Ive played with most of the systems out there, until youre well versed and familiar with ecu's hiw they interperit the behicles sensor signals and what types of signals a cars/engines particular sensors output and where the cam and crank sensors put out their useful part of the aognal in...

that's great to hear I'm glad to see this thread still helping people, I seartched it for my own information today as I'm having intermittent output issues with my saturn alt on my 1g

I know this post is old, but one thing i didn't see anyone mention is the adjustment of the rod from brake pedal to master cylinder.If if doesn't let the master piston return enough the brakes will heat and fluid will expand clamping them down.When i swapped to auto trans in my 1g i swapped...

1g awd trans, 5 speed, fresh synchros , shimmer tight to improve power holding. 4001gb t case 1251gb headlights, very clean 60 for the pair.1gb talon tail lights, 80 o.b.o

I snapped the shaft on a Big H1C here recentl;y when the bearings went out on my hx40 and I used it tremporarily (literally),, I was trying to push 30psi and it was falling off hard, well after a long spirited back road I got on the highway, punched it, and when the boost dropped to 23psi...

Most important thing I've found is retaining the factory fans, I have a FMIC, TRANS COOLER, AND run My A/C constantly without any issues I can idle all day long running my a/c, not even moving and it won't overheat before putting Factory fans is over heat while moving even. I've tried...

I'm still on here a few times a week really need to update my latest build log car is changed colors changed to an auto trans all kinds of things , I'm 40 years old and still pushing dsm's

1g AWD 5spd. Fresh synchros installed recently veggie my auto swap. I have a welded or stock center diff, will include which ever you'd prefer. 400 + shipping1g manual transfer case, great shape 175.001g 3 bolt LSD REAR diff 175.00 (with axles and cups 225.00)1g AWD fresh master and slave...

Another long over due update... Seems every time I start wiring a post in this thread, something happens, I lose the entire thing and give up out of frustration.The car has since been converted to an auto car, did the swap as complete as possible with TCU, WORKING POWER/economy and over drive...

Just curious if you ever pulled the codes to see why it was in limp mode, it's a hundred times easier than troubleshooting an efi system and the wiring despite looking daunting, is very simple and limited to just a few sensors

If you need any help with the wiring feel free to give me a shout, it was actually a lot easier than you'd think to make the power/economy and OD Off lights work, I just spliced into the three wires in the harness that feeds then right behind the cluster. However the manual cluster doesn't have...

That's three one I used to wire my auto swap, I even have the power/economy lights and the temp light in the fine light working :woot

And a couple things to eliminate before anybody brings them up the fluid is good at a good level does not smell burnt there is no fluid leaking.And I have also installed a very large transmission cooler along with the shift kit I'm suspecting it something in the valve body since turning the...

Ok I just converted to auto, at first while worrying the TCU and everything it seemed as if the trans was shifting very firm when the TCU was controlling things, but since I got confident that all was well, turned the boost up and started laying into the gas pedal, it seems like it's slipping...

Ben long time since I updated this, three car had now undergone a complete auto swap, has been refined and tuned in hopes of becoming shootout ready this year. Here's pics

I thought the DCCVS was responsible for the firmness of shifts? Hence the blue wire mod, or in a simple example when wiring up shifting via the kiggly mod and leaving the blue wire disconnected (one to DCCVS) shifrs are full firm.

Wow, i didn't think people be willing to spend that honestly, but that woukd be nice if i could get that out of it. I was thinking around 750 would be a fair price and was hoping that wasn't too high lol

I'm making the swap to auto, already have everything ready to go in, but I'm trying to buy a restall converter before i do the install so i don't have a dog of the lineMy question is for those running restall converters . Are you happy with the launch or do you wish you'd just bought a full...

Going to sell my manual setup to buy some auto upgrades, trying to come up with a fair price for the followingTrans T case 3 bolt LSD W/axles Flywheel with ACT2600 Pedals Master and slave cylindersPretty much EVERYTHING needed to go manual and all parts being in good condition

I was meaning trans alone , i watched your vids, and looking back i think where i had problems was the converter center nub still being caught on the crank, i didn't even think to reach in there and push it back away from the flex plate/pilot bushing.Detroit, i still plan to get that...

Awesome, thank you, now i don't have to sweat the possibility of the axle not wanting to come out of the trailing arm or anything, plus that means i can leave a way to roll the donor car eitherup on a trailer or tow it to scrap of no one wants it.Thanks

No, definitely NOT trying to leave the converter in the engine/flex plate. Also i learned a long time ago to remove both the plate and forward/aft sub frame brace. The problem i had was the rotary switch (gear selector switch/arm) hitting the frame rail before i could get the bell housing...

Are the splines for the able cups the same between 3 and 4 bolt setups? Basically I'm wondering if i need to take the axles out of the rear trailing arms or will the 4 bolt cups slide right onto the ones in my car when i remove the 3 bolt cups. I looked at the vfaq but it doesn't mention...

Just like the title asks, is there a trick or certain way to rotate something or jack something up a certain way to get the auto trans in and out? I fought removing my donor trans for quite a bit before it hap hazardly twisting and falling to the ground, definitely not what id call...

Pulling my auto donor car apart, and for some reason this tear roll stop looks bent to me, i see in a couple pics i found that they do have a slight angle, but this one just don't look right, any input from you guys with auto 1g cars

Take what Donniekak says o heart, it's the truth, unless you get exoic with custom gear sets you're basically buying treated or modified stock parts in any trans build wi some exceptions, what makes tm ld aside from treatments to the gears is how thye are assembled and with how much preload on...

Think i might sell or trade my 9;1 eagle /wiseco block to get a good converter, as stock block will handle my current power levels decently and I've got two stock 6 bolts as spares ..anyone interested hit me up

Man, i know i only got 3 to 5 pulls out of a100 shot before out would start surging from bring near empty when i team it for a full pass

the price of bottled gasses not to mention driving at least an hour to get them puts N2o out of the picture for me, so i gutess it's selling parts and saving money untill i can get a spoolinater or a restall

Thank you

Going auto very soon but can't afford a converter yet. . My combo is as follows, just wondering if I'll be able to spool enough at the line to get a decent launch.Eagle/wiseco 9:1 short block Stock had casting with BC springs and retainers Dks 264/272 cams Cyclone intake properly actuated...

Every time i try and read on this subject i find people swearing to both sides, as in yes the 1g has a lock up coverter, and no it doesn't. .So my question is can someone say definitively one way or the other. .. if its not a locking converter, then where does over drive come from??I...

Trans ha 134k miles on it. .. how much is that C2 spoolinator? And is that just a mod to the stock converter?

I wish it was a2g, but mine got totaled do this is a 91 gsx 5speed and my donor is a 92 talon tsi auto

I bought a compete car yesterday to start my swap to auto..it's Ben sitting for ten years but was well kept and ran.Questions are as follows..1.) How hard if possible is it to have the lights in the dash work for the power/economy modes, and sane for the overdrive light... do I need to swap...

I started building myself a1g (91 gsx) this year, and it's had it share of issues, well I just bought a 92 talon, to strip for its auto setup and 4 bolt rear. The other things I want to swap into my car are, the dash, condenser, cruise and turn signal switch and fuel tank (mine had broken studs...

well, i'd like to thank everyone for their input, I tore the turbo off today, put in new rings on the turbine and compressor side and the smoking is gone, I also straightened and shortened the drain tube as best I could.but when I pulled it off I found oil puddled in the first coupler from...

Yea, I wouldn't have thought the turbo would keep leaking by after fixing the kink in the return. and being that iss the worst after boost then clears right up its really had me scratching my head, I found my holset parts so ill toss new oil control rings In it or the nect coupe days and update...

Well, the turbo definitely didn't see over 50psi of oil pressure, I noticed it in the first fee minutes of warm up, and it was dumping tons of oil into the down pipe. I shut it off and inspected and found thekinked return and fixed it. I guess the only thing confusing me is how it only...

Well, spilled my built block the other day after discovering the deck needed surfaced, so I tossed in the stock 6bolt bottom end this car came with. the head is the same one I've been using recently and has new valve seals. the turbo is my wh1c with hx40 compressor wheel and cover and was...

just wondering if you can still get rocker panels and rear quarter wheel well pieces in fresh new sheet metal for the1g car? I'm to the point where i need to start welding in new metal on my 1g and with all the regular customer car work lately I would kinda like to buy patch panels if they are...

smooth shank isn't really needed, I've got a regular old bolt in mine and it's been working just fine, all it really needs to do is be able to pinch that little slot closed, so use a decent bolt and youll be fine

If anything, out the odd you're in the front where it's an open diff so you won't be stressing the rear LSD if so equipped. I'm interested in hearing any proven data aboutthis myself though

Probably my favorite part of being speed density, no Damn MAF to deal with, and you can bent your BOV, OR LIKE YOU SAID if you lose part of your IC pipe setup the car still drives perfectly, just with less power.

Buying a car from Canada into the US is hard, my friend had so much trouble with the grand national he bought that to first get it to the states he first had some paper work that he was just working on it, then when he did try to title it here there were so many issues and high fees that he...

tightened everything, trans halfshaft bracket, shocks, everything. and I have two sets of wheels, does it with both..and only when the front left wheel loses rotational speed from the others, here's a distinct rattle to it as well and after a minute or so it passes.. still baffled,thinking...

Wow! does no one even have any guesses or no similar shaking syndromes?

thisw is really a great idea to get the needed extra travel, I think one thing that plagues many people is getting the FWD or N/T slave which has a larger bore and therefor doesn't travel as far with the same amount of fluid moved.I recently swapped my 1g master push rod for a 2g rod, which at...

why not just build a small box to hold it in place on the crossmember?

great info on the diode, thanks for the info and the video fellas, I love the "sleepy eye" lookwell I went out to my car, oulled the kick panel, pulled the wires out and nothing, no diode!! did they hide it somewhere else on certain years? mines a 91