Selling my lightly used OEM Mitsu 2g heavy weighted leather shift knob (LINK). Mitsu part number: MR263906$100 shipped within the Continental US!

If you can't match them, you can't use them. Check the sides for any markings that might indicate which cap goes with which rod.

Did you port the stock housing by any chance? The flanges that most people build exhaust manifolds with (CNC machined) do not usually match the flange on the stock housing (cast).Example.. Turbo gasket lined up on manifold flange:Turbo gasket lined up on stock housing (unported):

Then you should think through the firing order of a 4-cylinder engine. 1-3-4-2. You are pairing 1-4 and 2-3, so the outlet of each side of the divided manifold will see an exhaust pulse every 360* of crank rotation. This is true regardless which side of the turbine they are directed towards...

If your engine is healthy and the cylinders have relatively equal compression, it would be the same in either configuration. The turbine would not know the difference.

Don't run it. You need to find out what's locking it up and keeping it from spinning. Did it spin freely before you bolted the front cover onto the block? Try spinning it as you're torquing the front cover down and if you feel that resistance starts to build, you can narrow down your search and...

I would like to see a FRAM tough guard filter cut open. I bet the difference between that and their cheap orange cardboard one is pretty big.

Absolutely. Any time you "open" any hydraulic lines, you need to bleed the system.

I can't open the link, but I'm assuming you're looking for the mustache bar/rear subframe poly bushings? If so, there's a member named boostx that was one of the few responsible for designing them and may have some available if you PM him.

You also need an aftermarket gauge instead of using the stock one to know exactly where your oil pressure is at.

No, there is no gasket where the actual gears are held.

One thing would be to bleed the lifters if you haven't done so.

Oil viscosity is, along with engine break-in, one of the most debated and sensitive topics. I'm quoting this:because I believe its the one thing to take out of all the back-and-forth bickering. If you run 10w30 and it works for your engine, great, but don't preach it to everyone as the oil...

Do you have any pictures of the completed struts?

You were right, only one clip per pad.

I got the problem solved. Using a multimeter, I noticed some strange things happening to the voltage of the 10gauge 12v wire, i.e. had 12v when unhooked, 0v when hooked up to the fuel pump. For whatever reason, there was significant voltage drop somewhere along the wire but not something I could...

You're right, JB welding it would be a horrible idea. It's the harmonic damper and is an important component to your engine.P.S. It's "damping" not "dampening."

A clutch pedal that's not adjusted correctly could cause the symptoms you're describing. I had a similar issue where I heard spinning/scraping with the pedal pushed all the way to the floor, and only then. I then adjusted the clutch pedal according to this video: Clutch adjustment and the...

What does it sound like?If you haven't adjusted your clutch pedal, do that first. It might be slightly out of adjustment, causing you to overextend when your pedal is pushed all the way down.

It should see close to engine oil pressure, whatever that may be for your engine. There isn't really a "return" to the oiling system. The oil is fed to bearings, cams, filter, cooler, etc. and "returns" by draining back into the oil pan through clearances in bearings and oil drain galleys cast...

The ground is good, yes.

Great ingenuity and making the most of your resources!Got any pics of this Evo2 with M3 gearbox?

Hi all,I have something of a weird issue with my fuel pump rewire. I rewired my 255 Walbro several years back and was working great, but one morning, the pump doesn't turn on anymore (using DSMLink).With the fuel pump turned on from DSMLink, I checked the voltage from my 12v wire going...

You'll want to use torque specs provided by the manufacturer of those aftermarket parts. Aftermarket head studs, rod bolts, main studs, etc. all have specific torque specs from the manufacturer. Clearances for piston-to-wall, ring end gaps, and bearings also have specs provided by the manufacturer.

Did you check your spark plugs and wires? Got spark?

For kevlar, you'll want to do more miles. Probably north of 750 miles before you start flooring it.

It looks like you may need to remove shims from your pivot ball on which the clutch fork sits to move the fork closer to the middle of that window.

You'll need to have it honed regardless of whether you decide to bore it or not. The hone is what creates crosshatch on the cylinder walls for rings to seat. The hone is also how the piston-to-wall clearance is set for each individual piston and cylinder.Make sure you know the specs your motor...

You're going to want to get an aftermarket oil pressure gauge. The stock one is obviously vague, as its measured in H and L as opposed to actual psi. An aftermarket gauge will tell you exactly where your oil pressure is at.Also, check your oil level if you haven't already done so. An engine...

Rust....? Our valve covers are aluminum aren't they?I'd like to see some pictures too.

^ You should be careful doing it that way since most sockets are made of steel, which is a poor thermal conductor. You'd also be adding a layer of air between the sensor and socket, which is one of the best insulators, so strapping the socket on might be worse. Instead of adding mass, you want...

You can find a sheet of copper in whatever size you need easily at mcmaster.com.

I use Evo8 oil squirters on my 6 bolt 4g63. I'm also running a 100mm crank so my pistons go even further down the bore (although the stroker pistons possibly have a shorter skirt as well). The Evo squirters, as you found, are angled slightly differently and require much less bending for proper...

You and I, we think alike! Maybe even a cyclone IM as well..?

Hard to remember the colors, but on the stock wiring, 2 of the 4 wires should be going to the fan motor, while the other 2 do not. These are the 2 wires that you want to cut and splice to your slim fans. The black wire on the slim fan will go with the black wire on the stock fan, and the other...

Having a lean A/F under load will cause excessive heat and/or knock and destroy the piston. A bad o2 sensor won't have much to do with it since it functions during cruise and idle, not WOT. A bad knock sensor may have contributed, but it being bad in itself is not enough to cause knock and melt...

Get another housing, and take that one to the scrap yard so they can melt it down so no evidence of such a mess ever existed.Justin seems to have plenty of housings, PM him and see what he can do for you.

I ported my OFH more than that and I still have plenty of oil pressure. I don't have any experience cutting the spring though...Here's a thread about a guy who cut 1 coil off and never sees above 55psi. Cut relief spring

Better yet, go with the high-impedance 1680cc or 2150cc injectors! I run them on my car on both e85 and 93 and I have gotten my car to idle perfectly with DSMLink and my own shoddy (read: non-existent) tuning skills. They should support any reasonable HP goal you may have present or future...

Interesting idea. Where are you coming up with 1/16"? I would be extremely cautious if you are to do this for fear of losing TOO much oil pressure.For reference, the oil clearance for the balance shaft is .0012-.0024" for the front bearing and .0020-.0036" for the rear bearing. 1/16" is .0625".

If he took out the rear balance shaft and kept the front one in and driven by the belt, you will have some nasty vibrations.

Glad I could be of help!I can't say I know if the valving is the same between the two, nor do I have the money or equipment to find out. What I did find out through research before I tried this setup was that the motion ratio between the 1g awd rear and 2g rear are relatively close.That...

I'd also highly recommend Koni shocks paired with Ground Control coilover sleeves over any of the ones mentioned above.The 1g AWD rears are discontinued, yes, but you can in fact use the 2g rears in their place. They actually bolt right up and have an added bonus that you can adjust them from...

HAHA.I kind of see a gasket peeking out between the manifold and turbo, top left corner of the 2nd pic.

Also looks to me like there's a pretty big gap between the manifold and wastegate flanges...You're smelling the exhaust while cruising too right? That'd explain a lot.

Very interesting, and immediately reminded me of Bruce Crower's 6-stroke engine concept.The cliff-notes of his idea: Following the exhaust stroke, inject water into the cylinder with both valves closed. The water instantly vaporizes creating a second power stroke. Then a final exhaust stroke...

Holset manufactures millions of variations of this turbo for all sorts of applications. Just because it looks different than yours doesn't mean its not genuine.

Both are lifters. One is manufactured by a different company than the other, but both have the small oil orifice at the top. There are "revised" lifters on the market with larger orifices that may help prevent lifter tick.

If your cooling system is in good condition, the water-cooled oil cooler works to keep the oil at the same temperature, 195-205F. This is where the factory intended the oil temperature to be at, and where you will want it to be at. If you run oil temperatures lower than this, you will need to...

The factory oil cooler isn't exactly a bad design. If i'm not mistaken, people try to run cooler oil so their engine runs cooler , thus making the intake charge cooler. But keeping your oil at a certain temperature is vital to its ability to lubricate bearings. If your oil is too cool, it will...