What if he was braking for something you didn't actually see?? Taking things to that level is a little ridiculous. Was the other lane open? Your on a motorcycle for goodness sake. 3 car lengths at 70, is considered tailgating. Your supposed to have 1 car length for every 10 miles per hour...

Pull the balance shafts?? Run a couple of oil changes, see if you can get most of the oil out of the engine.If it's just balance shaft bearings, I'd try it before trying an extreme swap like that.

I concur. It's time to do a boost leak test. Your probably have vac leaks in places you've never thought about.

check the classifieds. You can get a set of used 2g rods and pistons fairly cheap on there. They have a little higher compression than the 1g set.Also I've had problems with the alumiglide bearings and would recommend clevite 77 bearings.There are many things to consider when doing...

No line boring is a little different that boring your cylinder walls. Line boring is done to your main cylinder caps to correct any out of roundness. They shave a small amount of metal off of your main caps and rebore the caps in a straight line again. It has nothing to do with the pistons...

At the machine shop your going to want to get it decked, honed and hot tanked. Don't skimp or you'll wind up unhappy.Decking will give you a flat surface to mount you head on.Honed will give your cylinder wall a nice surface for your rings to ride on.He described above what hot...

Well the machine shop that turned it checked all tolerances, and I plastiguaged it in two different locations. Guess I'll know more when I take it out. What is the weakest link in the bottom end? Apparently something isn't right. Just trying to make sure it doesn't happen again. It ran so...

Alright so rebuild number 2 has died after running beautifully for almost 3000 miles now.The car still has good oil pressure, but it has spun a rod. I'm at a loss, so now I'm turning to you guys for thoughts on why it keeps happening.For starters crank was uncut just polished, all...

Did you check the caps in your new ecu before you installed it?

That seriously looks like water damaged gear oil that has been driven on for a couple of years.

:thumb: Violent comedy. Awesome. ROFL <---me the whole movie.

Start at the manifold. If this is your first test do it in small sections. If you have alot of small leaks even it will never build up enough pressure for you to hear.

Thnx for the pics spooln. Now its time to make an avatar.

Nice meeting everybody. Wish I could have stayed longer, but to all I didn't get to say bye to bye.

Pull a compression check w/ the car hot. Might have a slightly cracked head.

You need to ground out the ECU otherwise the computer will used corrected timing and you will be setting ECU timing and not base timing. You should ground out the plug and do it right. At idle your timing will be roughly 20* BTDC with the plug not grounded.

The CAS was easy. I have a hall effect type in my 90 works great.

I win, but my parts are on order. :thumb:

Alright football, bbq tools, directions, fuel rail, and maps loaded in car. Hopefully should be there in time. Going to sleep so I can try to make it by 11. >3 hour trip for me but the dsm crowd in my area is like 4 people.

Makes me sick.... Really really sick......

If the bolt comes out clean with the extractor all your going to do with the tap is run it in to clean the threads just like a normal bolt. It really is that easy. If it gets tight, back it out half a turn and try it again.

Not too little pressure too much pressure.

Anybody have a 1ga drivers side turn signal assembly mine is cracked and I need one.

I have a couple of fuel rails. I'll bring em. I'll see if they're 90 or 91.

Well I wonder if when you were spinning it by hand if you didn't mistake valve for compression and bend them lightly?

Most chain auto parts stores will rent you a valve spring compressor buy it and take it back. I know autozone my way does. No need to build one.If the springs were weak, the rockers could have jumped causing the valve to bend.Were the valves bent by the cam or by the piston?

Tank was empty when it sat for two years. There is water in your gas, get some dry gas and add it to the system. If you store your car for any amount of time you should have a full tank.Condensation.

Did you replace the springs. Its still possible to get float on springs at a low rev with bad springs which is why I asked about spring tension. Maybe the rockers were a bit off when you installed the cams and not set properly on the lifters. I don't think bleeding was the problem, especially...

Just did it with my Palm IIIc last week worked like a charm. Get it hooked up so you can see some logs.

Yeah I just didn't want him to do it again.Something caused it to fail now you just have to figure out what.

Definitely, going to change the oil tomorrow and watch I'll break a drain plug or something stupid. Got her put back together after she almost got me home last night. :thumb:

God I can't wait to start my 2.3 stroker for crazy turbos like these. :sneaky:

You have to get the palm desktop software. Add it to the list. It will automatically download.Palm - Support - Palm Desktop & HotSync Manager :thumb:

How's the spring rate on those exhaust valves? But at least you only bent two.

I knew the football would be a hit I'll add bbq tools to the list. :thumb:

As for your next question boost leak test time.Yes you will need to reconnect you BOV tubing. Unless you like fouling plugs and such.The two are completely different problems but are compounding.First when you boost you are loosing air and running rich. With your BOV disconnected...

Watch your oil pressure after the balance shaft delete though seems more I read the more I find out about haw bad this mod can be. Your car should have oil squirters though so shouldn't be a big deal.

OMG Wow that question slipped my mind.

How bad was #1? Does the connecting rod have any visible damage?How many miles are on the wrist pins? What are you plans for the motor? You'll have to have a machine shop press them in.

Head decked and new Head Gasket. Sounds like the head got warped. While the head is off you should plan for a new timing belt tensioners oil pump and water pump. Then you should be good to go for another 60k.

I would do a compression check on cylinder number one. You've got a misfire and bubbling fluid coming from your cap sounds like compression is making it into your cooling system.Ask your wife how high on the gauge it read, but if she is anything like mine who runs out of gas on a weekly basis...

How hot did the car get? Just the reading out of curiosity.So after the overheat your getting a misfire on cylinder 1? Water coming out of thermostat housing with the cap off? You should see if flowing but it shouldn't be coming over the top too much. <--this makes me think HG or warped...

Stay safe.

Trying raising your base idle a little bit. Your ecu might be correcting to 750 for you. And your BISS might actually be trying to idle your car at 600+. You shouldn't have to pull it out to far. just about a full turn should get you to where you want to be.Also have you checked base timing?

I haven't had the one for my ac in a while. Of course i don't have a/c and no overheat issues.On this same topic which fan is the a/c fan?

Did you replace the timing belt all associated pulleys and tensioner?

when changing that throttle body line did you accidentally hit the tps? Also check to make sure that all the plugs on the tb are dry.

Atmus Products SearchThere is a good link for the throttle actuator seals.TB Shaft Seals VFAQHere is a good link for replacing the seals.

So you can get the cam style seals from a hardware store? I don't want to pull the Throttle body apart until I'm sure I can get the seals. I didn't think they would have them there.

Let's see how bad my dsm doesn't want to make it.1. Boost leaks, but hey its driveable with boost leaks.2. Alternator decided to die today the stud in the back stripped out.3. Parking brake doesn't work anymore spring on the back came up missing. Still driveable.Guess I get...