I seem to be having some shifting issues and I was wondering if anyone can give me some suggestions on what to check/adjust. The car is a 95 with a fairly new trans, >10000 miles. I recently did the blue wire mod and have link activating a relay above 6000rpm and above 90% throttle. With the...
My 3.2 did exactly the same thing except it completely blew apart. One of the puck arms even broke off and went between my pp and the flywheel, which in turn cracked the tranny in three spots. When I called about warranty, I insisted that they send me a 4.3 as a replacement. They sent me the...
I have a 97 Talon awd and it has about 96000 miles on it. I purchased the car with about 90000 miles on it and it always kinda acted funny when downshifting from 3rd/D to 2nd. When I say acted funny, I mean it didn't seem to want to engage when it shifted down. The engine would rev up and down a...
The only thing I can suggest is to clean your power transistor plug and terminal. My tach started bouncing all around in the summer and it turned out that the power transistor plug was all green and corroded. I realize those aren't your symptoms, but its just something easy to try.
I have had the same battle as you ever since I started modding my fwd. As of this past summer I could sometimes get traction in 2nd gear. I had a Quaife lsd installed when my transmission was built, and that helped a lot for torque steer and helped a little for traction. Next on my journey to...
I have tried lots of synthetics in my car, royal purple, castrol syntec, penzoil platinum, and now mobil 1. After putting mobil 1 in my car, I will no longer run anything else. Why you ask, because of oil pressure at idle. I have never ran anything but 10w-30 in my car and mobil 1 has the...
The whole reason for a rising rate fpr is to keep the same pressure on the injectors at all times. When there is pressure in the manifold(boost), it acts as a force on the tip of the injectors. So what the fpr does is add pressure to the fuel side of the injectors to keep the overall pressure...
I installed a set of delta 272 cams in my car this past weekend, and since the install I have had some idle issues. To set the idle, I grounded the plug in the engine compartment and left my logger hooked up. I set it to about 800 rpm with the BISS screw. I also decided to check the timing(with...
What are your opinions on running a set of delta 264 cams in a 2g auto? The car has a 14b, 3" exhaust, and that is pretty much it. My brother is looking to get a little more out of his dsm without having to buy an afc or dsmlink.
I have the 10% taller fifth gear in my car and I really like it. Before the taller 5th gear I would go 60 mph at 2500 rpm and now I go 75 mph at 2500 rpm. It has also made a significant improvement in my fuel economy. Before the upgrade I would get 29 mpg and now I get 36 mpg(strictly highway).
When I installed the 2g mas on my car I used the 1g intake and my 1g k&n air filter. All I did was heat up the rubber intake with a heat gun a stretch it onto the 2g maf. Next I made the filter adapter out of aluminum, this is very similar to the dejon adapter and that's where I got the idea.
My evo III 16g creeps to about 22psi. I has been extensively ported, but still continues to creep. I am now going to go with an external wastegate, then the problem will be fixed.
I am very happy with my Mahle pistons. They are a great choice if your car is a dd because of the high silicon content in the material. This means that you don't have to worry to much about piston slap. I haven't had any problems with mine, and I have about 10000 miles on them.
A logger is a device that allows you to view and log engine data. A palm or a laptop is usually used, then its hooked up to the obd2 port in your car. You will also need to download or buy a software that will allow you to do this.
I also forgot to add that I first noticed the noise after I changed my front struts, I don't know if that has anything to do with it, but anything is possible.
Recently my car has developed a ticking noise when I am at wot and above like 15psi of boost. I can only hear is for a very short period of time then my exhaust noise takes over, and I can no longer hear it. Also I wanted to add that it doesn't make this noise if I free rev the engine, just...
I think im going to try and smooth it out the best I can then use it. I also sent an email to Jack's trans asking him what he thought about the situation.
Well I was driving my car yesterday and my fidanza 3.2 clutch pretty much exploded, and it mushroomed the TOB collar a bit. Can I file off the mushroom and continue using my tranny? This is practically a brand new Jacks Racing Trans and the clutch is almost new aswell. Any help would be greatly...
I recently bought a 1992 Talon TSI fwd and just finished rebuilding the engine. I didnt look into the tranny at all so I do not know what it has, but as far as I know the car was completely stock when I bought it. Anyways I decided to see how well it could do a brake stand the other day and it...
Is there any way I could stop this, or at least make it a bit better. Not being able to go above 4000rpm in first really sucks. I don't have a stock fuel system either, I have a 225lph pump, aeromotive afpr, 650cc fic's, and its controlled by an afc neo.
I have done a boost leak test and there isn't any. The wiring to my maf is correct and I know this becuase I followed vfaq's instructions. Is there anything else it could be?
Also, I wanted to add that the car only builds about 10 psi of boost in first gear and I have it tuned for 20 psi. I know this is normal due to first gear being such a low gear ratio, but could this be causing my problem? Could it be a bad MAF?
My car sputters very bad in first gear when at wot. I can rev it as high as I was at low throttle but as soon as I go wot then the engine just starts sputtering like crazy. It does not do this is any other gears. Any help to why my car may be doing this would be greatly appriciated.
Well according to my o2 sensor my car is running lean, becuase its at .85v at wot. But from my experiences working on v8's, I would say the car is running rich. That is why I am thinking about getting it dyno tuned, and becuase I don't have a wideband. I was asking for help based on my logs that...
My fuel pressure is now set at 37 psi and the reason I have my timing set to 0 is to try and get rid of knock when it boost creeps to 20psi, but I'm still getting alot of knock. Do you think this could just be phantom knock?
I finally got around to checking to see if my fuel pressure is rising 1:1 and it is. I also checked for boost leaks and there are none except the bov. My o2 sensor is a bosch and it maybe has 2000 miles on it. Oh and with my upper rpm settings on my afc set to 0 the duty cycle is 101% but it is...
I know it was running extremely rich because there was a cloud of black smoke behind me and the car would barely run. What do you suggest I do about my fuel pressure? Get a line and run it up to the hood?
Yes I have ported it in the right spot, I know that the exhaust gasses need to be directed towards the wastegate and yes I have a fuel pressure gauge on my afpr and it is set to 43 psi(with line off). I lowered my high setttings way down and now above 4500 they are all at +1 but i still had to...
Ok I have finally got an update. I just finished putting my turbo back in may car after porting it for the second time, and my car still boost creeps to 20psi. So this thing is still creeping that high even with an extended wastegate actuator and alot of porting and polishing. Do you think that...
I have already ported my turbo and yesterday I tryed to extend the wastegate accuallor housing as per the other post on the forum. It may have helped a little bit but not too much. I am thinking that maybe i should pull out my turbo and try to port it some more, but I thought that I already...
So I guess I'm going to be buying an external wastegate. I realize that my car should be running way rich, but even my low settings are at -9 +2 +2 0 0 0 0. I am trying to tune using my dataloggers o2 trims and fuel trims.