Stripped out the feed line Allen Bolt from the oil filter housing. Great start to my morning LOL

Pry bar/Flat head screwdriver. Wedge it between the transmission and the axle cup to remove.

Check ALL of your bellhousing bolts. I've been down this road with prothane mounts and have experienced the exact same symptoms you are. There is a good chance some bolts have vibrated loose.

I know on a 1g if you don't unbolt the gusset pictured it makes it damn near impossible to install the transmission without a ton of frustration. It requires some pretty creative twisting to get it past it.

I lean over the fender and grab it from the top. Pick it up and twist it around a little to slide it on. I've had way to much practice unfortunately so it works great for me. Takes about 15-20 seconds or so from it being on the ground to being on the dowel pins and ready to be bolted up.

I purchased a 1g AWD with this same problem years ago and racked my brain on a cheap and effective repair as I didn't have the ear to try welding it back onto the block. I came up with an extension of the front engine mount bracket made with thick steel that allowed me use that front bell...

92 AWD Talon92 Galant VR-4

I'm local and may be interested in stuff, PM me your number.

4700 for a FWD with rust on the strut towers is way to expensive in my opinion. You can come across a MUCH better deal, be patient!

I currently have an SBR cast manifold that is flanged but not drilled for a 38mm wastegate. I'm currently in the process of finalizing decisions and ordering parts for a complete build on my 92 AWD. I've arrived at an HX40 in a BEP .55 AR housing for the turbo setup. I decided to stay bolt on to...

:applause: Many Thanks. In your opinion with 500-550awhp goal in mind would you go with an 8 blade HX40 in a .55 BEP or with something like this 35r? The adapter plate thing scares me but from what I can find people had good luck with the kit a long time ago.

Is this a real Garrett DBB GT3582(35r?)? I'm in the market for a bolt on turbo kit and I'm considering this turbo (old bolt on AMS kit I'm told, that uses a t3 adapter)... I've been considered the 8 Blade HX40 in a .55 ar BEP housing but having a hard time finding one. Are these turbo's...

I was charged twice as well, it dropped off in about 4 days for me.

I got mine today, they look awesome. Very quick shipping too :hellyeah:

I had the same problem, check out my post to join date ratio ROFL You'll get them eventually:hellyeah:

I would stay steer clear of DSMGraveyard, feel free to read some of the reviews to get a better understanding of why I say this.Nothing wrong with 100k+ mile engine having bolt-ons, what's its current condition? If the engine has healthy compression, not a lot of blow by and has all regular...

Nice, can't wait to get mine! :D

I ordered a set of the stainless, awesome price!

The ECMTuning wiki is a great resource.Here is the page on the base injector data. baseinjectordata [ECMTuning - wiki]

Most of the oil was drained, no silver in the small amount left. I was told this engine ran good, but it was pulled from the car so I didn't personally get to hear it. No initial discoloration noticed on the rods that would indicate a spun bearing. I guess I'll start tearing deeper into it.

I've done a few basic 4g63 builds so I will be pulling everything apart to inspect, mainly interested in possible ideas as to where the large chunk came from. I'd guess a severe turbo failure in the past.

I bought a "GOOD RUNNING" 6 bolt to swap into my project AWD and upon initial dis-assembly I've found some metal (it is magnetic) on the oil pickup. I took some pictures and was wondering if anyone had any ideas on what the huge chunk is... It looks like a big porous chunk of carbon almost...

Here's a great thread with the basics of what your getting yourself into.http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/1g-n-t-tech/55459-4g63-nt-engine-how-make-turbo-kit.html

If the car jumped timing there could be bent valves, I would double check your timing marks and do a compression check. It could be your auto tensioner failing or the initial tension not set correctly. Did you measure the tensioner rod after turning the car over by hand 6 times and waiting 30...

I briefly looked into this a long time ago, it did require some handy work for the center mounting brackets from what I can remember. If you have a donor 1ga car you can pull the necessary wiring and cut the brackets from it.

I've toyed around with the idea a full windows 8.1 based tablet in the 8'' range placed in the DIN spot to log. You can typically find them on sale for around $200 just be sure to get one that runs a full version of Windows and not Windows RT.

You can use Ecmlink to get a sweep of what the TPS is doing by voltage. You should be getting around .63 at closed throttle (if your TPS offset is set right, or you can physically loosen the screws and adjust). With the accelerator cable properly adjusted you should be close to or at 5v at WOT...

The Ecmlink application is designed to run on Windows, OSX, and Linux. Chromebooks run on Chrome OS which cannot run windows based applications. If it's an Intel based Chromebook and not ARM then you may be able to set WINE up to run it, but even then I wouldn't bet on it.

You have a vacuum leak, had a similar issue that didn't show up under my initial boost leak tests but turned out to be a lower injector seal.

Never tried redline but you can't go wrong with Diaqueen.

It's not a 1g but at least it's a DSM! Will be interesting to see where this goes, good luck!

I've typically seen around -18 to -20 at idle on a stock motor. It's typically lower on cars with cams because of valve overlap.

You will only need the belt that goes around the alternator, water pump, and crank if you are removing the power steering and air conditioning.

It may not say it directly on the title but it is identifiable by the VIN number..

I don't think your ideas sound unreasonable. Whatever route you go be sure to look into the future and use quality parts. You don't want to have to buy the same thing over and over again.

Have you tried to reprogram the remote?

Provisions for the front and rear roll stop mounts are not on the 2g 7bolt block. It's not a simple bolt in affair.

Fix the small leaks, it will help a lot. I personally have never been able to get mine to hold boost without slowly leaking down with similar results to what your experiencing...

If it's a newer Auto Meter gauge it should have a small hole or two in the back of the gauge that originally when purchased had a plastic piece holding the gauge zeroed when shipping... Have you tried putting a thin piece of plastic into that slot to see if it zero's the gauge out? If it doesn't...

I had another dealer try cutting the key and it worked just fine. Was a bit more expensive ($20) but they gave me the code If I ever had to have another cut.

I do know the old key opened both my doors daily without issue. The hatch lock is froze up though I never use it. I'm going to try to have a couple different dealerships cut a key and see if that works later today.

I lost the only key I had to my 92 Talon and had a key cut based on the vin from a local Chrysler dealership today that gave me an odd issue. The key would LOCK the driver side door, but it would not unlock it. It wouldn't do anything in any of the other locks or ignition. Could this be an...

I did some more reading and searching, so just to be clear it's NOT the vtrim? I've found very little information about the T04E50 wheel in the T04B housing. I've always read about the problems with the v-trims surging, yet this turbo has been on the car for 4 years and has NEVER surged and is...

Is this a bullseye t04b v-trim?

Look into the Coolant temperature sensor. It's a two prong plug on your thermostat housing that tells the ECU what temperature the car is.

Right now I'm running 21 psi or so but falling to about 16-17psi by redline. I guess I should try tightening the wastegate down a little as I up the boost. I'm keeping an eye out for cams right now hoping to snag a set. I'm not totally set on meth injection but from what I've read it should...

I'm basically trying to fully utilize what modifications I have. This car is not a daily driver, but a weekend warrior. I've seen some older threads when the vtrims were first coming out and were all the buzz and I know that initial hype seemed to be met by some disappointment. I'd like to see...

I'm not sure what happened with the picture, but here it is again. I don't have emission testing and was considering drilling my flanged sbr manifold for a 38mm wastegate with a dump if I can't reach my goals on the vtrim.

I'm thinking of changing my turbo setup (still not completely decided yet, currently running a bullseye vtrim right now but unsure if i can reach my goals on it). I was wondering if anyone knew which o2 housing this is? The o2 sensor is installed in the downpipe itself and the flange doesn't sit...

This car is Manual.