OBDII port under dash > laptopNo offence if your having trouble plugging in the cable you may want to not try tune your own motor.

Just 93 pump gasThis is a video of now Just whatever - YouTubeBefore Talon hard starting - YouTubeI'm thinking this might be as good as I can get it :ohdamn:

42.5psi, pump is a Walbro 190 I have it rewired, I also have it on a toggle switch so I can turn it on and off manuallyYes

My car has a hard time starting, I have to crank it at least 3 or 4 times before it will start, things I've done so far- BLT - Change from COP back to stock coil pack/wires/ new plugs - cleaned MAF - fuelab AFR - new CTS - rebuilt the throttle body/ new seals/ gaskets & FIAV bypass...

As soon as I have my boost leak tester back i'll post results, almost sounds like a bad ISC from reading those links.

I'm trying to iron out some bugs, I took the car out for the first real drive to grab a log for the Mafcomp Adjust, the idle is pretty good now but when I put the car in park it starts reving up to 2500 then cuts out and drops back down, as soon as I shift into drive idle is perfect at around...

So I'm having some overheating issues I'm in the process of trying to figure it out and while I wait on parts I figured I'll check the thermostat. Now the question, is the hole in the thermostat either supposed to face toward the front or the back of the engine on a 2G? Or doesn't it matter?

I've been working on getting the bugs out of my build, so I took it for a quick pull up my street because the car is not legal to go do a real one on the highway. It seems to run fine and pull hard but after going WOT the check engine light came on.I looked in the log and I don't see any...

Roof rack on a mustang? Thats not hardcore JDM ROFL

I loaded in the new file, car fired right up I did have to un-check "lock front O2 voltage"Idle is nice now but my AirflowPerRev is really high but the fuel looks good. Any help for the AirflowPerRev?

Thanks, I'll give this a try. The wideband gauge does match what is reading in link.The only numbers I see on the injectors are 08799, which seems to match PTE 680s for hondas. I guess I need new injectors.

You can use some RTV on the inside of the coupler, this will help it stay stuck.

I've got my car to the point of where it idles good, my only concern is the fuel settings global fuel is at -3.1% and deadtime is 510 with 640cc injectors and base fuel pressure of 42.6psi, is this normal? link calculates -29.7 but the idle is very lean. when set at that.Basic fuel mods are...

Going to be going with black and purple :D

Post a log. Raising deadtime will lower CombindedFT.

swapplugwires [ECMTuning - wiki]Would help to post a log also

Haha sure, but don't know if my back can take it. ROFL

That sounds possible I'll have to look and see if I can remove the fan separately... not enjoying life right now :ohdamn:

So is this possible without pulling the dash? I just put the interior back together and don't want to have to remove the dash now if I can some how open the box in the car

Isn't the heater core on the passenger side under the dash? :confused: I removed the glove box and the noise when its on is coming from right thereI'm hoping theres a way to get into it without pulling the dash :banghead:

Thanks for the help, I really like to try figure things out rather then asking for help all the time. :)Anything I can do about the hard starts, or will I just have to teach the wife how to give it some gas :hellyeah:I'm guessing I have a fuel pressure issue to deal with next

Can I open It up to clean it out without removing it for the car? I think something made a nest in it while the car was sitting outside for a while.I looked and can only find one clip on the front :confused:

I believe it is a bypass plate, it was like it when I bought the car Yeah I think I might need to play with the BISS some more to try bring it down? I was pretty close until I was trying to get the ISCPosition closer to 30 at idleI also noticed since I enabled the narrowband sim the car...

Thanks, I forgot to mention I have the lite version I did just make sure it was up to date though.I played with the settings and manged to get the wideband in link logging almost exactly the same as on the gauge, let me know how I'm looking now

So i just setup my narrowband simulation in ECMlink, I've read though the wiki, and the threads on here but I'm still confused if its working correctly. Is the AFRaitoEst supposed to be close or match what is displayed on the gauge or is it supposed to match whats being logged in Link?Right...

You need to set it to 43.5 with the car running and the vacuum line disconnected.

I would start by replacing the O2.

First off your target idle is set to high, your idle switch isn't working so enable simulate idle switch from TPS. you also want to log combinedFT, also your front O2 isn't cycling like it should (not working?)Follow this demo http://www.ecmtuning.com/demos/initialsetup.htmlshould get...

You want to lower it because the ECU is taking away fuel at -7 to -11%Start with the Maf compensation until your around 0.25 on AirflowPerRev at idle when fully warmed up, once thats right play with the deadtime until combined FT is as close to 0% as possible. Once thats setup you can start...

From what I see in the log AirflowPerRev is around 0.38 you need to aim for 0.25 at idle adjust the maf comp to try lower it, also combinedFT seems to be way off, try remove the deadtime see if that gets you closer to 0% at idleAlso try set your base target idle around 900 I'm also an...

Thanks, Its still a work in progress

Where did you get the headliner material? :thumb:

How did you get the car that high on jack stands?!

Basic ComcastGetting over 30mbs at work though :thumb:

Nice pictures, The D40 is a nice camera. What exhaust are you running I like the look of it.