definitely sounds like fuel cut.Check the line to the actuator could have a small leak allowing more boost pressure to build before opening. wich would give you a higher boost level hence the fuel cut. do you know how much pressure your building up?
Sorry SLOW93, I was asking the OP about his passenger side break line. I also wanted to add that it looks very good and hope mine will turn out the same.
thanks for the input red. what are you tunning with? and what size injectors? ive got an aem ems and fic 880's and i have a choice of either 1g mani or a cyclone. are you still running the stock cams? im also starting to think these injectors wont cut it.
Im actually glad you answered justin (turbo guru). when you say hx40 is that with a bep bolt on housing as well? or there t3 housing? what would you recommend for the head and cams? and fuel? I would like pump gas for the street and race gas tune for track.
I know this has probably been beaten to a pulp, and ive tried searching but not finding the exact information i need. Im trying to build a pretty solid DD with a track tune for weekends. Im somewhat on a budget now compared to when i started the build. motor is a 6bolt 2.3 strocker, head hasnt...
I was in 7th grade and lived in NY at the time (williamsburg Brooklyn) One girl in my class lost her mom that day. the day became pretty hectic after that. Watched the news with my mom for the rest of the day.
unless you havent upgraded your bearings i wouldnt recommend the act pressure plate it really strains them and might cause crankwalk.... although its usually a hit or miss some people can go for years with them and some just a couple miles.... your call tho.. i do like the act flywheel tho
Deff sounds like head gasket if its shooting water out of over flow when you rev it this is a sign of engine compression getting into the cooling system if you remove the radiator cap and rev itll shoot water up from there also
if you put the car in gear and go to start it does the car move with the starter? and it could also be the pivot ball for the shift fork if its worn down
I was wondering if he ever got those on there im not trying to join in a which is better argument but i like the idea of the smaller 4pot rotor and was interested in maybe doing this to my car
your going to want to keep the cartridge face up as in oil feed facing upward and the drain obviously aiming down... the easiest way is get the turbo where your gonna want it in the car and if possible rotate the compressor housing to where you want it and tighten it back up but you might not be...
if you just finished doing the swap there is a learning period on the ecu where it will cause it to stall when coming to a stop try driving it smooth for about 5-10 miles and then see what happens
i would say try putting to nuts on it and tightening them to each other then use a wrench to turn out from the the lower nut like you you would remove a stud but from the pic the threads look pretty chewed up but its worth a try if you can get something on there