So I'm going to chime in here. Don't jump to any conclusions. The other guy is talking about the differences between an auto and a manual car... not what is wrong with your car. I see no reason why an auto motor is any issue.How big is the crack? Is there black around the edges of the crack...
I listened to a story on the radio about this. Pretty intense ehh? I guess they've been having the most luck sneaking through the on star like systems. They did mention being able to use fords sync system as well. They also have been toying with the TPMS as an optional route, with minimal...
I think your best bet in this situation is a new exhaust manifold. With a custom manifold you can direct the turbine outlet where ever you want. Otherwise, companies make manifolds that should work, just make sure the dimensions are right.It looks like your pretty limited on options here...
Have you had any no starts lately? Like trying to start the car but it just turns over? Up here in northern Minnesota cars don't like to start when its -20* or colder. Some people will sit there and crank the motor for too long and "flood" the thing. If you do this too much the exact same thing...
Your worried about 2 gallons! haha Try being cheated by a gas station and having to burn a full tank of 87. Drive it like an old fart, a few pounds of boost isn't going to kill it and don't trust gas stations with bags over the 87 nozzle and assume the 91 nozzle actually has 91 in it. SimpleOr...
I keep mine in a cupboard somewhere in my garage. It just seems too dark and gloomy in the car with it closed, so why have it? To be honest, if you think it looks tacky without one, wait till you get one. It is one of the cheapest most rickety things that these cars have...
I would love to get a hold of that cylinder head. Those dohc heads are designed by Lotus and are really hard to come by. I know those cars really well. My first car was a 2.2l charger (same block) and I love all those old 80's and 90's Chryslers. Let me know if you have any questions, Ive had a...
As far as if the engine will work or not, most junk yards warranty their used motors. So if it doesn't run they should take it back.I did a transmission job on a explorer and went through 3 junkyard trannys before success. All of them came from the same yard and I only paid once.
I dont think they came like that from factory as an option. Car dealers like to do that to add "flash". Used car lots the most.Also, I like both choices (the rims not their color) Id go with the lighter of the two.
If your going to pull the transmission anyways, then cool. But the reason I say check the starter first is simple. If you can turn the thing over by hand then the starter should turn it too. IE bad starter or installed wrong. New stuff isn't always good stuff.You're ring gear is probably shot...
I love mopar. I have a 68 charger r/t project that really deserves more attention than I give it. If you get one, the parts a not too terrible to find (make friends early) They also have aftermarket body metal for most panels if you are planing to restore one. PLUS all the different colors mopar...
Sorry for the wait. Here's the exact specs. You need to test the primary side and the secondary side. Primary being the side that is plugged into the engine harness. And secondary being the side that goes to the plug wires.For primary side un plug the 3 pin that connects to the coil packs...
sounds like a starter issue to me. Or possibly a ring gear. Like said above, pull the inspection cover and check out in there. Also bench test your starter. Make sure the drive assembly moves in and out fully and there is no damage to the pinion gear teeth.
What kind of alarm do you have. It should have an output just for that on the module itself.Or at worst case, you could get a naturally closed relay and have it energize with ignition on. Then its just a matter of running a fused line of a constant 12v source to your'e little light show. Haha
I also heard of people re using pistons after a valve collision. You have to file down any sharp edges though and even after there is an increased risk for a hot spot there.I guess... if your'e on a budget and the car is mostly stock you might get away with it. Do you have any pictures of the...
A dial caliper is a nice tool to have. I use mine more than I thought I ever would. But for internal engine and turbo work you want a set of micrometers instead. They will give you a far superior reading. I have 0-1", 2-3" and 3-4" micrometers and those cover almost everything. Ive never had a...
I do like you're car and I Really really hate to say this.... But 15k for a dsm is a lot of scratch. No matter how much you have into it. Who knows if future markets will go up or down on these cars ( I think down before up) But I do like you're car.I would keep it just because I don't plan on...
Don't do that! Jeez do you want to make it worse. If it is knocking, the more you run it the worse it will become AND more damage will be done. $$$$ I'm sorry for being a little sarcastic on my last post but do you want to fix the thing or not?
Ohh I see. So a motor that has rod knock blew up and is considered unreliable now. Oofta, so sorry for you're loss bud. Better luck with the Hondas. I hear they can run with rod knock all day, up to like 15,000 rpm too!In reality, go to your local library. There are books you can read. You...
I sure do blame them! They do these things, it doesn't work right and they blame the car for being unreliable. Like its the cars fault.The plus side is that this is why we can get these cars for pretty cheap.
yup. 100% with 95 eclipse guy.Just to add to his logic, we have electronically controlled transmissions. So make sure it's something mechanical before thinking about pulling the trans... not an electrical fault.Does the thing act strange if your being nice on it? Or just under load? Do your...
Sorry, I wouldn't listen to your friend. (no offense) but it sounds like the starter is fine. If it turns the engine over and there are no funny noises, it should be gold. Plus it wouldn't cause the problem you're describing. A good way to spend too much money is to throw parts at a car and hope...
Yeah I was going to say motor mounts too, before he ^^^ corrected himself!My quick, easy check for this (might not be the correct way) is to prop you're hood up and make sure you are in kinda an open area. Slap it into first and put you're right toe on the brake. Start slipping the clutch...
Hey man. Some people just don't like answering these questions here. If you asked about recirculating a blow off valve on the other hand, watch out!! w/e Sometimes you just have to wait a while for the right people to log in!I have a 2g awd auto and every so often while shifting from reverse...
It looks like you have a LOT of little things that need to be addressed in that engine bay alone. I personally hate emissions delete cars, just because they never seem to be as happy as they should be. Maybe its just me... My guess is you have a check engine light on right??If it helps any...
I want those wheels from that first ad really bad! Like these, only in chrome or aluminum... One day, seeing they cost like $250 per wheel.(This is an archer racing car btw)
Yeah, I'm 100% with Zoott... I still can't read that name haha! LiquidXEither way, a leak down test is the next step. Always figure out exactly what the issue is before removing or replacing parts. More so if you're talking about major engine work.If you have a compression tester you can...
I didn't remove my transfer case. Its a pita to get that lower torque converter cover / shield off. But imo, better than removing the t case. (again, I'm 2g so it could be different)
SVO; Ill give that a look. I did use plastic tubing (a lot of it because its routed nicely) Its been there since the new engine. That's 4 years of 100* summers and -60* winters. Ill let ya know.Thanks guysBtw, is almost 100psi cold about right for these motors? It almost seems high to me.
I have a mechanical oil pressure gauge in place of the broken stock one. Ive never had any problems with it before and it has always read right (I'm assuming...)Last winter, I remember seeing about 90ish psi on cold starts (were talking up to -50*f or colder) Well, now its starting to cool...
Ive done it on a 2g a few times and its just fine. If i remember, the 1g has just as much space between the front of the engine and the fender well. Leave the TC in the transmission and you'll have just enough room. Just remove all the accessory pulleys first and be sure to support the thing...
Secondary ignition is coil pack, wires and plugs. Lets forget about wires and plugs though.It says you replaced the coil packs? Was it with new ones or used?You can use a multimeter to check them. I'll have to dig a bit to get you specs. The thing is, if it only happens when its really hot...
Are there any other drive-ability issues? (lack of power, sputter under load... etc)
Does it make any noise when it stalls out?
What are the conditions that that the stall occurs under? (hot, cold, high speed, low speed... etc)
Does the CEL come on? (any DTC's in the computer?)All these paint...
I think that's just the way the sending unit is designed. Mechanical float is my guess.When I went through my broke stage in life (ohh college! haha) I got pretty used to that light. I never ran her out of gas, but when that light stops going out during braking, its time to scrape some gas...
Which cable actually fried? The one going to the starter, or the one from the generator?Also, does your battery have a tie down?Now's a good time to buy a multimeter btw! (if you don't have one)
My 1-2 and 2-3 are a little high when cold but its most noticeable on my 3-4 shift. My first drive of the day will take the 3-4 shift till exactly 3 grand before shifting to overdrive ( #4 gear that is)Get her legal and drive it a while. It takes more than 10 miles to warm the transmission.
Are you talking about every shift? Just because when cold, my transmission will wait until 3k to make the 3 to 4 shift. When warm it will shift fine.So does this happen just cold, or all the time?
Your right there. I bet it is crush bent here too. But with how minor the bends are, looking at goofer's car (love that undercarriage btw) it shouldn't be that bad of a crush??So $180 would be the max I should go? Im using my muffler which is ~3" o.d. (not sure what the i.d. is)
That's what I'm thinking. And everyone else seems to be saying the same.I heard something like bending 3" pipe can cause kinks with a smaller machine? But 3-4 tiny bends cant be that bad.I think Im on the same page as you guys. I just hope he doesn't jack the price for 3" vs 2.5". Should I...
I brought my talon into the local exhaust shop and asked "hey, you guys bend 3" pipe" They said yeah, then looked outside and said "not for that car though" I explained it was turbo, and what not. Bigger is better on turbo cars. They go on about how some other kid in my town (the talon genius in...
I guess that's what ill have to do. I was just trying to avoid ordering online.(minimoose) I wish we had an auto zone here. I would be on that today. Its funny, all four part stores in town can't even get them from any of their warehouses.I found out that throttle bodys .com will send...
I miss my 97 A4 so much! Im always going to keep my talon, but my next car is going to be a 2001 S4. My god!! 2.7 bi turbo AWD with 6 Speed. They're just starting to get into my price range too.I agree man. I like all the audi cars (id kill for an original quattro) only some vw though...
Yeah that's cool and all, but cut one open and see it has about half the ammount of pleats as, for say, a wix brand. More pleats means better filtration. :thumb: