Okay I guess this confirms this forums is dead. Thanks for the help guys. Not even one post!! Rock on!

Heeeellllooooooooo? Anyone still.out there?

So my problem is when I enable boost control, I just get wastegate pressure. I tried to set my base duty cycle table to 35 %, 50% and 95% across the board and I still just get wastegate pressure. I'm using ECM link v3 with a mac 3 port solenoid, hooked up using both ports on the external 38mm...

Yeah I actually turned the BOV adjustment back a bit and it seemed to help a lot.Not sure if the BOV will hold as much boost now.I have found in can control the surge by just not boosting past 10 psi while cruising /light acceleration. I checked and my turbo actually starts making boost...

How i have it wired the relay just switches the BCS signal wire. The relay will not be switching on/off with the duty cycle. It just connects the two different control wires to the BCS depending on if it's de-energized or not. This will allow switching between a "race" boost map and a "low"...

Running tunerpro Swede density. Has separate boost maps for BCS solenoid and EGR solenoid.Here's a picture of how I would wire it up.This should allow me to just flick a switch and switch from "race" boost map to a low boost map that will run low boost and solve my compressor surge issues...

Yeah. I changed the thermostat and it may be a bit better but I logged around 216-219 in cruise on highway in like almost 100 degree weather. Going to make some ducting that connects the fmic to the radiator.

well when it hits the boost gauge flutters and makes a crazy noise... scary when its surging like that under acceleration/partial throttle. I swapped in a greddy type S style BOV and cranked the adjustment screw all the way down and it still does the surging at partial throttle in 3-5th gear.

Yeah I don't have any issues pushing coolant. I did run into that once with a mishimoto radiator on a evo. They have a slightly deeper well for the rad cap causing the stock cap to not have enough pressure on the seal. Mishimoto makes a longer cap, but I have not had good luck with that either.

No, I don't have any ducting from the fmic to the radiator

Okay well then maybe it's just reading incorrect. I'll check my actual temp with a laser thermometer and maybe try a spare ecu temp sensor.My stock gauge reads about exactly half way when I'm datalogging the 220-225 coolant temps but it's sorta a weird gauge. I know I forgot to turn my...

No fan shroud. Just two slim fans mounted directly to the inside of the rad. Fans work awesome. If I slow down and idle the temp drops FAST

Yeah if the thermostat doesn't do anything then I may try some ducting to keep the air flowing through the rad. All the stock ducting is long gone when the fmic kit was installed so I'm sure it's easily bypassing the radiator possibly.Also I'm thinking my ecu temp sensor may be reading off...

This has always been a issue. Is fine all through the fall, winter and spring where the temps stay below 30 degrees. Only on hot days in the summer. Even driving in a shady part of the highway let's the car cool down ( while cruising on the highway)... as soon as it leaves the shade and hits...

Okay, this is sorta a weird one. My 1g runs hot on the highway (220-230) on the highway, only going over 100 km/h, and only when the ambient temperature is over 30+ degrees Celsius. I can drive the car around all day in town, race the car at the track over and over again, and it never...

93'colttsi updated $500 investmentView updates to this DSM profile...

93'colttsi updated $500 investmentView updates to this DSM profile...

93'colttsi updated $500 investmentView updates to this DSM profile...

No i can actually understand how they would help surging... i see a lot of oem using them as well in my trades. (ecoboost fords) they are solid little fan like things and spin the incoming air. Would help break up surge in sure especially if placed just before the BOVAnyways. I installed...

Where do you get these tornado things?

Sounds good. I'll put on a greddy style adjustable bov asap and keep this post updated on how it goes.

posting a update on this thread on what I finally figured outECU was bad and causing large fluctuations in all sorts of sensors and voltage. Changed the ecu and problem went away after that. too bad it costed 2 pistons and a engine rebuild in the end.

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93'colttsi submitted a new DSM Profile :$500 investmentRead more about this vehicle here...

I'm getting compressor surge ( I think) on the highway in 4th and 5th gears on light accel/boosting. happens around 10+ psi. turbo starts making boost around 2500 rpm and I can hit full boost (25psi) at around 3800-4000rpmHave my 1ga 100% stock internal 6 bolt(stock cams) Evo 3 16G knock off...

Have you tried dropping the timing in the area where the knock is occurring?

Take me a pic of ur cam gear marks at TDC.Justin. Sounds like classic idle surge. Test your ISC coils for proper resistance and also it could be a faulty FAIV(fast air idle valve). That's if you have verified your proper base idle adjustment. (BISS screw set properly according to specs)

Well I have given up on finding the culprit, and ended up figuring its just harmonics in the engine/trans that is setting the knock sensor off, and theres nothing I can do about it (besides going to a full J&S knock system. Engine is running good and strong, pulls damn hard at the current boost...

if the knock is showing at WOT throttle only, then I would suspect real knock. What boost are you running? what turbo? how much timing/and or how are you tuning it to make sure you have the correct timing advance and fueling at WOT? Compression checks sound as bit weird, never seen a dsm...

here is some pics of the first piston that let go.

Yeah, inspected the plugs (BPR7ES gapped at .028) both times I had the head off, Put fresh ones in each time as well. Plugs did not show any signs of detonation, (no melted electrodes, no splatters on porcelain or pepperin)g. as well as the pistons. only thing I noticed was the cracksin the...

Fuel press 38 psi with FPR Line unplugged. Goes a bit lower with the vac ine connected of course, and raises 1:1 with pressure increase. (AEM adj FPR installed.)When the knock at partial throttle occurs. The A/F raito is good. Stays stioch untill closed loop shuts off at around 0.9 load point...

I have taken away 10 degrees of timing, knocks just the same at partial throttle, (using the global timing sliders) Added timing, knocks just the same, went from the aggressive 1g timing maps, to the evo timing map... same thing... went to the 2G timing map now. Also I don't hear any...

Heres a few datalogs I took of the knock and some pulls/cruisingwondering if someone can take a look at these. Also including a copy of my basic and direct access settingsThinking its partially phantom knock... but not so sure. Picks up the knock counts even when in neutral free-reving. If...

car is back on the road and running great! (with the stock intake cam back in lol(\ going to send the crower 264 intake cam back to crower and see if they will possible check it out and maybe replace it as incorrectly machined.

I have noticed a difference before in several valve cover gaskets.The main difference I noticed was the shape of the bolt hole area on the spark plug tube seals. Some of them are shorter (where it goes out around the bolt) and some are longer. If you have the wrong plug hole seals u will...

http://vid274.photobucket.com/albums/jj242/93tsicolt/badlobe.mp4 a short video of the suspected defective cam lobe base circle.

Okay. Swapped lifters back in (original ones). Ran off all 4 cyl's untill the lifters bled out the air, then lost compression on #1 again. Time to look very close at the cam lobe. Used a dial indicator and checked the base circle. Found that both intake cam lobes have a dip on the base circle...

Okay, I'll try and swap the old lifters into the problem cylinder and see what happens (small oil hole 1g style lifters)Also I did the work with the head installed using the on-car special tool and compressed air.

Okay, talked to the owner of the evo and he did confirm the engine had been rebuilt at one point. This would make the option of incorrect installed height more plausible.the installed height can change sometimes if a valve gets to hot and "tulips" (pulls stem up higher) or also if the seat or...

Well im pretty sure installed height has to do with just the height of the valve stem. to adjust you need to grind the margin of the valve. The BC springs SHOULD have enough spring pressure.... the base circle on the crower cams should be the same as stock.

With the lifters out, the valves seat instantly without any issues. The same valves also seat fine when the lifters still have some air in them (normal after bleeding them). Its not until the lifters stock ticking, and the air is all out, then the valve has issues seating. For all I know it...

Car is a evo 1 GSR. Stock engine internals as far as I know, but it could have had a head job at some point, Im not sure though. Car ran fine and like stock before the following mods.Installed brian crower stage 1 single springs and retainers, installed new supertech valve stem seals at the...

PARTS!heres some of the evo stufffront subrframe and engine/trans/tcase from evo1evo 7 bolt and transrear end and subframeAnd the goodies, almost got everything, time to start tearing into her!6 bolt going into the new build...going to get new goodies!and here is how...

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Okay, let me change this question up a littleSay turbo is the evo 3 16g.Would the s3 cams make more power from 5500 RPM to 7500 RPM , or would the s2 camshafts make more power in that RPM range.said that, I figure when im racing the 1/4 mile, I will not be using RPM's less then 5500-5000...

Sounds good kiggly! I will be doing a "initial" build this year before I go AWD, and will probably use the stock HLA for now. But once the forged bottom end goes in, well haha, no more screwing around.I am currently in the process of receiving all my build parts, so in a few weeks I should...