So I decided to help my brother with his 420 car as it's been sitting for over a year now with a broken timing belt. He stopped because he broke a bracket and I ended up pulling the exhaust and head for him today. I looked up the bracket on ebay and I'm not 100% if he needs a new one or can...
It's all good. Been collecting parts, now need:1: SAFC and/or DSMLink, have ECU, just need chip. Also interested in a burnt chip if anybody still does that.2: Injectors
According to Mitchell, AWD clutch fork job is 6.3hours, 6.0hours for FWD. I do my own work but $90/hr seems like the high end for shops around here. I do work out of my yard for a few people and I charge $60/hr. You should just do it yourself, I changed a clutch at the shootout in the hotel...
With one of the spokes cracked, the structural integrity of the wheel is compromised and it can no longer perform as designed. It might be fine or you could have a catastrophic failure at highway speeds. Pass on those bad boys
It's a problem if you want to run them like that. There are shops that can fix some pretty wild wheel damage but it costs. Unless they were rare/expensive aftermarket wheels, I'd just look for a single stocker in a junkyard.
I sold my green 2g that I brought to the last meet but it's still local, got a 92 vr4 in stock form for now but I've been wanting to dyno it before I start doing stuff to get a nice baseline. Hope we get some interest in this. I know Tom (the underdog) has his vr4 and I bet he'd come out too.
Nightshades also comes off easily with bleach white or paint thinner. Nobody has mentioned it but after restoring your headlights it's good to spray a couple coats of clear on them, if you don't they will yellow back out over and over again.
Looking for a few parts for my Galant and trying to find stuff locally. Hit me up!1: 6 bolt block
2: SAFC
3: Bigger injectors (750cc-1000cc)
4: Aftermarket fuel pump
5: 2g maf
Man I want that car soooo bad. I immediately put my 2g up for sale on craiglist when I saw it. Hopefully I can sell it because I'd love to be driving that.
Thanks. It looks extremely fragile, especially when you get to look at that cutaway type of view. I think with the bottom braced that well it won't really need any reinforcement up top. Of course if I'm wrong, I'm going to find out the hard way haha. If it keeps breaking though, I'll start...
I think if I keep racing it offroad I'm going to go ahead and brace the front and back on the left and right so I don't run into this problem again. I don't think the upper control mounts were designed with this kind of abuse in mind.
Thanks man, when it happened I was really dumbstruck. This is the first time I've had a problem with a car that wasn't easily fixed by a trip to the parts store so I'm really pleased with how it turned out. The camber issue is solely because of the eibach drop springs. At least that's what I...
I have been rallycrossing my car in SCCA sanctioned races for the last few months and the offroading has been beating up my suspension. I broke a ball joint on the front lateral link my first time which was easy to fix. Last week though, I had a catastrophic upper control arm failure. I searched...
I like the way it looks. Like I mentioned I'm not done yet, still gonna do another gallon so four coats or so and then some gloss. After that I'm gonna peel it 100% and then do my door and window trim in black. I peeled most of the rest from around the windshield after the pics though.
I plasti dipped my green car because I was sick of my clearcoat mess and I didn't want to drop big money on a new paint job. Used three gallons of white and bought a bottle of the pre dip spray. After seeing how it turned out I'm planning on buying one more gallon of white and a gallon of the...
I've never heard of top performance but I had my car tuned at LNS on Lovell Rd in Knox. They have an awd mustang dyno and the guy that owns the place is no s**t a retired NASA engineer so if he hasn't tuned your particular system before be sure that he can figure it out pretty damn quick. They...
I hate to resurrect an old thread but DAMN I wish I had known about this. I need to keep up with the local thread I guess. I drill less than two miles from here every month. I'll be at the next one for sure.
If you guys get a meet goin on I'd definitely be down. The blue bomber is finally running again after more than a year down. I just need to get it to LNS to get a fine tune put on it and I'll be out running around again.
Well, I got the motor started by using a 2g maf and setting the MAFT box to input from a 2g maf. It runs rough but that's probably because I didn't have it in the airstream, only hooked up and sitting in the engine bay.I just wanted to see if the stock baro and temp sensors were what were...
So the sensor checked out according to the test. When I put the sensor back in the car and hooked it up, the resistance between the two wires going to it went to 1.7 kOhms but when they are disconnected the resistance across the sensor is 5.7 kOhms.Is this right or does this point towards a...
I was driving my car a few weeks ago and for some reason the fans stopped cycling on like they are supposed to. The car overheated and blew the head gasket. I had the head machined and replaced the head gasket.The car is now having a hard time starting when it is cold. It fouls out the spark...
Awesome, I'm glad you were able to kick in with some knowledge. There is one more question I have left; can I use a regular 100mm crank from any of these crank kit manufacturers I can find from a google search or should I use a high dollar crank? Will an OEM crank break under higher horsepower...
Thanks again man, the label on the box says the compression height is 1.130 which is like 28.7mm, not sure if that means anything to you. It doesn't to me, which is why I'm here for help. I've built different motors in stock configuration over my life but this will be my first motor that isn't...
Thanks Delta, that's exactly the answer I was hoping for. I think I'll go with option number 2 because the eagle rods I have are stock length, I've already got the pistons and the block so all I have to get is a crank kit. Tuna, that "cut from a catalog" is actually a picture I took of the label...
4g64 or 4g63 2.4L, or is there really a lot of difference? I'm also curious how you could tell those pistons I have are 2.4 pistons vs stroker pistons? I thought a stroker piston was just shorter so that it wouldn't come out of the cylinder when the stroke was increased.
Okay, the whole "Headgasket eating 2.4L" comment threw me off, I hadn't really heard anything like that but if it's true, I definitely want to stay away from that headache. I really want a 2.3L anyways, not a 2.4L
So I can't use these pistons in the block I have now, even though the bore is right? The machine shop screwed me, they led me to believe that I could use these rods and pistons with my block bored out and a different crank. No wonder they hooked me up with them so cheap. Guess I'll have to try...
So can I use them in my bored out 4g63 block with the eagle rods I have and a 100mm crank to create a 2.4 stroker? I'm getting a lot of conflicting information here, confusing.
If I'm reading that chart right, it says that with a stroke of 88mm, a bore of 87mm and stock piston position that the displacement will be 2093cc, wouldn't that be like a 2.1L? Just trying to figure this out. Thanks.Here is a picture of the pistons I have next to a 6 bolt turbo piston, are...
Okay. These are the rods and pistons that I have. Are you saying that I can't use these with a stroker crank on my bored out block because I'll crash my valves? Thanks. Eagle Connecting Rod Set - H-Beam - Slowboy Racing Inc. - The performance experts for factory turbocharged vehicles.
I recently got a really good deal on a set of JE pistons and Eagle rods. I've got a rebuilt motor in my talon with 2g pistons because my old block blew a piston ring at high boost. I picked up the rods and pistons and had the machine shop bore out my old block to fit the pistons, 87mm, and now...