Just found out the is a new Carolina BB.http://carolinadsm.proboards.com/Might help you out a little.:)

When, where? Weekend lunch meet? Meet at a local cruise in? Cars and coffee?Not much for the bar scene or drag strip but anywhere else maybe. I would prefer the Concord area if possible.Always nice to meet new friends.

Concord is a good area. There is a strong car scene in the area but a lot of the bigger venues are still mostly traditional muscle and not too import friendly. DSM enthusiasts are a rare breed but there are still plenty of them running around as rice or just an old car though. Our DSM scene has...

Thanks guys, The part numbers have been a big help but one more question. Anyone have the bearing numbers for a '90 fwd turbo differential carrier? The shaft numbers were posted but I didn't see the one for the carrier.

I hate a thief. Check the local pawn shops. If your tools are marked and you can prove ownership then you might be able to get some of them back at least.

You're welcome. If you can get two good sized screwdrivers behind the pulley you can alternate the two and walk it off. Or, you can get a different puller set at one of the chain stores that has a loaner tool program. Pay a deposit, use it, return it and get your deposit back. If it still won't...

If the smoke has a bluish tint and smells of oil then it is probably the turbo seals shot. If the smoke is pure white and smells "sweet" then it is antifreeze which means probably a head gasket. Either one can be costly. You can pull the piping off of your turbo and check for oil at the outlet...

Yes, a wp can rattle. Hope that is your problem and not the bearings. :pray:

Add mine to the list too. What I did to fix it was use super strengh weatherstrip adhesive ( The yellow, snotty looking stuff, not trim adhesive). You will need to clamp it down or brace it long enough to set up. It fixed all of my places except the toughest corner of the dash pad. That could...

The base of the winshield is actually a high pressure area at speed. Ask any of the old school muscle guys about cowl induction and they will tell you about it. Does this work? How about at rest or slow speed??? Heat rises plus at slow speed there may be a little scavenging effect but at those...

With the car cold when you crank it does the boiling start almost right away? If it does then it is probably the head gasket. If it has to run several minutes before it starts then the coolant may not be circulating. Did the radiator fan come on?

You took the plugs out, that eliminates hydrolock. Will the crank rotate backwards at all? You don't have to turn it far but if it moves at all with only a reasonable amount of effort then it is probably not the bearings locking it up. That doesn't mean that you don't have a problem with your...

It should show no boost in neutral. Turbos are load sensitive. With no load on them they should not build boost.

Let's try to clear up somethings here. First my post was not meant to kick you when you're down, it was meant more as kick to the rear to get you're head out of that general area and back on your shoulders where it belongs. So, sorry if you took it as a slam instead of a wake up. But since you...

Problem with meth is it doesn't help take the heat out of the air until after it is compressed. The T-25's problem is that it has to beat the air up so much to get to those boost levels that it can't maintain them with out excessively heating up componets to the level of failure. It falls off...

So now you are doing the same thing to him that you are on here complaining about having done to you? Selling him a turbo that you know is over priced (unlike your friend who may not have know that it was not worth that much because it was a knock off) . Two wrongs make it right I guess?

Man are you forgiving when it comes to a mechanic. I wouldn't have gone back after the GTP incident. I had a similar situation with a mechanic I know named Joey. I worked for an automotive parts store. I ran the delivery/sales route for the store and Joey was one of our good customers. He was...

Look man, I don't know you and I hate to bust your chops but it seems like no one else here is going to. Everyone else it seems is trying to tell you how to get out of this and if you can then great, as long as you learn a lesson from the experience. I'm not doing this to be cruel but rather as...

Easiest thing to do would be to buy a turbo car to start with. Especially if you haven't already bought a n/t car. You will probably end up with more money in a n/t conversion than you would getting a factory turbo car not to mention the time and effort of the install and making it run right...

Your car should not be making boost at idle or in neutral even if you rev it up (unless it has been modified with a two step). It should only build boost under load and the gauge should only show boost pressure then.

If the gauge reads vacuum then when the car is off it should not read -60 and at idle it should not read 0. Does this gauge have an electric sender or does it have a manual tube feed?

And clean the intercooler too if you have oil on that side of the turbo.

Hard to tell without looking at it in person. When you go to see it, take someone with you if you can to help you check it out. Any problems that you find you can then deal on the price based on that ie: Say the car's alternator light is on, it's better to assume the car will need an alternator...

Welcome to the DSM nation. Nice car and seems to be a good buy. Silver is a good color on these cars and boost is addictive. :D Like everyone has said. Read, read, read. Set a goal, make a plan and enjoy.

Double check your plug wires. Make sure you have the firing order correct. It's an easy thing to cross up and so simple alot of people don't think to check it.

No comment on the dump location but as far as the bolts being tight you have some options. You can get a chasis bolt that has a smaller head to increase the clearance in the tight spots or you can get an allen head socket bolt that uses a hex wrench to tighten. (I know you can get the socket...

Subscribed.......Just for the entertainment value.:argue::applause:

It most definitly will damage the alternator. I had to replace mine because of that. I did some searching on here and found out that the o-rings gave problems on the pump. I replaced them when I did the alternator and thought that all was good. Drove it a couple of days and my new alternator was...

You may not have gotten it all. If any oil had gunked up the dishsoap may not have cut it all and the water will not bring it all out. What I have always done is use gasoline (carb cleaner or starting fluid will work but gas is cheaper). Fill it about 1/4 the way and slosh it aroud for a few...

How did you clean out the intercooler? You have to remember that the air coming through there is under high pressure and high speed. It will pull oil out of the intercooler that you didn't even know was there.

Two steps are for manual cars to build boost and launch consistently. For an automatic car a torque converter would be what you need to help off line performance. With a 16g, a stock converter should still allow good take off with out the expense of a performance unit. But if you go to a larger...

Turbo would have been my first bet too and there may still be a little oil left in the system (intercooler maybe) from it that may clear up after a few days of burning it off. If it doesn't go away then it could possibly be valve stem seals. The oil builds up in the head when the rpm's kick the...

Bringing this one back from the dead. I just wanted to say thanks for posting the black Laser RS. Mine is just like that one (except for the bumper cover of course). I had posted a question about mirror color on 1g's (Were they gloss black or semi-gloss?) and I got mixed answers at 3 different...

Sounds like it is coming from the upper seal then. The leak is small enough that the fuel is not spraying out but is seeping and running down the outside of the injector. If the injector is not active then there should be no fuel below the pintle or disc seat to leak.

You're welcome. Glad we could help.

X2 for Julio. I run his kit on my turbo Regal with straight meth. Quality product and a good vendor. Yes, if you are tuned to use meth then you need to make sure you keep the supply checked. Running out will result in knock which can be deadly to an engine.Also, a word of caution if you are...

If the computer thinks the A/C is on for the defrost cycle then it tries to raise the idle by adding fuel and air. Without the belt on, the engine doesn't see the load so the increase that is supposed to be only a few hundred rpm actually ends up being several hundred rpm. If anything is out of...

That's what I meant when I said the spark plug tubes in the v/c. Any moisture around the base of the plug seat can cause ground issues with the plug.

Is the clutch master cylinder new? How about the lines? If they are not new then I would guess the m/c may be going bad. If it is new then it is probably just vapor locked. Did you bench bleed the system before you installed it? Crack open the lines at the m/c and see if you can get any fluid...

I've seen some bad temperature sensors cause problems like this on other makes of cars. The switch reads cooler than it actually is so the computer adds more fuel for a warm up open loop cycle which can cause a rich condition and bad idle on a warm car. The computer ignores the other sensors...

You may still have some lingering moisture somewhere. When the car sets and cools it will condense and pool. That may be enough to cause it to burp once or twice. Once it gets running the moisture dries up and no more problem until it cools again. I would suspect the spark plug tubes in the v/c...

I believe the OE (original equipment)bearing had a plastic sleeve in the center instead of the metal one. That doesn't mean the one you have is not right. Manufacturers change part designs all the time and what some people don't realize is that OEM (original equipment manufacturer) is not...

You may be able to pinpoint the problem area by first tightening the assembly to specs. If resistance is felt then back off of one main a little. If it turns freely then you know it is the problem area. If it still has resistance, tighen that one back to specs and loosen the next one and so on...

On applications where the thermostat sits vertical, it doesn't matter on the piddle valve. It is just there to allow any built up gases to escape so the cooling system does not vapor lock before the thermostat reaches operating temperature and opens up. It also helps to make sure that the...

I think you would need a 60 mm turbo at a minimum. The turbo you are talking about is stock on a 2.0 liter engine so with the 5.7 you have almost 3 times the exhaust flow at every rpm. The exhaust housing becomes a restriction and trying to boost 3 times the volume, you have to be getting close...

X2 lack of converter should not slow you down.Are you sure everything is matched up? You said you have put other injectors in there. Is the computer right for those injectors? Since they were used are you sure they are good?

How's your clutch adjustment? I think 2g's suffer from pump-up so maybe something is not letting the pressure release from the slave cylinder or maybe the release bearing is not working properly.

As a stop gap until you get a new cable you can put a small cable clamp in front of the ball to take up the slack. You can get one at about any hardware deparment.

You can do it. You will be limited on how much boost you can run (probably 6-8 psi) or you will get into knock problems with street gas because of the heat created by the act of compressing the air. Also performance will suffer greatly due to heat soak from a "cold" car to a warmed up car. The...

Cars use two kinds of fuel managment systems. One is speed density such as the Hondas that do not have a MAS. The second, of course, is a mass airflow system. The difference is that a s/d system uses several sensors; ie: map (manifold absolute pressue), tps (throttle position sensor), and mat...