Thanks, but I did bench bleed the master befor I put it on

Okay thanks, I will try swaping them tomorrow and will report back with results

Cardone® W0133-1822918 - Ford Explorer 2001 Remanufactured Brake Caliperthis is the caliper. the bleeder screw is on the bottom when its bolted on

Here's a quick run down. I have a 98 gst that I converted awd and then recently just finished installing a ford 8.8 keeping it awd. I bought conversion fittings to mate my exsiting brake lines to the ford calipers and made ss lines. I also have a cnc staging brake that installed. I bled the...

i guess everyone has a shop do it. oh well ill figure it out!

Im actually in the same process of installing an 8.8 too. I'm curious on how people are supporting the rear end. Ive seen pics on one thread but i really didn't like how the setup was. I'm would like to integrate the rear end to the roll cage.

anyone? i know there are plenty of people that have done this

Hi, I'm looking to see how people that have tied in ladder bars to the chassis on the 8.8 swaps. I'm in the process of swapping my 2g and would like some feed back on this. Any help is appreciated!

They are at the machine shop getting some tlc

Oh nice. I am debating if I want to throw in the fp5r cams in the car

The cams say bc102. So when I called bc he said they are the 280s.

Okay thanks for the help. I will check those spots tomorrow and report back to let you know.

Thats what I was thinking so I contacted bc and crower and both stated that either bc would be stamped on it or crowerI have sent mike 2 emails but no response. It has been awhile there for I cant remember. But I know they were 280s or 288s. Could of sworn they were crowers

Hi, so I took my head off yesterday and im trying to verify what cams these are. I know they are either 280s or 288 but just dont know by who? I purchased them around 3 or 4 years ago from gastroker. Any help was be grateful. Thanks

sorry ive been out of town and just got back in. the car is a gsx after the whole build. we didn't worry about wheel shots just focused on the motor and numbers. For right now yes i will be taking my car to the drags with those rims and tires.

Thanks, I have a build journal on here. Yeah I know about the injectors swelling.

kay so finally after a long time in the making I got the chance to hit up the dyno. The car performed great but still is lacking fuel running on e85. I plan on going back to the dyno on q16 but im going to make somemore adjustments to the car first.YouTube - dynobig thanks to everyone...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=agy_YfSWegw just finished at the dyno car did well but i ran into some injector problems

crower cams are working for me right now. never said s374r was a bb turbo??? the manifold can be massed produced but i want to have the only one like this since i was told its not possible to have ac with this turbo.

TCC does the best coating by far in my opinion.

hopefully going to hit up the dyno soon

more pics

I have got lots of pics

where does the noise sound like its coming from??

We are running a new OEM throw out bearing.

500hp is not hard to get on pump so dont let anyone discourage you. I made 517hp 412 tq on pump on my old set up without a built tranny, stock axels, SCM 60-1, ebay manifold, ebay intercooler check out my thread and read the first post for ideals...

our drag evo at jms racing runs 10.02@ 147mph on the QM organic disc and we have no problem with it. Also the clutch has been in the car for about 1yr when the car was drove on the streets. We also have another evo that has the QM in it and that one is a DD.

yeah a video would really help ..

your best net is to drop the oil pan and inspect all the bearings. While your doing this I would also check for crank play. If the bearings are bad and you cant really see anything wrong with the crank, i would take the crank to a local machine shop and have it checked.

^ i agree with BogusSVO. If you have a oil pressure gauge, what is it reading? The lifter tick could be just because they have gone bad over time or because the top end is being starved.

I've done 18psi on the t25 for years without anything happening to the turbo. I guess the question is, how much do you dog your car and take care of it?

does the belt look worn? how is the timing, so it on the money? are there any shavings from the belt or the timing cover from rubbing?

how do your mounts look?

I agree that its either the mc or slave. Both of these are known to go bad so it should be one of the two.

I'm confident to say its your seals for sure, but the leak down test will make things a lot easier and quicker.

Have you messed with anything under the dash lately? It can't be the ecu because all that stuff works off the battery. Sometimes if another ground is needed it will short stuff out because I had this problem with my gauge cluster and other lights not working properly, and adding a ground fixed it.

Check the injector resistor box on the fire wall. I've had this problem before.

good stuff.. I like the way this car is moving

yeah i sure was and it was fwd

thanks, i will most def. post some vids of the dyno. As far as the tranny im going to double syn 2nd and 3rd and do a billet 4th and also have everything cryo coated. Im also going to change up some of the other internals but im not gonna send my tranny off.

Yeah I am just haven't got around to do it yet

yeah its hard trying to fab it up around the alternator

here's some pics of the manifold being made.

Gotta have AC

After making the power I wanted on my first build I decided its time to go bigger and do this full blown balls off the wall setup. My previous setup was as follows:Motor - 6 bolt bored (.20) over - Probe Industry Pistons - Scat Rods - Stock crankHead - Port match head - Stock...

great build man! Its good to see things done right

You cant see the flange...but i doubt its a mitsu flange.

I agree with goodhart..check or adjust your bov

everything looks normal to me. Mine is the same way