As far as I know there were no Dsm that came stock with the dual runner cyclone intake manifold it was a jdm part as I use that term loosely...they are said to improve torque

So from what I just read is that you can machine a hx35 turbine housing to fit a hx40...if I am right will it help spool quicker and who here knows somewhere that does this please help me

I just checked my local mitsu dealer and list price is 23.23 cost is 17.42 but it would have to be ordered i hope that helps you

You can get a srt4 its fwd and turbo

i am running a AMS shaft delete and i was under the impression that i would need to still leave the bearings so that the oil would lube the shaft end in the beariing as to not ruin the bearing or shaftedit sorry i didnt scroll down and i am still a little tired sorry

Ok so i have a question are ksport coilovers junk as well or what would you recommend for a street driven and occassionaly tracked car...and i am not meaning to thread jack...i am just asking cause of the nature of this post

First off i want to say beautiful car and i know i would be interested in those bushings that you made if you ever would consider making them pm me with pricing

Op if you look on most vendors sites they have recirc kits most of them are using the new tial mvs or mvr waste gates and it will bolt up to the hot side of a mitsu flanged turbo other wise watch the classified for the old school slow boy manifold with the waste gate on the runner it will be a...

Not trying to thread jack but what are these mounting pads you speak of and btw great info

Atmosphere dump waste gates will help control or prevent boost creep all a recirculating does is keep it quiet it will depend on your setup and what you plan to do with the car imo i would run the atmosphere dump

The wiring harness is different both under the hood and under dash so if you want to swap it all the way to a 91 you will need both harnesses and a 91-94 throttle body and a cas (cam angle sensor) ecu coil pack and the power ignitor the rest you just plug and play

Not to thread jack but is there a link that i can use to find out what all plugs and connectors i can remove from my harness its a 1992 gsx 5 speed any help would be greatand op your car looks amazing props...and i miss my 2 1990's i had 1 fwd 1 awd

I placed an order earlier this week...dang i should have waited...oh well i still love ordering from stm fast shipping and great customer service

I dont really like leather but those are straight up sexy you are lucky most seats i find in my local yards are destroyed

If you read the holset page it says that you should spool by 4000 but if you have 280 cams and have the degreed i would be willing to bet spool would be around 3500-3700 rpm

Do all your maintenance and just make it some what dependent and dont cheap out on parts that are important like timing belt and related parts and dont waste your time with ebay exhaust manifolds stick with stock/evo 3/fp when you get there and same with turbos no ebay junk turbos get mhi/fp...

I know the placing of them on the car and the little wire thats by the big black thing goes to the silver noise thing i think thats what that is they are right by the windshield wiper motor i dont know if i would remove those and the other plug on my 92 there was nothing connected to it and when...

I have the black avid mounts and i love them but my friend wants the ones like you have...and keep updating i love reading this thread

I am loving this build keep up the awesome work

You keeping this car going and clean has really motivated me to get mine done faster keep up the great work and keep posting....just fyi i miss both my 90's

I am watching this close i am as well going to use a hx40 and cant wait to see what it can do with my buildand just so you haters out there saying sell the holset you cant beat the cheap rebuild price unlike a precision

I vote leave the motor in and just pull the transmission i have done it at least 15 times and it is a lot easier cause unless you need to pull the engine and lose all the coolant and other fluids all over the ground in stead of just gear oil just my 2 cents

The op pic is almost making me want to sell my 1g and get a 2g just to get those and put them on they are amazing looking

I love this build i really want your or one like it catch can-overflow tank combo you should take and go to jm fab and see if they will make a few

i deleted mine and i live in nebraska and if its hot out i just open the windows and sunroof but i also have been deployed twice and much more tolerable to heat its all up to you i dont regret it but it would be a good thing if i used my car to get my daughter

I WOULD AGREE WITH 95blackGsTurbo TAKE IT TO A SHOP AND HAVE THEM MEASURE AND CRACK CHECK IT I WOULD HAVE THE SHOP CHECK FOR ANY BAD GUIDES IF NONE OF THEM ARE BAD THEN YOU SHOULD BE ABLE TO USE WHATEVER VALVE YOU WANT AS FAR AS THE SEALS I WOULD SAY A SET OF VITON AND AS FOR SPRINGS THAT...

yes those are the stock side skirts

Just to break the normal you could go with an evo 3 or just port your 2g one its a lot cheaper then the fp...granted the fp is awesome but in my mind i could no justify 200 dollars for it and plus you need two dsm turbo bolts as well as two evo turbo bolts

If the mods in your profile are correct and up to date i would say act clutch like a 2100 with a street disc or something to that affect

Also check the ecu as our cars are known for leaking acid out the caps and it will seem like no fuel pump i had it happen to me in my 1990 eclipse gs turbo and the shop said it was the fuel pump but it was later discovered to be ecu

I know on ebay there is a kit made by 316racing...i have not run these as i am going arp bolts that will be slightly longer than stock due to the heat barrier gasket i will be using

My ex wifes 97 gsx auto came with a blown t 2 small and bad motor so the first thing i did was put the new motor and a 14b on and it still is running that same 14b. Imo the only good thing about the t25 is the wastegate actuator because you can modify it to operate the cyclone butterflies but...

Go with a fp intake with reducer for the turbo if on stock turbo or 16g, or small opening 20g....otherwise get the size coupler you need...and they look sweet

Dont sand the head just put the arp head studs in and follow the link that 99gst_racer put up

Do some research on this site there are a ton of knowledgable people that have paved this road...just a note dont put a mls headgasket on with out having the block and head surfaced for one...and arp headstuds are always a good thing to do while your doing a head gasket

if you read he is asking because he want to swap chassis...not convert from manual to autoOP IF ANY QUESTIONS YOU CAN PM ME

No if he is putting a 6 bolt in the auto all he needs is the trans and the motor now if he was to want to change from a m/t to a auto in the 92 then he would only need the engine harness , tcu, ecu, wiring for tcu which i think is part of the harness or a plug in harness and thats it

If all your doing is swapping chassis then just take the motor and trans out....assuming they are both 1g cars and 91-94 just take those and switch there is no reason to rip everything off if you dont have to.AND AS ALONG AS THEY ARE BOTH AWD OR FWD YOU DONT HAVE TO SWAP MOTOR MOUNTS SINCE THE...

Welcome to the family

Not trying to intrude but what is the recommended way to break in a 4g63t 6 bolt thats fully built

Get a set of larger injectors, adjustable fuel pressure regulator, rebuilt throttle body with all sensors and a tune....but do this after checking what the other members said

I like the look of it props to you for the swap

I hardly ever did while cruising around town but after a long drive at constant speed i would finish the song that was on or just sat inn the car for 30 seconds to a min just my 2 cents

A cas on a 91 is not on the timing belt side its on the other side of the intake cam...i would also say check that the tps is still good and i would count the number of turns if you start playing with the biss screw

Stm sells a kit with all oem tensioners and pulleys and you can get it with 3 different belt choices

could the transmission springs in the valve body be weak or it need adjusted i am thinking i may go auto so i kinda want to know things that could be problem area

I would say arp main studs with algin hone just for the added strength

Bronze or stay stock color on a 2gb gsx wheel would be my choice

I agree with bryanwheat fix it and drive it as a dd and if you want to get a turbo model save your money and get one then but you almost always want t o have second car with owning a dsm

more updates please this has me interested in doing something like this cause i miss my old fwd car...keep up the awesome work