Very impressive results. that 50 shot gained you a ton of hp on the dyno... makes me wonder what my 150direct port shot will do on mine.great numbers, awesome car... another great example of how sweet these cars are!:dsm: <all hail!

This whole post is about voicing opinions and EVERY post is going to have some people that have bad things to say about everybody... nobody is perfect, i've dealt with plenty of vendors that have told me " we guarantee that the product will be there in 5 days" and then 3 weeks later it shows up...

im just saying that like a stage 4 crower or a comp 400 grind is very big for street use... yes it can work, but why not try something else?!... in fact.. since im doing a full race car now, if your interested in buying my new comp 300's that i got, let me know. i'll sell them at a really good...

Slowboyracing is in PA. check them out...www.slowboyracing.comor... 1-724-349-8417hope that helps you

i have Comp 300's and they are on the border of ideling and dying and they pull hard as hell on a T67. i would have got the 400's, but unless you want your car to idle at 1200rpms all the time, forget it. also with the 400's, if the car blips down in rpm there is no saving it by revving the...

SBR all the way, i was there for my dyno session last summer and they were building two customers motors, and there RWD motor for they shop car. they double check everything and make sure its done right. i saw it first hand and i would recommend them to anybody.if you have a DSM, you need...

i use the SBR monster core that Cragger reccomended for me and on the dyno with a 1 hour lunch break and run after run after run..( with only one fan).. AEM said that my intake temps were never over 75 degrees fahrenheit. yes... fahrenheit. and about 1 month ago when it was 38degrees here in...

good... remember what i said, always go too high. dont say it will get full boost by 5K, when in reality it probably wont. if it spools sooner... be glad.

if your going to do it... just get a ball bearing. you wont be happy with the spool time or throttle response between 1-2 shifts on a non-ball bearing GT40... remember...they made it ball bearing for a reason. most people didnt or couldnt use the gt40 until the 40R came out. in my opinion i...

a GT40 non-ballbearing is a dog.. i would say atleast 25psi around 5500 at the lowest on the non-ball bearing and that would be on a higher compression stroker motor.the 3.0L vr4 would probably spool a gt42R (depending on the size of the compressor wheel, 94mm, 102mm).. around 6000 i would...

soooo... everything i've got from this post is the turbo rocks, looks stock, and will bolt right up in place of the stock turbo. sounds like a great deal to me for someone interested in that kinda power.i have also learned that if your not a ninja... you should be! but i will have to check...

Im having the same exact problem... i mean i have done everything the other guy has. i've changed the transistor pack, a new CAS, went over the wiring... everything looks fine.im running AEM... hell i have even used a stock map with stock injectors and taken fuel out to the point that its...

if you picked up your turbo used and bought a bullseye housing... GREAT... but if your buying them new... seriously think about what your buying. buy once so you dont have to do it twice.... i have went through 3-4 turbos so far finally coming to the one im happy with.just research before...

i would have called and had a custom turbo made for you.i just got my ITS dual ball bearing GT72 Q trim in a 1.06AR T3 divided. its good for like 900hp or some stupid shit. i got lower compression on my 2.3L stroker( 7.5:1) but i should see full boost a little under 5000rpms without...

yeah but dude.... you are running 950cc injectors, 30psi of boost and your only running 12.03@ 117( best trap ). thats not that impressive by any means. im not trying to take anything away from you... im really not if your happy cool! but there are better turbos out there for the same price...

i still dont see why everyone is jumping on this HOLSET band wagon like its the new trend. i bought one of these before they even started selling them to the public... from a shop other than bullseye-power.com. i didnt even use the damn thing, and sold it right away. i still haven't seen...

we'll i got an OEM one now, but like the other guy said... you shouldnt have to.makes me wonder if there was a bad batch or something. i took apart the stock motor before i rebuilt it( had 175,000 miles on it) and the oil pump( was a stock part OEM) looked almost brand new. and my topline...

i agree with both of you (v8's are slow and Stapl3). it depends on there tuning, which can very outragiously. and a few different simple things can change a lot. people that run just wastegate spring spool there turbo a lot later, that the same setup with a boost controller. another example...

DAMN.... same thing happened to me, i had 450 miles on my bradn new motor and the oil pump seized. spun a bearing on #1 and had to buy a brand new Manley rod and redo everything... had to buy new pistons too because when the rod went it shook the piston in its bore and F'd up the rings on #1...

i would either get Wiseco's or Ross. i have built 3 motors in the last 2 years and i have only used Wisecos and Ross pistons. they work great. they had nothing to do with the reason i had to build a different motor.

I have the Comp 300's with SI dual valve springs and Manley titanium hats and pucks. it works great, the car idles fine and really doesnt cam out that much. im assuming its the same with the 400's considering that there close to each otherIntake: cam lobe lift: .239 gross valve lift .411...

ITS DBB T67 with a Q trim turbine wheel.i dont know where it spool yet.

i never had that turbo on a 9.0:1 motor... i had like a baby turbo.

I agree with what definitiveno said.im running 7.5:1 compression with my ITS dual ball bearing T67 .82 AR Q trim( its a custom turbo with a garrett T67 compressor wheel.). and have spray as well. i have the same setup as SBR's AWD black car, just bigger cams. i am going to spray a 125 shot...

Hey John, i talked with you at the Buschur dyno day. we were looking at Daves RWD car and you were telling me some things about the suspension. i just wanted to say how real of a guy you are. you can walk right up to you and talk about your times, the car and anything and your willing to take...

Shep ran an 8.14@177 this past weekend at ATCO in New Jersey.just wondering if anybody knew this or had heard this... it has been confirmed and it is his new record.congrats Shep. :thumb: Nobody can hide from his :talon:

Nate from SBR told me that a ACT 2900pressure plate with a SBR 4000 series clutch disc would be great for me... or to call ACT and have them make me a 3200.he said he has done this for some other customers and they loved it.

i reccomend the Manley/SBR rods...i have them in my own stroker and they are pretty badass. capapble of more than you'll EVER make. best street rod money can buy.and you dont need a 85lb/min. turbo... stay with a FP RED, i have a T67/T4 (75lbs/min) on mine, along with nitrous and its way...

i have the 1011400's! but i havent started the car yet.should be AMAZING though.i have heard around 45 more whp on a stock block, head on a 20g car. with only 4 psi over stock boost. of course supporting mods.

well.. i do have a slim-line 14" fan.. flows upwards of 1360cfm.should damn near cool anything i could ever want.My car is mostly designed for drag racing.. i.e welded center diff, soon to be twin disc exedy kevlar clutch. but i do love to drive it on the street and scare the hell out...

OK.. i need a new radiator because my Full-Race manifold is in the way of the coolant connection on the top. sooo.. i was wondering if i could run a civic crx or some small aluminum radiator( i.e.. koyo, fluidyne, or something like that). I know i have to fabricate, but as you'll probably look...

Thats because the blades on the compressor are designed for a diesel... they were never intended to be used in a gasoline designed vehicle. i guess it still works fairly well.if you think about it... i have a GT42 that is mainly designed for semi trucks, marine motors, and whatnot.. but...

if thats the case.. most lancer 1-3 turbos came with a small 16g with 510cc yellow top injectors.. its probably a small with a 14b housing that has been bored out or soemthing.

could be a 14B, small16G, big 16G, 18G= all in TDO5H housings.Thats just the casting numbers on the compressor cover.. if its got a lot of blades on the compressor wheel.. its a 14b. other than that.. get a picture of it.

he has your outlet gasketi grinded the o2 housing down myself when i had it because it was a shitty fitand the flapper inside- the wall had to be grinded down for the flapper to clear because it would only open 1/4 inch!its the bullseye-power holset actuator too.everything is...

This is getting rediculous. Here are the simple facts!if you like the turbo and want to buy it.. buy itif you dont like the turbo and dont want to buy it.. dont buy it.What is so hard to figure out here eveyone, why argue?!... this isnt going to be a "magical 16g" that produces...

we already tried that... and it didnt work, but we'll try it again.it has around 2-3 turn of pretention on the arm and it still doesnt want to run anything low. By the way... anybody that was looking for a spool time- it gets 22-25psi by 4600-4800rpms. stock head,cams, everything.

one line is for the vacuum to the intake manifold... the other line is to the stock boost solenoid. you can disconnect the stock boost solenoid and either just run the vacuum line to the turbo, which will let the turbo run whatever boost the wastegate spring can handle. or you can hook up a...

my buddy bolted his Holset HX40 on last night( my old one that i sold him). It was raining here so we didnt get the full example of power.. his car is FWD and it would spin the tires in 4th gear. The wastegate arm is pretentioned just enough to allow the lowest boost possible and the turbo...

you can get away with 650cc or maybe even use a little bigger 750cc's.... i have a T67 and im gonna be running 850cc's and around 35psi if i can... i might have to step up to 1000cc's though.650cc+22psi pump gas... great power and good driveability for the street.

" Shut the hell up".. come on now.. grow up. prove its NOT cheap and more people would stop talking about it... until then its just like any other new turbo... prove its NOT cheap and people will buy it. if its not a true MHI.. then who makes the center section, bearings.. 270 thrust im...

I heard that it was on a stroker from the guy i bought mine 8 months ago from. No problem though...

ok great! i appreciate the fast response.But what does it take to make those numbers?.. i know that the guy with 549hp @20psi has almost everything under the sun in mods. I.E.. stroker, built head, cmas and so on.

^ you have to drill in the back of the compressor cover, then tap the housing and put 4 small bolts on to hold it... thats what i had to do when i had my HX40. and that was with the Bullseye-power actuator.Hey, just wondering if someone is EVER going to prove without a doubt that these...

Basically whats happening is you dont have enough tension on your wastegate arm and the pressure inside your turbine housing is pushing that flapper open just enough that air is bypassing it and running out your dump tube. Get more tension on that arm and your problem will be solved.

Do you want 700hp with spray? 700 wheel hp? whats the deal.... i would do something like a T66 with a T3 housing. you wont spool a GT40 on a 2.0L and still drive the thing on the street.. that turbo is a full out drag turbo( nothing more than 1320). Plus, if Shepherd is using a GT42R.. You...

sounds to me like you need something like a 54 trim or a 52 trim turbo.. I.E.. check out SBR or FP or something like that. dont get yourself into a turbo that is way to big for you or that you wont spool on the 2.0L till 4800rpms. you only want 400hp, then get a turbo that is within 400hp...

My buddy has the same turbo, and he gets 14-16psi right before 4000rpm, stock block, head, cams, intake manifold. in my opinion that is kinda late for only a 48lbs/min. turbo! another buddy of mine has a FP green with built head, stock 7 bolt, stock intake manifold, 264/272 cams and he gets...

Alan.. you have the bottom end to throw down a lot of horsepower... this is true. However, you will have lots of trouble spooling/ daily driving the car on the street without a stroker motor. Unless to do a small A/R hot side with a Garrett GT center ball bearing section, there is no way you...

Alan, you need to turn the boost up to 25+psi and then see where your at with that turbo. a 14B is 10 times more efficient at that boost than your 60-1. The 60-1 compressor wheel is for HIGH boost and when your not running high boost its way out of efficiency. your probably choking the turbo...