did you do cams?

Just sell me the ets :)

this is awesome! exactly what I'm doing for my build! Thanks Robert!

awesome I love these builds! good going man!

Yeah it could be check your levels don't run it low.

Yeah I would then try to see if there is any obstructions on the vapor vent hose....or switch gas station :p. Good luck

Try a pressure test on the radiator. The clamps used on our cars take a dump after the years and you could get a small leak while driving. It happened to me 2 weeks ago. Did a rad pressure test and the pounds were dropping almost instantly with no coolant on the ground. I replaced the clamps...

To check for vacuum leaks try a boost leak tester... super easy to make. If you have a smoke machine (expensive)... you can introduce the smoke from almost any hose. I like the blow off valve nipple. Or the brake booster after the one way valve...meaning straight to the manifold. Yes you can use...

What are you tuning with? Mine did this because of low coast offset setting. . Check afr when it happens.

Also when filling up try backing up the nozzle a bit. So instead of fully in leave it out an inch or so. That helps mine out.

The head gasket could still be your culprit. There is no true way to make sure is not the issue unless you the headoff. Do a block test to see if you have combustion escaping into the cooling system. Also how are your afr? Things you can try to help it... water wetter, less ration of coolant to...

What are you running for the case fluid?

I had that issue with an unorthodox crank pulley, but my new fluidampr solved that. The one I got was used so maybe that fresh new surface is causing that...Also check if there is any oil getting on your belts? I had a front pump seeping right on a belt....almost unnoticeable... good luck

^ spot on!!! Lol. Do your maintenance! Timing belt, pulley, etc. Before any of that stuff :). And I can highly recommend a good brake upgrade to that list.

Walbo 450+3. Also I have had luck with holley pumps, just if you order one double check e85 compatibility... Most are...and mine is, but just be sure.....great bang for the buck those holleys

Welcome! Make sure you double check those ball joints! They are tricky on 2gs and I think there is a recall for them! Enjoy

I grabbed mine at the junk yard....The spliced into the harness. Works awesome and speed density imho is better than a blow through style sensor

Also there are several YouTube channels that develop how to's. Check out jafro mobile and Tom's turbo garage!

I know it's been 4 years, but how did it work for you turboterror99?

im ordering one right now! lol How does it fair with a turbo blanket on the hotside as well?

If You can run your oil pump with a drill you could maybe get the clog to come out. Just make sure you balance shift are deleted and timing belt is off. You should definitely see oil come out of the passages when doing this.

Is remember seeing one in extremepsi.com under oem parts. It's a long shot because it was a while back. Good luck.

At higher rpms the vacuum activates the fuel solenoid to increase fuel. I would check you are getting vacuum there first. Which a big vacuum leak can cause high idle and no activation of the solenoid. Do a boost leak test, i know it's a non turbo, but at low psi it can help you find the leak.

Also when looking at the carrier bearing look at the u-joints, and the rubber bushings that hold the bearings in place. I've had the rot and let the bearing clunk. Good luck!

The Biss screw can be bought for under 20 dollars with the cap that you are pointing at. If you are looking to replace it, you can unscrew it and poke it through with a thin wire from the inside of the throttle body. Good luck

Mine was doing that and it was a loose battery cable! lol

I agree make sure that torque wrench is good man, and definitely remove heads and add the ARP's makes for a better "sandwich" of the head gasket.

are you running a smaller underdrive pulley? this can potentially burn your alternator. concerning the O_2 sensors once again are you are not running stock boost right? do you have a wide band?

It is always good to check if there is any obstructions on the hoses leading to the heater core. Also in the DSM mention there is a system of vacuums that control the passages of the air intakes to the cabin. with that being said you can test the lines for vacuum with a mighty vac or by removing...

sweet keep the dsm's going man

did you run something thru your intake system like seafoam? its pretty strange that all the sensor went bad at once concerning the intake area of your car. In my opinion instead of replacing all the sensor i would test them first with a multi meter.other than that i cant really put my finger in...

looks like you need new rotos either way :thumb: but for the future i just use a mallet and hit the edges it works everytime ( considering i live in florida :p) sorry about your rotor though

you can try to jump the solenoid in the starter? if your bendix is rotating, but not engaging then most likely messed up the starter. where your starter would spin, but not engage. Now if your motor is turning and trying to start youll see movement of the belts. if the belts are moving check...

I removed mine on my first DSM and one day i was playing in the mud and my window was covered. so i went to reach for the wiper button and guess what i took it out, then i proceeded to back up without noticing a tree right on my blind stop. that day sucked, so unless you are really into weight...

I would go buy a $1.99 can of engine degreaser and clean the motor. after that i would look at normal areas where DSM's tend to spring up leaks. first the damn oil cap that never seems to seal properly(mainly the rubber seal or the tabs go bad). then a common at least for me is the dipstick can...

ok for the transmission i would go with synchromesh, which is a product design for the transmission that keeps the synchros coated. for the coolant stay away from dexcool and just put the regular green stuff. the green stuff has to be mixed with water according to the temperature of where you...

you can start the car, then pull the battery terminals off. by doing this you can tell if the battery is bad, if the car stalls is your alternator and if it keeps running is your battery. hopa that helps