Well I took the line out of the nozzle and placed it in an empty cup then I tried jumped the pump and gave it, it's own 12v power and ground but the pump will not run. I think i found my problem.
I've got a devils own water/meth injection kit that came with my 92' tsi when i bought it. I have the meth kick on at 8 psi with a progressive nozzle and a max boost of 26psi, but everytime i hit boost when the meth should kick on i don't think it is. I pop the hood and find the 10 amp fuse that...
Well I now have over 2000 miles on my trans, it's still just as good as when i first put it in. So I think it's safe to say they can make a good trans.
I drove over two hours to drop off my trans last week at dogbox after i blew it to hell. next They called me up the day to explain to me everything that had broken and to discuss all my options. I was given the opertunity to buy a trans they had there (full dogbox race trans) that would drop...
I wasn't doin to good on friday either. My trans wouldn't go into any gear, it would just grind. I did get one run where only 3rd gear wouldn't go in and I managed to get a 12.93 @ 105 and my best 60 foot of the night was a 1.6 so atleast I know I have a 12 second car!
I'll be there not next weekend but the weekend after, the 10th. That should be friday. I just gotta get a little more of a clutch pedal first. I can drive around town but I can't bang gears quite yet, plus I gotta get back to tuning with dsmlink.
I'm gonna flush the old fluid out with new and I have a clutch master and a cluch slave on the way. It'll be here tomorrow, so i'll change that out and let you know how it goes.
Hey I'm running my talon this friday in great meadows, nj at island dragway. I'm shooting for the 12's so any dsmer in the area that can come and run or even watch, I could use the support!
This first happened two weeks ago. It happened when i was decel on a road coming to a stop light and down shifting, I noticed my clutch pedal when a pushed it in had a vibration to it and when i came to a stop with the clutch in and the car out of gear it stalled. I started it back up and limped...
The plunger will be under spring pressure, I doubt you'll be able to open it by sucking. Just take a small pocket screw driver and push it down and make sure it opens and closes and seals shut when it does. The carbon deposits are what would keep it from closing properly.
You'll take those two bolts off that go to the side of the head to remove the EGR. Than look at the part that bolts to the side of the head, that's where the plunger is.
My car will pull timing like no tomorrow when it does it cause my lifters make quite a bit of noise when it's cold so when you change your lifters you should take care of your problem
Does it only happen when it's cold or does it happen all the time? Cause mine does the same thing but only when it's cold outside and the engine isn't up to temp.
If I were you I'd check your EGR again, remove the valve and make sure the plunger is fully closed. Carbon deposites can build up inside it and keep it open. If the valve checks out ok than get something that blows air and blow out the passage that leads to the exhaust and make sure it's free...
Heli-coil's are fine to use, what do you think they use on race cars for spark plug threads in the heads? They can handle plenty of heat, just use thread locker that's good for high temps.
Other than the number of bolts in the crank, the clutch kit's will be the same.If you're gonna be driving around on the street, don't get an unsprung clutch. It's just gonna be over kill and it'll feel like crap. An ACT 2600 street disk is the max you wanna go for your set up
I wouldn't suggest takin it apart yourself if you've never done it before. There's alot of parts. But if you really wanted to try you can buy new clutch packs.
It sounds like the clutch packs are done...when the old fluid got changed and the new fluid went in, that was it for the clutches. The old fluid I'm sure was the only thing holding it together. I'd say it just needs to be rebuilt.
Are you sure you're getting the fuel to the injectors? A plugged fuel filter could cause your problem. The pump could be fine but the inline filter isn't letting enough fuel to the rail.
Different liquids in a car produce different colors of smoke coming out of the exhaust when burned. If it was truely white smoke than you had coolent entering you combustion chamber.As for the timing belt, you have to get the botom cover off to get the timing belt back on, that's covering...
Thermal R&D is the best exhaust i've ever owned. Sounds amazing at an idle, crusin, or when i'm at the track. I would only buy that exhaust for a dsm, well worth the money. Plus the systems are alot cheaper than they used to be!
All the other posts from a couple years ago say carbon fiber fenders don't exist for the 1g's but a couple months ago someone sold a pair on ebay...does anyone know of anyone or any company selling them? thanks
Spray some WD-40 in there to cover your bases, i would just use a rachet if i were you. I've had spark plugs break in heads and you can drill them out, you just have to be careful. If it's gonna break than it's gonna break, but just work the plug back and forth while it soaks in WD-40 and from...
Soak it in a penetrating oil (wd-40, loosen it) over night, than go at it with a hammer and a punch. I had to do it to mine, it's a bi*** but it'll work its way out. good luck
I searched the forms but i didn't find anyone with a problem like this. I have a 92' talon awd. For the last month when the car is cold if i go above 45 mph the speedo starts climbing and bouncing around fluctuating about 20 mph or so. It doesn't do it all the time but if i accelerate fast i can...
I have my agx's set at 2 in the front and 4 in the rear and it's a good setup for all around driving. I drive back roads and a highway to get to work everyday and the roads by me aren't exactly in the best shape.