LOL, That website seems super old!

Any updates?

Thats a cool little picture, does it apply in all cases? Including a modified car?

Ask if its a true MHI turbo, and for better pictures. The pictures are too crappy to see the numbers.

It looks good, you should remove material to make sure the wastegate opens all the way. This does not take long, and it worked out when I did it.

The filter is just a filter, like Gravedigger said it wont matter as long as you keep stock mas, assuming your intake is stock.

Thanks snowborder, i was having trouble with search, you did all the work for me :)

I know of someone that decided a tranny from autozone was a good deal wasted 2k+ on it. I tried telling him about Shep, TRE, Jacks but he wouldn't' have it. He didn't care apparently the autozone tranny is better. LOL

I had leaks post maf, that were making me stall.

My BOV fluttered tons when I had that line tapped for my gauge :( it was just a gauge but made a difference when I moved it out.

Idk if its bad but I use my hand brake. I engage the brake so it moves back a bit but stays put. I put car in gear and then slip out the clutch till the car want to move forward then just let brake out. Works every time.I only Do this when a car is very close to me, or the hill is steep.

What have you done? Have you tried putting gas in tank?

The oring like troppo loungo said... mine was installed improperly and I kept having issues, I blamed an aeromotive AFPR on all my issues. Well a few weeks ago I finally decided to make things right. I took out the sending unit and sure enough the o ring was installed wrong. So I fixed things up...

exhausttunersnation.com, its run by a guy on the GVR4.org forums, he has most of the GVR4 specific parts.

Mine would pop and pull the timing, I fixed boost leaks, I changed wires/plugs. The car would jerk and not do much :( it was really annoying

I had a similar problem! My problem was a simple o-ring at the fuel pump. I have a walbro 255hp, finally changed it this past weekend and it made a world of a difference!

Its not going to be too bad... Just add the resonatorI haven't driven without one but I bet it would be nice to have it.

I have always wondered the same thing! I hope someone has a figure!OEM is usually always the best! I wanted to know the same thing so I can figure out if I can replace the stocker with 14" slim fan plus a 10" or 12" also...

like the other gvr4 dude said register on the Galantvr4.com forums :DNice deal I got mine for bit more around 900 bucks, and its been my daily driver for about 2years now

clicky for mandrel bendsTheres a faq on this site somewhere, and it links you to there

Id go but i wont be in SA till about the 24th :(

Could it be a wheel bearing?

Add arp's to listoh also add injectors.... and your going make sure everything is ready for the abuse :)

Just unbolt the lines and have a towel around when you have to separate the line from the fuel rail.

That breather might be the problem... isn't it a way to relieve excess blowby?

I guess I have bad gas :)Ive been needing to change my filter every 10k miles... and the car feels better when I do. I changed it xmas about 8k miles ago :(major rusto problems...Oh my contribution to this thread is that if you have a sending unit like me you will need to change out that...

Just use lots of RTV and let it sit for a few minutes then put that up...

Aren't the fuel pumps of the 3000gt sl the same?

You should recirculate that BOV...searched "tap MBC into BOV line" came up with this.clicky

Can you use any sparklers or do you have to get the metal ones? I was told that you couldn't use the wooden ones.

I got a NEW xcase last year when i took mine in. :) New xcase bolts and such.

ohh why not just get a keydiver chip/eprom ecu?

Do it with a welder :) I haven't tried it but it would be cool...GalantVR-4.org: How to Remove broken bolts With Welder

Just buy a better 14b... The 14bs are cheap. It would suck if that thing spills its guts on you, and leaves you stranded.

12's in a N/t is going to be fun... I was reading about his yesterday and well the cheap bolt ons are what give most power i.e. intake/exhaust.I think the fastest N/t is in the 13's

Thats what I heard, but when its rewired. :)

hood vents, and a fan switch are just band-aids... You might want to drain and flush that coolant system, and take that radiator to a shop and have them flush it out. Switch that thermostat as it might be the culprit (PN:MD997607 is 180* thermostat, it might be for 1g only not sure...)...

There is no "best" FMIC setup for your application, most people will recommend one brand or another. From what i've read the PR kit is a great kit for the money; that and you'll be supporting a vendor! So its a Win-Win. :)

It says you drive a N/T and you want to rebuild the 4g63t. Is the 4g63t for your car? Or are you rebuilding it for your friend.

Yea I hate you 2g guys... have cheap Ebay core kits... :)It saves a headache from having to "piece" together a kit.

Check all your hose connections make sure they are on tight. What color is the water if you look at coolant? If that doesn't solve anything you might want to replace that last piece in the puzzle.

I don't know much about the subject but if it helps, neither my boost nor my speedo move when the key is turned to "on".Is it the original gauge? What kind of boost gauge is it?The cel lights usually light up then after a few seconds turn off... and only my anti lock brake stays on, but...

I live in San Antonio...close enough :)

Every car is different... no two cars will be the same... so you can use other peoples numbers as rough estimates at best...

So then the stock hose has a valve in it?

Thats why i went for the small battery for that reason. :)

ooh... well i cant help you with that :(but you could get the smaller hc600Weight: 14 lbs. Ah: 20 Dimensions: 7" x 3" x 6.5" US $108.99 shippedsmall and has more amp hours... :)

Not a direct answer per se but it might help you get a cheaper Sealed battery.I got this battery on ebay. It is a Kinetic hc800 battery, I bought it because it looks better on paper and it was a little cheaper plus it also has more amp hours which I have no idea what they do but more is...

Just to add to this, the cranks should be the same :)

I was thinking vc gasket but thats way too much oil... isnt there an oil passage by one of the exhaust mani studs?