How many miles on the motor? Try moving the crank for play or take a sharp left hand turn I think it was and see if the clutch pedal sinks to the floor... What time of clutch did you go with? did you get you're fly wheel resurfaced?
No spark on 1 and 4 will be cam sensor or you're power transitor or bad coil. I had the same problem after washing my motor turned out I fryed the ecu and the power transitor. Good luck though!
Figured mine out, swapped transistor packs turns out my old ECU might of fried my new power transistor so I switch out Ecu and transistors and bang back on all fours.
Eh nevermind! I brought my Ecu to another dsmers and put my ecu in his car, made his car run wrong, so we assumed It was the ecu. So i bought a different ecu and still doing the same thing! injector 1 and 4 are dead. what else could it be?
Thanks for all the feed back guy's, But I tryed everything i'm about to go through the harness from the transistor because when I move the harness the motor killsSo I went through the harness fixed ever cracked wire still missing in 1 and 4. So far this is what I have done CAM positioning...
I replaced the CAS with a new one, when the car is running on 2 cylinders the RPMs go crazy some times and then sits at zero, If that suppose to mean anything.
Long story short I degreased my engine and it would not start. It turned out to be a bad crank angle sensor, now the car is running but is not get spark on 1 and 4 so far I changed out coil packs and power transistor. The car would run right then its like 1 and 4 just turns off. any input guys...
Switch out coil pack and switch out power transistor still no spark.... what else guys? check all the wiring every thing is cleaned and plugged in. could the timing jump? but there no slack in the belt....
Last week i clean/degrease my motor it ran fine.. So I decided to take it around the block the car turned off and would not start.. So I check to see if i was getting spark no spark.. i check to connector with a test light and I'm getting power there could it be a bad coil from the water hitting...
Hey guys, I just got done taking the transmission out about a month ago to replace the throw out bearing and before i did that the car had no vibration in the wheel, this vibration is about at 70-80 mph i brought my car to get the tire balanced and they where all fine. I also replaced the driver...
20-25 pounds, im running a precision turbo it never failed me yet and its been over 3 years plus probley more because im the 3rd owener with the same turbo with no spool play :).. If your looking to make a top end freeway beast it will get you where u want to be. Mods: check my profile...
I just fixed this problem on my 98 Gst it was my lower control arm ball joint. Go under the car pull down on the car control arm if it moves up and down most likely its no good also check the upper control arm when the tire is on the car grab from behind the tire from the top and pull toward you...
Hey guysI been have a issue with my clutch pedal. I replaced the master and the slave about a year ago, and my issue is i set the clutch where it seems to be nice not to hard not to soft and when i go run the car hard the clutch pedal turn hard as a rock!WTF what could be causing it to stiff...
Hey guysI'm having a bit of trouble, When i boost to 15 psi it seems to miss fire and chugs. I did a boost leak test, I did not find a leak and vac is pulling a steady -20 psi. So what could it be? Tomorrow I'm going to get new wires and plugs. What else could cause it to studer if it boosts...
I did not know where to post this but the past week its been rainy and crappy out so i decied to wire tuck a bit. Here are two pics of before and after. Things i still want to do it put the battery in the trunk and get a non-cruise control cable,remove emissions. any one have any thing to add? i...
long story short, I bought a master and a slave cylinder today, because the pedal keeped getting sloppy, i put the new master and slave in, and bleed the lines and i get done the pedal is still nice a tight. I pump it a few more times and then it get stuck on the floor:notgood:(bleed screw...
Make sure it's not leaking anything! Check when the timing and water pump was changed, look for rust on towers, start the car listen to it so its not making noises that do not sound right, check all fluids to see if the owner keeped up on fluids toped off at the right marks,make sure nothing is...
Ok i bleed it and its still doing the same thing.. if you pump slow its looses pressure and drops to the floor then i pick the pedal back up and pump it slow again and its stiff again? where are the most common leaks on these? Whats the best way to check for leaks?
long story short, I bought a master and a slave cylinder today, because the pedal keeped getting sloppy, i put the new master and slave in, and bleed the lines and i get done the pedal is still nice a tight. I pump it a few more times and then it get stuck on the floor:notgood:(bleed screw...
Crank walk is over rated, I had bought a used 99 motor and it had crank walk thank god i returned it right away. It still can happen in the 99's but i heard they have less chances then the 95-99.
Ok i was told to use the mitsu silicon because it stronger then normal silicon? But i called mitsu up today and they want 50$ dollers for silicon WTF, will i be ok using hi temp silicon on the oil pan with out worrying of it leaking?
Ok i was told to use the mitsu silicon because it stronger then normal silicon? But i called mitsu up today and they want 50$ dollers for silicon WTF, will i be ok using hi temp silicon on the oil pan with out worrying of it leaking?
i use this cord
USB Cable KKL 409.1 VW/AUDI OBD2 OBD OBDII VAG COM 409:eBay Motors (item 370188399754 end time May-15-09 12:06:24 PDT)with this free software
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/tuning-engine-management/326872-mhiscan-new-free-datalogger-dsms.html