. Will read the link about shorts.

Looked at it, declared war, went to find my throwing wrenches.

Hey,So for the last month and a half I have been battling some unknown electrical problem. Battery shows 12.6v in link when ignition is switched on, alternator relay has been changed, 3 remanufactured (advance) alternators have been on the car and last night I swapped to a Saturn alternator...

A 40-44MM WG would suffice. Your choice as to brand and your impressions on the reviews of each.

How high? I daily 21psi.

I run a 40MM Synapse WG with my E316G and it does the job well enough for me, the hardest part was messing around with all of the vacuum settings. They also make a 50MM for the larger turbos.