Sounds like a belt tension issue to me. These are hard to gauge where is "too tight" when the belt only travels a short distance. If you have access to a shop manual it might be worth a look.
The car doesnt use any more amps because there is more capacity. Its more like keeping the old stove and putting in the 50A breaker. When the system is working correctly the battery takes the big hits and the alt. keeps it charged. I think the Saturn alt. just does better at low rpm. With that...
Hey guys, my trans was working great, would spin tires partway into second. All the sudden it started slipping in 2nd and OD. It still shifts, and still pulls until the turbo comes in, then it slips. Im thinking I broke a band or something that applys the clutches. Fluid is clean and full, well...
My 1G auto ran a 15.69 @90 with stock boost and leaving like a gramma because of traction, every run I got a little faster as I learned to launch it. An AWD auto should run easy 15.0 with just the boost turned up and running right. Crossfire's run 15.1 @ 93. Full Test: 2004 Chrysler Crossfire...
Probably just a backyard way of making the fans and fog lights run all the time. The fog lights are only suppose to light with low beam headlights on, and the passenger side fan should cycle on and off with engine temp. The drivers side fan only comes on with the a/c.
I have a couple questions. Are you working on a 97 tsi awd or a 92 Laser turbo? Where is the alternator relay? Also I'm curious what connection was loose.
Mine is doing the exact same thing after a head rebuild. Mine is stock and even with the tstat out it wants to run 209-216 stopped in traffic. I'm using MMCD on a Palm. Turning on the A/C (both fans) helps some. Now that the humidity and temps have come down it's a little better.What brand...
Replaced the head gasket, new intake valves, resurface the head and ARP headstuds. I can nail it from a stop, (auto trans.) the tires start spinning all the way thru first, then chirp in second. If I brake torque, it just instantly blows the tires off and I just sit there spinning. No knock at all.
Just for your info, the post cat O2 is for measuring the efficiency of the cat, which you don't have. So get used to an O2 code to go with your EGR code.
Palm 3c logger worked perfect, then my headgasket popped. I hooked it up after the HG was fixed, now it won't connect to the car. Also when I ground the jumper to set the timing, it acts like 1 cylinder has a dead miss (logger disconnected). Car runs better than ever, lots of power no issues...
At least yours is pretty! LOL My O2 is switching, so I'm wondering about Phantom Knock. I'm also curious if a boost leak would cause/cure this. The link rush2252 posted said "High timing + high airflow = knock". If the ECU is seeing a ton of air come in at WOT, then not all of it makes it into...
I just replaced my knock sensor for the exact same logs. Although mine in bone stock. Full 43 knock counts at WOT. The knock sensor oozed the black goo all down the back of the block, so I convinced myself there was nothing to insulate the 'sensor' parts inside, making it hyper sensitive. New...
The good news is they're only $75. The bad news is there is 32 of them, and no one has the machine to change them. LOLIt does look more like something at ToysRus than a car.
Take the nut loose and either flip it up like your changing the blade, or just kind of bang with the heel of your hand on the fat part of the arm. If that doesn't get it. use a really small hammer with the nut 3-4 threads started and just bonk it real light right square on the nut. Don't give it...
It's been about a year, but I think the TCU was $125 and ECU was $150-160 w/ 1 yr warranty. Pretty cool guys. WAAAAAY out in the boonies if you have to drive there. At the time they were shipping for $5 each way.
Hey, if Hop can't do it in your time frame, these guys did both my ECU and TCU. Price is right and they did the TCU while I waited! :thumb:BTW, baking soda will neutralize the acid coming out of the caps.
I won't put anything in an engine before I read the label. I poured a whole can in and drove till next oil change. Noticed an instant difference. I think it's more an additive than a flush.I want to try it in the intake, I've heard good things.
Wasn't the Mike Hunt joke on the movie American Grafitti? "Has anyone seen ..."I don't get Mike Jones, dare I ask? We have one at work...My buddies brother owns an auto shop, his name is G.A. Rajabi. Took me like a year seeing his email on FWD's from my buddy before I realized it. :p
Just for grins, the factory tire size is 205/55r16
205= tread width in mm (measured at the widest part of the sidewall, cross section)
55 = sidewall is 55% of tread width
r = radial belts
16 = rim diameter, of course in inchesA 215/45r17 looks a little small for my (factory height)...
Tight but not stretching the belt. The belt should have almost no up and down movement if the pulleys are close together (2-3inches) If it's been doing this for a while, the belt could be getting hard, or "glazed" compounding the problem. The ribbed side of the belt should be soft enough to dig...
BAM! Nailed it. "In spec" and "drives straight" are not the same. I could align your car with every angle out of spec and you most likely wouldn't know until 4 months later when your tires are spitting out steel belts. Take it back until it drives straight.Seems like those Accords should...
Sounds similar to the way mine runs. Have you checked your knock sensor? Mine looks like somebody lit it like a candle and the guts ran down the back of my block. By 3000 rpm I'm at 43 knock counts and single digit if not negative timing advance. It's directly under the intake manifold.
Take it to the Mitsu dealer. Sounds like a drive train alignment/assembly issue. Rear diffs don't just start making noise from putting a clutch in. And a trans doesn't just break from a clutch job. You got hosed. You can't just keep replacing parts until you fix something.Don't go back there...
Been fighting the same thing. Check your battery connections, make sure you can give them a pretty stiff tug without moving them. :thumb:Drrr, sorry, somehow I missed all the posts after the first one.
I think a Bravada chassis would do well. It would be heavy and handle crappy, but it would remove much of the wiring nightmare trying to go between brands. Standard AWD and plenty of suspension mods available, whether you want to go up or down. I imagine the wheelbases are similar, and the...
We've had alot of luck cleaning out the ISC (Idle Speed Control) with carb cleaner and bolt it right back on. Have you had any work done lately? Many times goofy gauges and such things can be traced back to previous work. Have a poke around under the hood and look for things out of place.
I'm running a single Memphis 10 in a sealed box with Alpine 160 watts. Has enough bass to make all 3 mirrors useless and I can still use my hatch area. The key is the right parts and wiring it correctly. Do alot of research before you start, you'll be glad you did.
Sorry for the delay, but I think we're near resolution. Finally got a logger, knock counts are maxed out before 3000 rpm. Jacked it up to look at the knock sensor, and I can see it's guts! :aha: There is a trail down the back of the block where said guts melted/disintegrated. Apparently Mitsu...
Hoping for a little direction here. Thought I was fighting a voltage problem, somehow thats resolved itself today. Profile is up-to-date and I'm running on Shell 93 octane. Autometer boost gauge shows solid 12psi. Thanks in advance.RoadSurge.com - CSV Conversion for ID : 3
Nice work! If you can stand everyone asking why, you can do the racecar install. Twist the gauge so the needle points straight up when "normal" That way you can just glance at them and know your good. :sneaky: