I replaced the linkage with this one for my bugeye a number of years ago. Fixed all the slop in my shifter. https://turninconcepts.com/tic-5mt-linkage-update.html

Are the pedal boxes the same for 1G and Galants? I know personally that installing a fresh pedal box is a pain in the ass. The wiring isn't much of an issue, other than some trans wiring. The reverse switch stuff is different. You will also need a manual speed sensor.

On my Creality CR-10S Pro I usually run my PLA at 205-210 ( depends on filament brand ) and the bed at 60. Rafts have been my go to for larger prints. It "wastes" filament and time, but haven't lost any prints since.As for leveling I'd recommend getting a hold of .005 shim stock. Heat the bed...

How have ratcheting wrenches not been mentioned yet? When you are a young kid just building your hoard of tools these were a major upgrade. The days of busting your knuckles doing 1/4 turns on some bolt hidden in the depths of the engine bay for 20 mins were over.

I don't have any pictures of the orientation..... but have you looked at Rockauto to see if they have the bolts in stock?

Most guides for dealing idle surge tell you to screw the BISS all the way in and then back it out a half to full turn to start. So if that basically worked for you.....maybe the BISS was just out of adjustment. http://www.vfaq.com/mods/BISS-1G.htmlDo you have access to any tuning software...

Use this as your visual reference... http://www.vfaq.com/mods/timingbelt-1G.html

I don't know if you got this sorted out..... but Rockauto ( a supporting vendor of the site w/ a discount code ) has KYB's in stock.https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/mitsubishi,1994,eclipse,2.0l+l4+turbocharged,1205727,suspension,strut,7584

I bought a switch and printed a simple adapter.

Saw this in my local Hobby Lobby today.

Great.... I just installed one of their racks into my car a couple months ago. Hopefully I have better luck than you did.

My 2002 Bugeye Subaru falls into the forever car category. I bought a 17 WRX and it felt numb, throttle by wire programming sucked....I kept thinking of what I should mod to make it " better " to me....but in the end sold it and took that car payment(s) and put it back into my 02. Earlier...

Rockauto and or Amazon probably carry them also.... but support Rockauto... they support us.

I would still check the slave cylinder for leaks. Is this a new development of a good running system or something your trying to troubleshoot after doing some work on the car?

I can 2nd Detroit Axle from Ebay. They were pretty much the only place I could even find a rebuilt rack and I think I paid around $113. Like Mech I decided to keep my core....they only offered like $10-20 to get the old one back.

I have a HP Pavilion that's a couple years old with Win10 on it. I've never had any issues. I take it you've tried all the basic stuff like swapping usb ports and having it pulled in before you power up the laptop.

I was a lurker back in the day...slowly trying to pay back that learned knowledge.

I don't really have any more advise....just some words of encouragement at this point. Good on you to take all this in...and keep pushing forward. These cars most days are forged from blood, sweat, and tears. But when they work it's nice to look back at them in a parking lot and see something...

I don't see it listed in your profile....are you running aftermarket cams?

I agree that a speed density setup should be less prone to boost/vacuum leaks. Have you tried throwing everything else out the window and adjusting the Speed Density table to get AirflowPerRev to 25 - 30? As we modify these setups farther and farther from stock the base maps are just a starting...

Your AirflowPerRev is kinda low at around 19-20....shoot for something between 25-30. ISCPosition is also a touch low at mid/low 20's but it holds pretty constant. TPSVolts should be at .63...your at .65....minor....but just pointing it out.

Do you know when the last time your ECU was looked at/repaired for cap damage? I chased surge for a long time until I was able to diagnose that the ECU wasn't able to control the ISC and needed to be repaired.

Do you have any way to log what’s going on? It’s going to be hard to really pinpoint where and how much needs work with out some sort of logger.

I'm eligible to get a antique plate for the 91 this year in Florida....but Covid being what it is....I might just wait a year til I don't have to wait a month and a half to get an appointment.

Do you have the sheet from FIC that comes with the injectors? If you do... they say to set the injbatteryadj to the values they list under injector Voltage Offset. Then look at the average flow rate and put that as your CC value in the calculator. Then Zero out your deadtime as a starting point.

I still tinker on my garage queen from time to time...one day it will be “ done “.

You must not have the engine in the car...because you take the clearest pictures of the tightest places. As for your issue.... if you have confirmed that the U brackets and bushings holding the rack in are seated correctly I'm not sure what your issue could be. I had to loosen the steering...

I changed my rack recently and ran into the same issue. Ended up loosening the steering column from underneath the dash to allow the shaft that runs through the firewall enough play to align easier.

I hope by the time I'm old VR has gotten good enough I can spend my days doing cool stuff as a young much more fit version of me.

If were you I'd try and save as much of it as possible. As someone that has been fighting heat issues.... I've had to fab all sorts of ducting to help drive air through the radiator after my front mount install. Florida life is not forgiving to poor cooling.

I was able to find an AWD matching rack from a company called Detroitaxle on eBay ( about $110 ). Way cheaper than everyone else, showed up quickly, looked properly reman’d , and fit without issue.

Can you post a log? How are your fuel trims at idle?

Yea that is caused by using the incorrect length bolts on the oil pan in those two locations.Check out this thread....https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/short-oil-pan-bolts.496094/#post-153536531

Were you using one of those funnel kits like this? https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-24680-Spill-Free-Funnel/dp/B00A6AS6LY/ref=psdc_15708811_t2_B01I40ZQWEAir bubbles and pockets will push coolant as they work themselves out. I recommend a kit like I listed.... maybe not that one... it was just the...

How many miles on the clock? Do you know when the timing belt was last done? Check the air filter....make sure nothing has moved in. Should probably siphon the fuel and give it some fresh gas.

Looking on ECMtunings site it looks like they offer a 2G conversion to eprom...but it's $195. I dunno what the price of eprom's go for. If it's hard to get a hold of one I guess that could also be an option. Then at least you know you'd have a functional ECU built and tested by the pro's. ( I...

You have to supply the eprom ECU that is also socketed. ECMLink is $545? Then tack on a couple hundred for an ECU and to get it socketed if the one you buy hasn;t already had it done.

You know your a true DSM'er when.... You can complete every repair without buying a new tool.

If your ISC reads right around 30 and your idle seems normal..... I wouldn't sweat it.

After watching this video.....We should have a hall of fame or something...Some of us are way more dedicated to the cause than others.

Your not a true DSM'er unless you keep looking at bigger turbos even though you haven't got your current setup dialed in properly yet.

Your not a true DSMer unless you have had your drivetrain out of the car at least once...

As for your mating surfaces I'd imagine you'd machine them in a mill of some kind with a fly cutter or endmill ( thus the swirly lines ).

When I was fighting frayed wiring to my coolant temp sensor it would read something like -130 in Link and would not stay running.

I agree.... they look better installed than I expected. Nice to potentially have another alternative to the Hella kit.

Did you happen to take a picture of them mounted in the car? They look weird, but at least with the pop ups you can hide them when not in use. Cool find though.

You should also log Closed Loop so you can make sure the car is in closed loop at idle.

Your TPS Volts in the first picture is at .61....try and adjust it to .63. In your last picture the Idle Switch ( IdleSw ) isn't closed ( showing 0 not 1 ). Maybe needs a throttle cable adjustment though in your first picture it did show closed.

I was just reading into this yesterday on the Link forums.Do you have the sheet from FIC that comes with the injectors? If you do they say to set the injbatteryadj to the values they list under injector Voltage Offset. Then look at the average flow rate and put that as your CC value in the...