Another mini speed bump. I have DIS-4 ignition box and spark tech COP. Being that the car will be on Haltech ps1000 management. Can I ditch the igniter( Ignition Transistor pack/module) or will I have to tie that into my new harness?

Thanks :thumb:

Its been while since i've messed with one of these things and decided to get back into a 1G talon. I was looking into building a new milspec harness for my haltech I wanted to remove my factory engine harness but I wanted to know if its tied into my lighting harness (headlights ,turnsignals...

Nope after getting frustrated I figured out it was the end of the master cylinder. The piece that connects to the clutch pedal was defective.. It put another one in and adjusted the rod now its good. I suggest the OP look into that as well and turn the adjustment rod all the way to the counter...

Did you figure it out yet? I'm currently having the same issue with my car, New clutch, and F/W, new M/C & S/C. I have good pedal pressure but the car just wont go into gear. :confused:

All you need is a 255lph pump, afpr, 60-1, 880's, fmic, decent cams nothing too fancy or radical ..web street cams will do, ngk 7's and act 2600, a lightened flywheel + Ecu( eprom/standalone) with a good tune.

I had the same issue on my 2g. I just unplugged it and the light went away.Now I just monitor it here and there. Damn light is like the check engine lights brother if for some reason you have them both on its like they're ganging up on you at night.

I already swapped in a liquid filled gauge and not only is it reading properly as far as I can see it bleeds back down to zero after the cars been sitting. I have regulator on the firewall and all it took was less than 2 weeks for the old autometer gauge to eat shit on me. IDK why but it...

If they notice the car doesn't have the readiness codes set. They'll wipe the ecu and start fresh so they can set readiness codes. I know this for a fact because, they do inspections at my job and that's how we have to do them. I believe you have to drive 20-40mph at about 2500 rpm for about 5...

Yeah I think my gauge crapped out. After I got gas I drove home, popped the hood and noticed my gauge was pegged past 100 psi. So in a nervous panic I pulled the vacuum line and turned out the set screw and the gauge stayed in the same spot. I then waited about and hour or so to crack the line...

I noticed that my after relocating my regulator to the firewall, My fuel pressure doesn't drop after shutting the car off. Now I know it wouldn't drop right away but after 24hours it stays in the same spot as if the car was running. Before when I had it directly off the rail it would drop back...

Just remember your cas controls fuel and spark...I had a friends 1g who had a similar issue and it was his CAS acting up..You check the pump itself? If you want pull one of the lines off the rail and have a friend cycle the key on and off real quick..

I'd say cam angle sensor.. or ecu.. Dumb question but does the car have an alarm with a kill switch?

If this were 4 yrs ago then I'd say go with the 6bolt but after I going through it and after the years I've seen alot of people rebuilding their 7bolt and making good power with out the crank walk I would rebuilt the 7bolt..

Currently I'm running a comp clutch stage 1 in my car it lasted 3 years of DD and mild abuse. But I just picked up a fidanza flywheel and a ACT2600 hd kit w/6puck disk. I'm just waiting to see how this is going to work out..:hellyeah:

Before I had to push the back end down.. Then after attempting to realign it it sits flat on its own, it opens and closes freely but for some reason that one corner has water coming into it and I cant figure out why..

I also did that...But when I did a water leak test on the car(hose on top the sun roof) I can see from inside the car that the water is coming in on the drivers side corner of the sunroof and no matter how much I try to realign it, it still comes in from that corner..

I got my seal from JNZ tuning in their oem catalog..Its list price is $114.47 but they sell it at 88.71 + shipping.. After searching around one person ended up changing out the whole assembly and that fixed their issue..But i'm so not trying to do that right now.

Not to be side tracked but lol Why does the engine look backwards.. Like an evo style..WTF:confused:.. The stock coils can handle 500hp with out an additional box and yes its been proven. COP w/o a CDI box won't give you anything but looks you may actually cause more harm because the coils...

I dont have this exact kit but I have a 4300k kit from ebay. I paid about $60 shipped. Its a little bit brighter than silverstars but I did have to aim my lights lower for on coming traffic.. Against a garage door it has a slight white shadow/glare on top= retrofited projectors soon.. Just...

Here is how I did mine..Just remember to cut it out from the back of the console so its cleaner..Gauge in the pic is a bit hurt so don't mind that..But you get the idea

Traction bars for 2g fwd cars...

Flat black and matte/satin black is different. Flat black looks like shi* and draws negative attention to the car. Sloppy flat black looks like a hack job project that will never be. As stated before if you satin black or flat with the matte finish it will look good but you have to have the...

I've read up on a few threads on leaky or leaking sunroofs and non- helped me so far. My sunroof leaks and I'm looking for ideas. I've replaced my sunroof seal w/(OEM seal),I've cleared up the drains a coat hanger then with a blow gun, I can see where the air is hitting the floor from the drains...

Theres your problem.. Your not supposed to run a 255 pump on stock ecu on stock injectors , with a stock regulator .. Pull the pump out and put a stock one back in. If you had a 190 you can run it without a regulator but a 255 without any supporting mods your just hurting yourself and the motor...

Are you running an adjustable fuel pressure regulator if so. I'd try to turn the pressure down.. Also is it a stock ecu or eprom/chipped..? What size injectors are you running? :confused:

Before I sold my old setup.. I went to lowes with the fitting and picked up a small piece of hose for a dishwasher and used it as a sleeve on top the fitting then it worked perfectly with the stock recirculation hose.:thumb:

You can try the person who started these two write-ups..http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-exterior-interior/274519-how-light-gauge-cluster-leds.html http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-exterior-interior/282656-how-light-hvac-leds.html

Sounds like your rotors are warped. Most people run Evo brakes as a so call cheap upgrade but most big brake upgrades also means a minimum of a 17" rim..

I was wondering if there was a way to check to see if the coils I have were good. Voltage, Resistance ect.. I want to make sure they were getting the proper voltage because I'm having a missfire issue.. This is on a 2g with a 6bolt swap on dsmlink with the inverted signal..

Personally I run a BAER KIT..But that doesn't support 16" wheels, they hit the caliper. So I found a set of 2g gsx wheels and here is the results

The price for legit window weld and the motor mount insert is about the same..Might as well buy a full prothane kit and call it a day and yes the car will vibrate a lot more than normal and so I hope you don't have bad hood hinges..The vibration from that will send you nuts..

Start with Vfaq for free mod's and maintenance then on here there's a staged mods list.. www.vfaq.com http://www.dsmtuners.com/sub.php?page=tech http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/tech-article-archives/

Based off my PTE experience. I've been good so far with 4yrs of abuse and still kicking strong.. :thumb: I have some simple but yet complicated question can we get flow charts or maps for an hx turbo and the 6262?

I personally would run a pte before a holeset.. I have a pte in my car now and I love it.. Its been in the family 4yrs strong bouncing between two cars not one issue. My friends is going to try out a hx35 in his laser and maybe I'll compare results then but to me the holesets are the new...

Before I had my boost controller in my 2g I was in same range.. So I would say its pretty normal be around 13psi and drop back down to 10 to 11psi just before redline.. But this was also with a t25 with just and intake at the time..

I slightly used hallman es boost controller..if ya want..:thumb:

That flutter sounds like you have a compressor surge issue..

I just picked up a complete innovative MSBC-1 unit .. I was wondering if anyone has any experience with this unit or atleast used something like it for boost by gear? this is what it looks like..

That looks like a propane valve..

I've searched and gathered alot of info on doing the swap but this is too much for me to handle. I wanted to know if there is any dsm shops in the tri-state area that performs these conversions and how much am I looking at?

Alternator over charging.. Check the fuses under the hood.

If your new short block has no balance shafts then your oil press would drop I'm not sure how much yours dropped but its a noticable drop. Also depending on who built your motor theres a plug/bolt thats goes in the back of the bottom section of the block that can be mistaken for a misc bolt hole...

OK... CEL? Next thing by chance in the process of installing this fmic , did you disconnect your coolant temp sensor? What condition are your plugs in? Why the fmic if you don't have a boost gauge, and other supporting mods? It can also be your CAS acting up. Theres too many variables. simple...

:confused:What about the ignition switch? Did you look into that?

I had a punishment racing one on my car before I changed my whole setup around still got it sitting in a corner let me know if you want it I'll sell it for $60 shipped. Its not too bad once your wastegate flap is not leaking. If your flap leaks then you have to put spacers/washers on the...

Im thinking headgasket. Is blown out/faulty on one of the coolant passages. If you decide to pull the head post up pics of the gasket.

I asked if the head was milled because once in a while a mill job goes wrong where a head gets ruined but being that you holding good compression i'm kind of stumped myself.

Not to thread jack but exactly how much water wetter would be needed to drop your temp about 10 deg if thats possible. I always see the stuff for sale but never tried it.

5-10 bucks at the junkyard can get you another assembly and from there let your imagination go wild. If for some reason you fail, you always have your original one to put back in place:hellyeah: