Did the car actually ever run right since you've had it? I'm not imparting blame, just trying to isolate if there was a change that happened.
A logger of some sort would help, you can look at a few things that could help figure it I think. I may have a few days later next week PM me if you're...
Tuning with a MAF-T isn't the best solution. It's kinda like trying to kill a mosquito with a tack hammer, sure it's fun trying it, but not really too useful. Without a CEL or some sort of logging method, there's really a limited set of standard answers to give. I'm also assuming that you're...
I'll be honest, that's nowhere near enough to provide even a shadow of a prognosis for you situation. Things like boost leaks, exhaust leaks, base settings not being set to spec would be a few things I looked at. Also what tuning solution are you looking at? Are you running a wideband O2 sensor...
Power flows to the ECU. You need to find out why you only have 4.2V going to the relay. Just test for voltage at every connector prior to the relay. Once you find where it's not 12V you have the wire to start looking at.
The Viscous Coupler (VC) is internal to the transmission, located right next to the 5th gear set. If you lower the transmission you may be able to get that cover off, I've never attempted that. Welding the center diff isn't going to help as the power still has to be transferred through the VC.
You'd have to have a Viscous coupler eliminator installed. By the sound of it you want to leave the transfer case installed too, that won't work as the shaft is what helps seal the fluid in.
Both will cause you to go into open loop.
https://www.ecmtuning.com/wiki/fueltrimupdatepointsI know on a 1g an open causes a low reading and short would be high. As far as troubeshooting the CTS sensor would be cheaper and easier to replace. IMHO, keeping it in open loop might have an effect...
Well, it was rather specific in the book. At 176*F you should see about .26-.36. I'd bet bad luck on the sensor. I'd drop a thermometer in there just to be safe on that call.
At this point I'd rig up a potentiometer to work in the CTS harness. With the key on, make the fans turn on/off with the potentiometer. It's the exact same concept as the CTS itself. Measure the resistance across the potentiometer, if it's way off spec then you have an issue back towards the...
Not so fast, there's a resistor pack on the firewall. The NT's didn't have those.
I bet if you look under the intake you'll either find a knock sensor or a plug for a knock sensor at least. This at best would be a peeling back the layers approach to see what injectors are actually in there, they...
That kinda covered it, but I was replacing a power transistor connector on the harness when I realized there were two wires the exact same colors. I found a electrical fsm a day or two later, problem solved. Hopefully I can get this knock sensor soldered in before the end of the week.
Anyone have the schematics for a 2g power transistor? I need to know which of the black wires with the white strips goes where, there's a larger gauge one and a thinner gauge one.
I've used a Dorman Help! brand breather clips in a pinch. It's a bit thinner material, but held up fine till I could get the right parts.Dorman® Help! 41113 - Breather Element Clips | O'Reilly Auto PartsIt'll be similar to this one, if not, that one. Any parts store should have that available.
The engine and head themselves are not the issue of fitment. The oil filter housing and oil cooler would need to be kept on the Talon due to the 90 having an air cooled cooler. The starter plate and flywheel would need to be kept with each respective drivetrain due to the differences in sizes of...
Lemme get this straight. Stroker, bigger turbo, cams, intake, and exhaust, yet it would appear that they're still using the stock SMIC? Something isn't quite right, but for the right price I'd pick it up.
You're a bit off in the WOT and idle ideations. During closed loop (Idle) operation the ECU uses the O2 sensor to monitor the fuel trims in order to achive a 14.7 AFR. Now for open loop (WOT) operation it uses that table to achieve the AFR's that are specified by making and educated guess on the...
I have a 6 bolt bare block I pulled a year ago. No crank, oil squirters still in, was bored for 1mm over pistons. I know what it is, so PM if you're interested.
I had a discussion with someone about this a while back. Basically we came to the conclusions that most people making a braided line know that there's the possibility that some percentage of people are going to run E85 for fuel and secondly if you look at how long this SS line has been used it's...
I've passed the sniffer without a cat before, so I know it can be done. Last time I went, the MAF was so far out of the injectors I pegged the machine on the high idle. I have a fairly close tune so we'll see how it turns out.
Not yet, I gotta get my sniffer sticker, hopefully that should be fairly soon.
As far as OEM coolant parts go, I have 1 banjo bolt and couple of the crush washers. My old ones were so nasty I wouldn't wish them on a Honda.
I did my bay in just primer and a sealer. It's actually true, prep prep prep and when you think you're done with that prep some more. Something to consider when doing any engine bay is that you have a lot of non flat surfaces and if it's just a little off it'll show. I went the chemical stripper...
If you're running a composite, it almost becomes a throw parts at a problem solution, "sure take it off, measure it, and pop another gasket on" solution. And even though my personal record for taking a 4G63 head off in an hour is good it's painful for naught.
Thank you GST2012GSX very well explained. Definitely post the numbers up so we can see what's going on.http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WgrfT0LFMhc915DSM:
This guy is pretty good at explaining the leakdown test. Maybe if you pull the plug next to the other cylinder you might get some noise...
Well if you're not losing coolant I'd be temped to think either oil or fuel. If you hold your hand on the back of the tail pipe and it's bad as you say it is you should be able to smell what it is and go from there. Being a non turbo there's not too much that can burn oil, the only things that...
Based off your mod list the car is converted to a N/T. Is this still the case?
Next check to make sure you're not burning any fluids off. As well make sure that fluids aren't being mixed (ie water in the oil or oil in the water). If any are dropping then I'd start looking in that direction...
Yeah, a stroker with a FP green.... But I didn't like the way things looked for a bit. So much I put the plastiGauge in the bearings. I don't like my oil pressure @ idle. So I gotta figure why. In my hyper-analytical mind it can't be nothing simple.
This thread ebbs and flows.
I've been fighting my own battles here. I get back after a less than 3k RPM cruise tune everything is phenomenal, other than my oil pressure.... I'll track it down... I got 3 other things I'll check before going full lab monkey mode (not knowing whether to fight, ####...
Or you could swap the diff ring gear from your old trans.... a few OEM bolts, and the nonreusables replaced would fix that right up cheaper than a new Xfer case
Bad news,
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/335321-resolved-transfer-case-fitament-will-work.html#post151852493Tim knows his stuff with transmissions. The good news is you can swap the guts out if you need to.
A 2G trans correct? 1G's had the roll stops off the front and back of the motor, while the 2G's according to ASA has them off the transmission. Big difference there...The top trans is a pic out of ASA showing the roll stops on the 2G parts (21832 and 21832P). The lower is a 1G trans showing...
Careful which set you're getting for a 2G. It looks as if both the Energy suspensions and the Prothanes use a insert type to stiffen the Front and rear OE mount. For the prothanes, the left and right have a common part number between the two indicating that they can be used on all DSM's. I seem...
^^^^ Easiest? no. Nate had a Oem bushing out in like 10 minutes. I watched him do it. Most fun? Oh Hell YEAH!For the PITA ones... Fire and a hacksaw! I'm not subtle by any means, nor do I care for finesse too much.
Oh and I have a press too for that just in case option
On a budget first thing is first, the broke junk.... Nuff said! Second after that would be motor mounts (HSIOW!) 3rd and 4th are front and rear stuff. The steering stuff is last in my book(file the K member under steering), Tie Rod boots? Seriously?!?
Just remember to toss a couple dollars in there for an alignment right after that. I chewed a set of tires up in a month by being lazy. Plus she was so off it was like trying to control a cat in tap shoes on ice. Bushings are a must to include the engine ones as well