I am still prepared to pull the head if I need to but, seeing as how my green looks I want to start there first, before tearing into a possible perfect working motor. Sucks too because it was such a fun turbo. I really loved it, all I wanted from them was to see if there was anything they would...

The motor when purchased had zero miles, I have an invoice for everything that was replaced, now the motor did sit for a yr before it being installed and when I went in to install my cams the while top end still had oil on all the cam journals, lifters, etc. I was prepared to pull the head...

I've never got around to installing my oil pressure gauge, so I read off the factory pos, but the balance shafts are removed so that may answer it's probably a little high. The fp red inline filter also acts as a .125" restrictor, their recommendation. In all my years in the honda game I've...

Hello fellow tuners and boost heads, I come to you guys for a little input from the guys that have been in the game a long time.Back in 2013 I had purchased my fp hta green, fp race manifold, fp feed line, fp inline filter (red), fp blue drain line all at the same time. Now I did not use this...

I'm running a fp hta green, my global fuel went from -47 to -34...min/maxoct tables were changed, there is a calculator on ecmlink.com to help you your global settings. I actually started off by using my 91 map and changing global fuel...my car actually fired right up, from there my tuner took...

The biggest change I've seen from how I dialed in my car how he did it was in the sd table, I need to look into the direct access area and see what else he did. I had a good grasp on how to tune until he started messing with my car, but it runs great and have no complaints lol

I am currently running these same injectors I am currently on e85 but I still have some old logs and settings from when I was on 91pump...I am also on speed density but when I had first gotten my tuned self tuned, my global fuel was -57 and dead time at 470 this was on the stock intake manifold...

After a few months of driving around on 91 I decided to retune for e85 since I was already set up for it I really didn't have to do too much. I was debating if my 1120 fic would be enough to push me to 500hp or not, but there was only one way to find out. The transition to e85 was very easy for...

Now once I broke my motor in it was time to dial in my 91 oct tune. I had found out that my knock sensor had some goo coming out the back and was fighting phatom knock but we got her tuned. Car on 91oct according to link was about 370hp @ 20psi. Let me tell you the hta green spools very nice...

So after everything was bolted in it was time to find me a new tuner that could remote tune my car for me, I did find a local well 500 miles away that works for b&l tuned in kc, but before that I attempted to get her running myself and figured I could use my old tune and just make the necessary...

Well guys after my last post I could see I've been absent for a while...my stock 7bolt spun a bearing and locked up back in December of 2015. I did however have a built motor sitting on a engine stand ready to be swapped in. In march of this year I finally got a round to work on my baby. New...

). Any boost, vac, or exhaust leaks? Boost leak tested 5psi above your max boost with no leaks? not since startup2). Verified mechanical timing?yes3). Verified base timing?yes4). Ignition system COP or Stock Coil:stock coil Wire brand and Age:innovative lc1, sensor is 8 months old Spark...

I ended up replacing the damn water pipe with a stock one and capped off the unused ports for the oil cooler...thanks to everyone that helped.

Well the time has come and I have finally got the car running. In a totally noob mistake I could could not get this to start, found out I had the firing order wrong LOL. Anyways after a short scare of hearing the lifters tap and a few minutes at idle it finally went away. About 5 heat cycles...

Thanks for everyones replys. I will use the original fitting off the block and the fitting just to the right of the water neck as a feed and return for my turbo thank you.

Anybody?

Since I'm not using a water cooled oil filter housing can use the water neck fitting for a return? And use the block fitting like it was originally as a feed?

Ok guys so my new motor came with a water pipe that has the original coolant lines cut and welded up because the owner before me did not water cool the turbo and had a foward facing ofh. Now my hta fp green that's going onto my new motor needs to be water cooled.. can I use the circled lines to...

I know this has been a while, did you ever figure out where the constant wire ran from? I'm in the same boat as you and I'm tearing into the car to find where it goes.

Compression is stock, I do have access to e85 and the fuel setup for it, walbro 400 stainless 6an line from tank to rail, fuel lab fpr and filter with fic 1120s. I though about maybe the jmf street manifold but if there really is no gains in midrange then I'll keep the stock. I don't plan to rev...

Balance shaft have been deleted and all maintenance items are brand new, hg, tbelt pulleys timing tensioner and water pump are brand new. Arp head studs also in check. I am currently waiting on my topline revised lifters to come in. I was wondering about a smim and a bigger tb then a 1g that I...

Ok guys so my stock 140k 7 bolt had enough and I'm currently awaiting my replacement motor...here are the specs on the engine...mahle pistons, eagle rods, eagle forged crank, the head has jun springs and the rest is stock. I will be installing my fp2s out of my stock engine but I want to know...

In checking to see why I have no 12v to my stereo, why my heater doesn't work and door locks don't work (checked fuses, relays etc). Fuses are good. I pulled fuses and checked with a test light with the key on and off. I found this blue plug under the carpet close to the fuse box. I have no...

Ok so I found some info on testing the new o2 sensor I bought basically it was to check for continuity between the 2 white wires which were for the o2 heater I believe...well I didn't have any continuity, so I ordered another new o2 sensor. I also checked to see how much voltage I had at the...

If this matters here is a log of a 1st through 4th gear wot pull.

ok so i posted a log that i captured last night, but this is with no narrowband sim. I want help to diagnose why my front o2 is not cycling. I replaced the original one because of the same thing. The replacement o2 senosr is a bosch from orileys. Tell me what you guys think. I like to add that i...

With the non 95 ecu you would run your plug wires and injectors like normal. The 95 ecu is the one that needs to have the swapped plug wires but the injectors being switched I don't understand. Just out of curiosity you said that you just bought this car...check to make sure that the crank...

I have a 95 tsi with a 97 tsi motor...the spark plug wires need to be swapped around If using ecmlink, not sure if that goes for the stock ecu or any other form of management or not. Then in link you have to tell the ecu that your using a non 95/96 cam angle sensor. I know without doing that my...

Ok thanks for the clarification. If I do move my lc1 to the front what settings do I adjust for disabling the rear o2, lock the rear o2 voltage etc. or does that not matter. Thanks again for the help. Hopefully I can get this car dialed in perfect for my cruising needs. Wot is just fine at 15psi...

Where I'm getting confused on locking open loop is that in misc tab the little explanation next to it says it effectively disables front o2 signal which to me since in trying to use my rear location mounted lc1 wideband and use its signal to simulate nbo2 that's what I would need to do...see...

Ok fellow tuners I have a really quick question concerning the narrowband simulation on ecmlink v3. I have a brand new Bosch o2 in the front location that does not oscillate, my innovative lc1 is in the rear location and wired into ecmlink to the rear o2 pin. Here's where I run into trouble, to...

First thing first...replace the timing belt,timing belt tensioner, balance shaft belt and tensionerand water pump,headgasket wouldnt be a bad idea., you never know when it has been replaced unless the previous owner has recently done it. Then from there I'd probably give her a full tune up...

I would at least try and mock it up first and see where your restrictions are. If it looks like everything will clear cut out an opening through wherever you need to on the radiator support...but if it looks like you will not be able to use it no matter how you mock it up then don't cut nothing...

You say you hear a loud click, you mean at the ignition switch area or under the hood?

You could have a bad transmission mount...have someone run through the gears while you look at the mounts and see if your transmission moves. I would also check your fluid level make sure she's not low, I know that would cause bad shifting not sure if that would cause it to jerk though.

I had just recently got my tsi running and tuned and I had a horrible idle due to the biss turned out all the way, i screwed it in all the way in and it went away. Since then backed it out just a bit ro adjust my idle.

You didn't by chance disconnect the crank position sensor did you?

I don't ever recall I've seen them made of metal only plastic...stmmotorsports has the plastic biss screws for sale.

Your probably going to have to cut into the radiator support, similar to how the vsrf kits are on the passenger side...can you post up a pic of the intercooler to get a better idea

Here's a quick screen shot of one of my datalogs...I don't know how to post them so I hope a screen shot works...any Wiseman out there have any input?

No 93 but there is an e85 station two blocks away but as of right now my 1120s are at 65 percent duty cycle at 40 psi fuel pressure. Problem is it feels really strong and I love it, Thanks for the response.

Last time I felt with them was last summer and yes they took a while to respond. I just keep calling eventually they pick up. I'm on their stage 3 kit for my 95 tsi awd and I love it.

That looks real close to my fp hta green with punishment racing o2 and mvs tial. To me it looks like you have more room then mine.I hope my upload works. Fp race manifold and fp hta green.

Hello everyone, first off let me say this is one of the best and most helpful forums for our platform. With that said on to my question. This past Saturday I had my 2g talon remote tuned by taptec tuning, anyways my mod list is current and here's how she did. I have a 13.5 psi spring and it's...

http://vfaq.com/mods/BISS-2G.htmlHope this helps

Order your pulley according to what motor you are running. Also I had a squeal on start up and It turned out that the ac tensioner was going bad or something because my timing cover had a groove in it from where the tensioner was rubbing.

Are your mounts bad..maybe the sound is from a bad mount and when you accelerate the motor rocks.

Switch could be corroded and causing a bad contact.

This may sound stupid but once before I didn't notice that I had bent my dust sheild behind the rotor and had rocks logged in there making an awful sound like how your describing.

I would hate for you to start replacing parts for no reason, but maybe start with the o2 sensor if that's where your code is coming from... from my searching I belive the cas can cause problems and not throw a code. There are plenty of how to's on this site. Maybe look into testing the o2 and...