What year auto trans? 97-99 have a different transfer case

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Before my dsm I owned an 04 srt4. I loved it. Easily modded and reliable.I've never heard about the water pump issues. The only issues I've heard about are the wiring to the isc controller fray and cause a check engine light. Covered by Chrysler when I had mine done. Another issue is the shift...

It looks like a generic ebay kit. Its more miss than hit with those turbos. You never know when they will go.

Look inside the box for a valve seat. You need that to seal that gap.

It will not work unless you bend the actuator arm correctly. On the ebay exhaust housings the wastegate arm is raised up higher than a MHI unit. On my buddys 1g he used a ebay 7cm housing on his 14b. We had to use the ebay actuator for it to line up correctly.

That intercooler is not worth it. I owned a full tilt stock turbo srt-4 before my current talon, The stock intercooler flows well,but it just wont cool for decent power. For the cost of getting the intercooler, and having a shop weld up custom pipes and getting the couplers you could almost have...

No it does not matter. Looks like a nice set-up btw:thumb:

It really depends on if you drive the car everyday. Me personally I like to go step by step. That way you see see what power is made by what part, and knowing that the money was well spent.

Im in the same boat. I have no clue why my fluid is changing to the color your describing. Same thing here with the engagement. Anybody else have this problem and find the solution?

Do you have anything to log with so we can see if somethings up? Have you checked the knock sensor?

First gear is short and has a small load period for the turbo to boost. Boost almost always will be low in first and sometimes second. Thats why its recommended to set your boost controller in either 3rd or 4th gear.

What do you mean by just found out that it was an ESI? How long have you owned the car? To stay on topic you might gain 5-6 horsepower from it. Whats up with the zip tie holding the intake pipe?

Those pistons look like 1g turbo pistons. 2g turbo pistons I believe say 63dT f1 on top of them

Put a head on it with some oil in the pan and do a compression test. Other than that I dont know what else to do besides maybe take some rod caps off to see what kind of condition the bearings are in.

Its possible that one may have broken off a while ago. Get some grade 8 heat treated bolts so that it wont happen again. Get a new gasket as well.

I had the same thing happen to me with a freshly rebuilt engine. I had oil everywhere! It ended up being the oil feed on the head for the turbo. Oil was so clean I didnt see it coming from there.

Syncros are wearing out

I had the same thing happen to me last year. I spent a year building my first 1g just to have a lady pull out in front of me after having the car on the road for a week. I would go with option 2 of having them total out your car with you keeping the car. I did the same thing and ended up finding...

Some TCUs are prone to cap leakage. The one that was in my car before the 5spd swap had a leaking cap which in turn ate up the boards pretty bad. Just open it up and look for any signs of leakage. I have one here that I could snap some pics of to show you what im talking about.

Thats not a 16g by any means

it will but the shift points will be different because of the power differences between the engine types

I really like that setup! Ive been beating myself to death about what kind of lighting I want to do with my 1ga. If you dont mind shoot me a PM with a list of stuff and maybe a wiring diagram so I can replicate your setup.

Yes everything will be fine as stated above. i used my rear auto 3 bolt axles for my manual swap and everything went great.

I agree with changing out the couplers for the red or black. Other then that everything looks great.:thumb:

Are you using a stock mitsubishi feed line from the head. Or did you change it over to -an lines?

I just bought a logger from this site. Excellent guy with free fast shipping:thumb:. Heres the linkDatalogging Kits

I run an evo 8 mas on my 1g and love it. I have a chip from keydiver. Ill never go back to a 2g mas. Wiring is simple and similar to the 2g. I say go for it as long as you get a chip and or link with it.

I did a recent 1g awd auto to manual and only changed the tranny mount. I have noticed though that my front motor mount looks like its 2 inches off center when everything is bolted together. Everything works great so im not complaining.

I say put up some pics. Those motors are very nice if taken care of. Ive heard that timing belts are hard to keep on them because of the very stiff valve springs. Nice car either way.

Yeah just get longer hoses and make everything secure and you will be fine.

Yeah as long as you have a cat and a good running engine you will be good. I recently passed Maryland emissions with a 3" turbo back exhaust and all of my emissions equipment removed besides the cat. I did however have a tank of 100 octane in the tank.

I actually did this while my current motor was rebuilt. Non turbo all wheel drive. Talk about a turd :coy:. On my 1g everything was drop in.

Everything is pretty straight forward. You will need the following to do the swap:1g Non turbo or turbo FWD manual transmission 1g Manual shifter assembly 1g Clutch pedal set 1g manual shifter cables 1g manual starter plate 1g manual starter 7 bolt flywheel New crank bolts for manual...

My car does the same thing. Balance shafts removed and also have a Fidanza aluminum flywheel. It sounds bad but I cant determine what it is. Car runs and accelerates perfectly.

Like eveyone else says, avoid the ebay kit unless you like to replace stuff.. Get a stock 2g turbo manifold and t25 and go from there. You can easily piece together a kit with used stock Mitsubishi parts and stay under $1k

Its your EGR solenoid I think

As the tranny not shifting id check out the TCU. The TCU is the transmissions control unit. If there is a problem the TCU will go into limp mode and you will only have 1 forward gear neutral and reverse. They sometime will go bad. Open the casing and see if there is any noticeable damage. As for...

The plugs are the same. I swapped my green top out with the black top with no problems after my green somehow took a dump on me.

That manifold looks like it has a t3/t4 flange on it. You can buy an adapter off of ebay for a decent price

The plug may go to the cruise control, or maybe the a/c unit. Trace wires from the plug too the harness. Usually that helps to find the general area the plug could go to.

Cut open the oil filter and look for material in there.

Have you checked your ECU?

Whats is this threads purpose?

Like the guy above says. In the search type in Eclipse o2.Heres a link to oneTurbo Elbow Outlet O2 Exhaust DSM Eclipse Talon T3/T4:eBay Motors (item 150327751633 end time May-19-09 19:03:49 PDT)

The thermostat is probably bad. If it sat for that long then more then likely its getting stuck shut.

I say just stick with your stock cams. Usually with the autos they are a downgrade from a manual car.

As long as you have a rear diff that matches the tranny that you have you will be ok. Auto tranny to Auto rear diff. Manual tranny to a manual rear diff. You can get a full stainless braided line from the master cylinder to the trans from extremepsi.com

Pull off you oil filter and cut it open. See if there is any metal shavings in it.