Doing a compression test is always good, infact I would've done that before the purchase to be honest. And about the belt, my old 2G always was snapping that same belt. I would replace it every month or so which was quite annoying. Come to find out that the parts place was giving me the wrong...

Well under load it will produce the most smoke it it is the coolant seals going bad but it can leak just under normal driving too. If the seal is going bad it'll leak just like a failing gasket. So diagnose the problem, Is it every time you drive the car or it just on start ups and long idling...

Well white smoke on long idles like in traffic, or warm up etc can or could be valve stem seals. I had problems with those causing smoke like crazy even under boost. White smoke is coolant, so it could be the turbo or the headgasket. Couple things to look atEdit: forgot to add thisYou...

That doesn't make any sense. Black to pressure sending unit and green to pressure sending unit. I do car audio installs and alarms and have done my gauges just fine with no problems.REd = 12 volts constant Black = and should always be GROUND only. It's rare that it's not a ground when in a...

16 to 18awg is what to use. 12awg is way too large and not needed

When I spun a rod bearing in my old laser the car ran just fine and boosted like normal. But when at idle or something I could feel it in the clutch pedal or when rev'd the engine it would knock loudly. Drain your oil see if there are metal shavings at the bottom of the pan and/or the bottom of...

The starting issue sounds like you're having issues with your coolant temperature sending unit that goes to the ECU. It's like this, my car I rebuilt from the transmission to the motor. ON the day I went to start her up, she wouldn't start. Just cranked over and over. I check for fuel, spark and...

Just a thought, when you changed the fuel pump did you change the FPR? Since you went to a larger fuel pump you could be over running your FPR and now its failing. But that would make it feel like fuel cut. Also for starting issues you check to make sure you have fuel, spark and compression...

Perfect thank you for the response. And the spark plugs are actually tan with a little bit of white

The 10lbs reading is from an aftermarket gauge, and I am Using NGKBPR6eIX which I think are ones that arent' recommended for the car but they did well for awhile . Also fuelt cut at ten psi is not what I am facing. I have faced fuel cut in another DSM it's like hitting a wall. I can get around a...

So here is my problem with my car: Normal driving the car is smooth, and does not act funny at all with low or no boost. Idling is perfect in 100 degree weather about 1100 to night time temps at 900 or so. But at WOT @ only 10psi on a fully stock car the car feels like its missing. It hesitates...

Is there a crack in your valve cover??? That's how mine got oil on the top all the time. Especially under load it would just keep coming up. Happens usually when you over torque the bolts to the valve cover.

Well the other night we had a DSM meet and we all rolled out to where everyone meets with their cars to run them and what not. Anyways my cars Rpm's gauge started acting up by bouncing all over the place and my car was running terrible. Today I took out the ecu and found this. I assume this ECU...

You can run 450cc injectors now but you couldn't control them properly. I would get a Turbo ECU with harness as well to run those injectors. But I don't see why you would need a SAFC when you get a turbo ecu and harness. The turbo models run 450cc injectors stock and wouldn't harm anything. A...

I would tap the accessory wire from your ignition harness. If you do that it will be a constant on at all times day or night but only when the key is in the ignition cylinder and one click forward or on the run position. Your cig lighter you could tap for power too seeing how that is a constant...

The half shaft axle reduces torque steer. In theory it should work just fine but when launching the car it might pull one direction more than it used to

Is there possibly a hair line crack in the oil feed line?? Or maybe the crush washers arent' sealing up properly? That's the only place oil comes from on that side. It's either that feed or there is a freeze plug that is cracked or not in it's place anymore somewhere. Were you getting on it...

It actually was the alternator that failed. I put a new one is and bam the car is good again just wanted to know what that did since the wires to that plug were so bad

Sounds to me your have a bad boost leak , multiple boost leaks, and/or a vacuum leak. you need to boost leak test it and make sure it's all right. Eye balling it won't tell you if you are leaking

Well I am glad to see you found the problem. I have a boost leak at the fuel rail where the injectors go. The guy that owned the car before me broke off the bolt inside the head and I drilled a hole into it and got an extractor in the but my Drill is no where near strong enough to undo it. so...

Well I've done it on one of my old DSM's with no problems at all, but it does put more stress since instead of 4 bolts securing it down and distrubiting the weight properly only 2 bolts are holds it and more stress will happen on the mount.

Ok so this is a total newbie question but I can not find a forum about it on a 1G. I found for a couple 2G's though which doesn't help. Just want to know what the plug is for that plugs into the alternator? I know the other 2 wires the go to the bolt is what sends the voltage back to the battery...

There are several places you can leak from at the throttle body. At the butterfly, where it connects to the TB elbow or to the intake manifold, out of the BISS screw, and at the ISC as well. BLT it from the upper innercooler piping first since you think your problem is at the throttle body...

The bad part is when someone mistreats the vehicle, doesn't maintain it at all. They just know its fast and they drive it that way. Well than stuff starts to break and they say oh now it's time to sell. Than someone like you or me gets it. Fact is I had similiar issues. Clutch master went back...

Glad I could help

Did you by chance look at the alternator fuse?

OUr power steering pump are notorious for leaking and killing the alternator so be careful. Find where it's leaking for sure and fix it

That does happen I don't remember why but it does. It might just be the valve stem seals but usually the smoke on start up and long idles when warm is a pretty clear cut sign. Was that the first time the car has done that to your spark plugs? Also is all your temperature gauges readying normal?

BAd valve stem seals would cause smoke on long idles, or on first start ups of the days. Usually goes away when driving ETC. What spark plugs are you using? NGH BPR6es? 8es?

Ok guys so I went ahead and bouth a Optima Red top battery for the maximum cranking amps which helped alot!! Also re ran a new ground and power cable to the starter and battery. Helped out a lot!! But still wouldn't start. Ok so figured it out, Turns out my ECU temperature sending unit wires...

I agree, you need to run a compression test. If you do infact have a bent valve the cylinder should be at 0 compression when testing. Read the Vfaq if you do not know how to do the test.

So guys here is another problem with this car. I am not getting any idiot lights on such as oil, coolant, or anything except for CEL and the seat belt light when the key is all the way turned right before you turn it to start. The car will not start up and it's cranking really slow which I...

Ok so I metered te battery again and now I'm at 12.3v still so that's good news. I just checked for fuel, and my car is getting fuel. Next to check is compression and for spark. Which I am pretty sure I have no spark, so where do I check? Coil Pack? Transistor? Spark Plugs? Spark Plug wires?

Actually I just pulled to door switch relay and not more problems.But before that my car wouldn't even crank over and once I pulled that fuse it did so good news from that. Also my car is cranking over really slow so I had gotten it charged and still the same result. I ran new ground wires...

Well I just muilti-metered my battery I got a whole 3.6 volts with the battery connected and a 5.6 volts without. I have a power drain somewhere, I looked at my fuses and My door lock fuse was blown as soon as I put another one in there it popped again. Looks like its grounding out. So that...

Ok still yet another problem....The car will not crank over at all!! Just clicks and that's all.. I just got a new battery yesterday, along with new terminals so that is out of the question. I took the starter off and had it tested out and it passed the test according to auto zone. So now...

Figured it out, Problem 1 was that there were the wires running from the alternator to the 80amp fuse were not bolted to the fuse. they were hidden underneath the fuse box all together so bolted those up into place. 2nd the wires that bolt to the alternator were touching the alternator housing...

80amp fuse isn't that the required one???

As soon as I Put that wire to the alternator fuse, than after it was secure I put the positive terminal on the battery and the fuse started to glow orange and than pop went the fuse...Ideas???

Dude thank you so much!!!

So guys I just picked this car up did a motor swap in it and went to crank it over and no crank just click click. New battery and I used a multi meter to check it which was fine but I found this random wire that runs off the batter to where??? It wasn't attached when I found it like this anyone...

Just wondering how should I support the engine. Without the cross member bar which is the main support of the engine correct. So how will I support it up.

Removing that crossmember bar how does the engine stay supported than?

Yes I have the balance shafts removed, first mod I did lol on first swap. But clean it with brake cleaner? Or what? Also honing brush? Parts store?

Bottle brush? Lol I'm not sure what that is

Ok thanks! A lot I'm glad it'll be easy!

Will it be harder to do than if I pull the motor?

Just curious if anyone has put in new rings and pistons in with the block in the car? I was thinking about trying it. Machine shop said cylinder walls look good don't need to do anything

It was the alternator fuse

No it has juice. Been charged too