The alternator could be grounding out on your intercooler piping...if you have a short route setup that runs close to the alternator. Excessive heat can also cause alternators to fail early but thats normally over some time. Those are the only two ways that i can think off that could kill your...

The noise sound that you hear in the center console might be the MPI relay which is located close to the ECU. there are multiple things that can cause a battery drain. Here are some things to check Battery (you replaced) Alternator (you replaced) Ground Wires 100 Amp fuse in the fuse box to the...

This might help! http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/mid-atlantic-region-dsm/323583-delaware-dsm-2.htmlI live in Bear but i'm currently deployed overseas.

Hey i understand where your coming from. I have an 02 lancer non turbo. As far as exhaust look on youtube and see if you can find a few videos. The non turbo exhaust are normally a bit louder. ebay is another ok source. I have a Greddy cat-back exhaust on my lancer, but thats what i wanted

I just checked the part numbers and they are all the same for the TSI models from 91 to 94. So to answer your question yes. I would just buy a new one to be safe. As far as the zapping situation i dont know.

It all depends on if your launching or not, driving the car like normal or beating the piss out of it. I would say about 350 if you want it to last for a bit. 350-400 is a gamble and anything over 400 you would want something built.

Did you have any luck checking the pins and voltage to you OBD II port?

There are a lot of things that you could do. I would first look at the upgrade path section here.Tech Guide: 1G 4G63t Upgrades - DSMtunersfirst you need to know your goal!! Drag, street, autocross....etc. then decide what path you want to take. Search the site there are tons of posts here!!

I would shop around. You can get the piping cheaper. Make sure when you purchase intercooler piping, it has a bead so your piping doesn't blow off under boost. An the piping is Aluminum. There are vendors and sites that sell the full kits for 350 on up.Here are a few links: Intercooler Pipe...

Is this every time you start your car or only if its been sitting for a few days? How long does the tick last? What kind of oil do you use?

First i would check the wiring. Pins come lose, get bent and things get disconnected all the time. Did you check the pins in your link cable? Do you have an electrical diagram for your car? Its going to be a pain in the ass..

Send me a PM with you email and i will send you a copy of some of the electronic manuals i have..

If you don't have any problems I would stay 7.... The only real problem that could occur in the future is Crank walk. Besides that you will be fine!!http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-engine-fuel/342560-crankwalk-depth-explanation.html

I say the 80/20 rule. Invest 80% of it, you never know whats going to happen. Then spend 20% on your car!!

I would personally pull the whole thing out. There are tons of moving parts and 65 isn't that slow!!Sorry i didnt realize the hole was from the CV-shaft!!!

If you save and purchase it you won't be disappointed!!!

I have a Thermal on my 90 Talon and love it..... It all depends on what you want and your budget. If you really want if save up the money and wait. Just remember some times your luck and other times you get what you pay for!!

I agree it is happening for a reason...... and SEAFOAM is the shit!!

No sure about the tranny fluid! i have worked on lots of cars and i use Lucas product to help with ticks. I also have a 02 lancer with about 216,000 miles on it and i use Lucas oil stabilizer.Also check this link out...

Like Rob10_99 said its not going to be really practical unless you are going over 100 mph.... It could be used for a nice show car look!

Man wish i was there and not overseas right now!!

So so funny but so wrong.... I'm still laughing

Finally i was able to rewire my water meth and heat shrink all of the connections....

I'm jealous and i have a clean 90 Talon..... Wow its clean!!!:thumb:

Wow that sucks man!!

I have always used tirerack.com.

I installed my PR kit about a year ago with only one problem. I had to have the BOV hole plugged and moved to the side. The kit fit fine with a stock BOV, but my HKS SSQ was hitting the hood when i closed it. As far as the fins i haven't checked but i will check today when i get off, and post...

That Kid got rocked!!!!!!

I should be able to make it from Delaware.

If your car is hopping like peter cotton tail then it might be the shocks and struts. If you push down on the fender or trunk and the car bounces like a ball (It should only bounce once) then you need shocks or struts.

I have not changed any of the settings in the car since the whole elctrical problem but i did switch from a cheap boost controller to a Hallman Manual boost controller. Tomorrow i will set the base FP at 38 and turn the boost controller all the way out.

Yeah that was my mistake i wasn't at 100% i will do another one tomorrow. As far as the fuel pressure my base is set at 28 to help with the idle ( thats how the previous owner had it set), but for some reason when i go into open loop its like the car just dumps fuel. I check with the guy i got...

I ran another log today

Meet on Thursday? Anyone

The car was set at 24 PSI during that set ( now at 16). I also have a 2 stage water meth system which sprays at 12 and 22 psi. Thats probably why it looks so screwy. Next week i will have my daily driver back on the road so i can finally tune and check for boost leaks. I had an AFC prior and it...

This is the last log that i took last week.

Ok here is the story in short . I purchased my car and after about 8 months of owning it the voltage regulator in the alternator went south and fried everything electrical in my car. It blew the dry cell battery fried the AFC, ECU, turbo timer, digital gauges, auto seat belts and even my brake...

Are you sure thats not a 2G body kit

It looks like an Ebay kit my brother purchased for his 2G. It took us a week of shop time to get it to fit and allot of modifications. In my opinion its not worth the hassle.

I think stock is the way to go!!

What type of body Kit is it? Just remember there is no such thing as direct fit.

Are we still on for the meet tonight?:talon:

Mother's clay bar three times a year to pull dirt and contaminants out of the paint

Yeah the alternator was the first thing I replaced…. The TT was fired but I can turn the car off and on, drive it the whole nine yards. The ECU clicks when turned off. The car beeps (like it did when the seat belts use to move) and beeps again when you turn it off.

So here is the problem about a month ago my alternator decided to take a dump (well the voltage regulator in it). Which normally isn’t that bad….. normally. The over charging took out my battery, the AFC, my auto seat belts, and my turbo timer. Anyway everything has been replaced and now the new...

I will retrace all of the wiring, then check the ECU board. If i can not fine anything. I will just run the power through the ignition like Scott said.Thanks for the help guys

The wires are soldered and I just replaced the AFC not the harness. I was wondering if there is something wrong with the ECU.

So here is the problem about a month ago my alternator decided to take a dump (well the voltage regulator died). Which normally isn’t that bad….. normally. The over charging took out my battery, the AFC, my auto seat belts, and my turbo timer. Anyway everything has been replaced and now the new...

So the other day I was driving my car and the alternator decided to take a dump. It fried the battery. Now when I turn the car on all of the gauges and the boost controller come on. The SAFC, the auto seatbelts, brake lights and the radio don’t work now. Since I purchased that car with the AFC...