As long as the ports are plugged it should be ok.One place that could be overlooked is on the underside of the throttle body in between the manifold and throttle body. When I started tinkering with my car I figured out, after much cursing, the gasket between the TB and Mani had to be positioned...

I understand the work thing. Another thing you could do if you can't get a hold of a BLT is to use a vacuum hose. Just a foot or two. Turn the car on, put one end of the hose real close to your ear and run the other end around where there could be a leak. Wont help too much with small leaks but...

Hmm.. I know this is an overly used question on this site, but have you done a boost leak test?

Way over. If I remember correctly a stock n/a runs around 180 psi.

The piece with that line going to it is the slave cylinder. Two bolts hold it in place on the bottom front of your transmission. If what I read is right, you pull the boot back and it leaks, it needs to be replaced. It should not leak at all. And that system should be filled with brake fluid.

Yeah, check the ECU just to make sure it's not leaking and it looks good. It sounds more like you're getting too much air at idle. Make sure you're CAS is adjusted properly (correct timing). Could also be something as simple as needing to replace the BISS o-ring or the BISS just being screwed...

Sounds like your ISC is going crazy trying to adjust your air coming in. Where did you smell the burning? Inside the car or in the engine bay?

Could be a series of things. If you don't figure it out, give an update and I'll start giving you my check list.

Maybe it's wired wrong as far as the gauge, not too sure on that one. I noticed that you said it's in the front O2 sensor spot. I think it explains in the instructions that a separate bung needs to be welded on, around, 32 inches downstream of the turbo and before the CAT, I believe. The...

It sounds like you're flooding it. I would try the 450 injectors and put a 1g mas back on it. Until you get some kind of tunning program for it, or a wideband, the AFR's are unreadable. Try not to change those AFR's too much until you have a program.

That's normal. I have a Fidanza 2.3 clutch in my 91. The pressure plate on a stage 2 clutch, or any higher than stock, will be stiff. Engage and dissengagement is fairly close to the floor.

Not to start a fight or be mean but the tittle of this thread states that you're new, correct. What is your definition of good compression?

That's awesome. Nice to hear that it's running now. Now go have some fun. :)

That's the same thing my friends car would do. Then he found the '90 ECU so that's about as far as I got. I know that harness side of the transister has a lot to do with it. I would think it has to. with those pin's not being switched it screw's the signal being sent to your coils way up.

Ok, I'm pretty sure this is being caused by something between your ECU and the harness side of the transister. I know the harness for a '90 is a 6 pin and a '91 is an 8 pin, so those two extra pins need to be found and put in the right place's. I meant to tell you earlier, in that swap link that...

With the lock, there's a linkage inside your door where the key cylinder is. You'll have to take the interior door peice off to get to it, of coarse. There was a little clip that fell of that linkage on mine. I put that clip back on, tight, and it works fine now. Not sure how close a 1g and 2g...

Not a problem for the help. I read through that swap again and pin's 6 and 14 should stay in the stock location if you swap everything correctly. And if I remember right the ECU wire's that you swap, pin 6 and 14, correspond to the code's that you're pulling. I would switch those pin's back and...

My first question should've been, was the car running fine after the swap? No CEL's or anything? Did you follow Steve's wiring or Spoonman's?Edit: Are pin's 6 and 14 on the ECU harness still swiched.

Ok. I'm guessing that everything was done right? My friend has a '90 and was running somewhat like what you are describing. We figured out that before he got the car someone swaped the ECU pin's and the ECU without changing the transister, coil or the rest of what that swap need's. We put a '90...

I forgot what transmission site I saw it on, I think it was Jack's, but if your transmission needs one shift fork replaced, or one of anything, it's better to rebuild the whole thing. If you just replace one thing you're asking for problem's with it.edit: I have no experience with replacing...

Manic, that sounds like that's what the problem is. The new MAF should fix the problem. I saw that you have a new coil pack and transister in your mods. Do you have a 91-94 ECU in that car?

Before you replace it do a boost leak test and make very sure you have no leaks. A bad MAF and a boost leak have similar symptoms most of the time. I've never had a MAF go bad on me before but i've heard from many different mechanics it will give off a "rotten egg" smell. Don't quote me on...

Could be an O2 sensor. My experience with an O2 is that after they warm up the voltage will not be at the right signal causing the check engine light.

With my car, it will start a bit odd and rest at an idle. It will idle a little high. If you give it quick throttle, it will want to die. If you ease on the throttle ever so slowly the RPM's will go up smoothly but when you let off it will either try to die or die. And it will run really rich.

Sorry, I was not meaning to start an arguement. I get tired of people putting part's places down. True, the NAPA belt's are made by Gate's but to NAPA's spec's. I also would like to state that a NAPA timing belt is not exactly ment for high power application's. That's the way it is with a lot of...

Apperarently people aren't seeing my post. NAPA belt's with the line code NBH are made by Gates. Google it.

Just to let everyone know, NAPA's NBH line of belt's are made by Gates. I work there.

Do you have a manual for the car? I'm not sure if it would tell you for a 2g, as I own 1g's, but in my haynes manual it give's you a "how to" on checking code's with an analog multimeter. One of the code's it tell's you how to read is a bad ECU. I figure you might not have any logging software yet.

"Knock" happens when your air/fuel mixture detonate's (explode's) before your piston reaches top dead center. This is something that people watch out for because if your a/f mixture detonate's before top dead center your combustion is fighting against the way that you crankshaft is supposed to...

If the car is holding boost at, say, 7 psi at full boost it's not always a boost leak. I just had a boost problem with my car and, strange enough, it was a coolant leak. I'm not saying that it doesn't sound like a boost leak that is the problem. Just saying that a boost problem isn't always a...

I do not have a need for this as of yet but I've read in many post's that a 255 pump NEEDS an adjustable fpr. It will outflow your injectors. Not sure if that helps in any way, just thought it would be good info since it was not listed in your mods.

No problem. That is one of the weak links on a 1g. You're gonna love the feel of it after you get it welded. lol. I know I did. If anymore problems come up, let me know and I'll help you out the best I can. Good luck.

Ok. If you push your clutch in and then grab the pedal and pull it towards the drivers seat/roof of the vehicle it should not have any play. If it does, your linkage is worn. Again it's a common problem with a stiff pressure plate. If you look at the second pic in this link, it shows that...

Not sure what you mean by "replace", but if you need to get the assembly out of the car look up "clutch pedal" in the forums. I'm sure you'll find what you need.

I had the same prolems with my eclipse. And being that you put in a 4 puck clutch means that you will have pressure plate springs that are more stiff than stock. When this happened to me I replaced the slave and master with the OEM parts. I got a braided clutch line so I would have no flex. And...

I really don't think that the shorter throw on the tranny forks is a good idea. Like was said, your tranny will not like it and take a crap real quick. So what set up do you have right now? Meaning '90 or '91+ shifter base, cables and brackets. I have both '90 and '91 transmission's for fwd and...

My cars are both stock at the moment, so no 15psi launches for me. The moding will come after I get them running real nice first.Either way you go, they're both great cars to have. Hope you enjoy your purchase if you make one.:)

Let me know how it goes. This question comes up all the time but no one ever has a solid answer. I guess it's just less of a hassle to buy the things you need and have it work than to tinker with stuff and see if you can get the origonal shifter to work.

It seems to be a very common problem with my DSM's. If those gaskets aren't istalled right or are overtorqued, they leak. Causing missfire on the cylinder that has a leak.

Exactly what did you replace with a new part?

If you can replace that short cable ('90 model, 1/4" shorter) with the longer cable, that might work. If not, I would try just switching the cables with the 91+ NT cables you have. At least give it a shot and see, ya know. Good luck.

With what you have set up, I would think you need a little more throw or movement from at least one of your cables. Most likely the cable for the left to right movement at your shifter. And if I remember right that's the cable that is shorter on the '90 models.

I also have to agree with this. If you have a good tranny with an lsd in it and good tires 300 hp is very easy to put on the ground. Honestly, I just favor my awd because you don't have to worry much about hook up. I really need to replace my tires because they have very little tread left and I...

I've had this problem with both of my DSM's and it was the spark plug gaskets not having a good seal. There will be oil on the sprk plug threads and depending on the width of your plug wires there is usualy oil around them where the seals are.

What does it come with? Just no engine or no engine, tranny, that kind of stuff.

It really depends on what your goal would be for the car. I have a fwd and an awd. The fwd is a fun car, don 't get me wrong, but to me it's more of a daily driver. Throw a couple light mods on it to give it a bit more of a kick, ya know. The awd, to me, is a complete kick in the ass. Take care...

Sounds like the owner knows what he's doing at least a little and that's always a good thing. But like everyone else is saying, check it yourself first. If you can't do a leakdown test at least check it with a compression test. Don't be afraid to rawl under it and look around. Hope it works out...

If the oil is covering the electrode or side of the plug that faces the cylinders, I would think something internal. If the oil is covering the opposite side of the plug and the threading on the plug it's most likely your spark plug gaskets.

Not really sure but it could be a bad relay or fuse. I had a bad relay and didn't know. I just bought the car a day or two earlier and was driving down the highway to work. First my stereo died and wouldn't turn back on. Of course, I thought I just blew the radio fuse. Nope. The car lost a huge...

I like the new camaro's a bit but I would go for a DSM over one of them any day. I think you've got this with what you've put in the car so far and what you've said you're planning to put in it. Good luck man. Whoop his ass!! :thumb: