I will definately check them later when I get off work. I was very suprise that all timing marks are still good.

How can you tell if the tensioner arm is bad or the tension pulley?

I was thinking about bent valves or anything that can harm the motor by what has happend. Imagin the bs belt without any teeth on the inside and flat both side. But the bs belt is still hanging in there pretty tight and also the bs upper sprocket is miss align maybe because of it having no teeth.

I know how to replace both belts but I'm not understanding something. Well my harmonic balancer broker off dangling, and I happen to take everything apart on the timing belt side and found that my balance shaft belt is still on but all the teeth are shredded like a flat belt, and my tensioner...

Thank alot. I've done multiple timing belt jobs on these cars and familiar with them. I do plan on TDC everything and redo the whole timing belt job too just to make sure. The belt has some slack but belt was never this loose until this happend. I'll check it out this weekend. Well my cousin...

Recheck timing belt and it is loose... Pretty loose on the top where I can push it down a few to 5 mm.. Anyone have any idea if it can ruin anything else if timing skipped?

I totally understand where you are coming from but in that case we all or most of us made cheap choice by modding these kinds of cars. I'm pretty sure everyone if not most had made the cheap choice as long as it works.

Will the dorman work? One question is when the pulley broke off, the timing belt seem to be sitting to the far driver side on the cams. Anyone on this? Before it was sitting more to the passenger side.

Okay. I found the Dorman From autzone for 79.99 and probably going to get a very good discount on it for maybe even cheaper. Are the dorman like oem?

Thanks.. Timing belt is good and the motor still runs. I am still gonna make sure all timing and everything is line up too..

So I had my car tune and dyno 376 who/325 trq, in June this year to get ready for this July 4th weekend so we went out cruising and I went wot in 2nd gear and my harmonic balancer and split into two pieces and lost the belt, water pump, and power steering altogether. My question is, should I get...

Bought new plugs br8es and gap to .021 and everything ran fine.. Straight pulls to redline..

Check your plugs. If it looks fine, make sure to gap them to the right gap size, .028 is standard.

I took the plugs out and this is what I found in picture here.

I'm at 29psi now.... Is that too much for tuned stock motor! I'll try to regap them at .018 to .020 and see how they run... Then if not I'll get new spark plugs and or switch my wires...

Just done with dyno and everything went great.. I have bpr7es while dyno/tune and now I seem to get spark blow out or major stutter when full boost and in the high rpm level at 5k plus to redline... Gap at .24.So my question is how often am I suppose to change it or am I suppose to change it...

Fp HTA Green JB, 2g ex manifold, 38mm tial WG, FMIC, RC 1000cc, DKS 272's, Magnus smim, full turbo back, 255 rewired, aero AFPR. All tuned on ecmlink v3 with truboost controller and on a fully stock motor with low compression. I cant seem to find my MOD profile with this new updated version...

Here is the final numbers.

Just got my dyno/tune. Let me know what you think or any suggestion.

I know how to set it up and everything, I just don't want to make any change.... It's all setup and also zeroed out.

Thanks. I'm not sure how to adjust the truboost and will not try to due to untune mods plus I don't liek untune wot. What you said is more of a relief. Like I said, It holds and reads boost perfectly. I'm just gonna assume it's working but while dynoing, I'll just have to bring a extra boost...

I bought a tru boost from a friend, and I'm wondering if it's working correctly. What are some signs of it not running right?My vacuum is usually lower when in gear and not on gas around 19-20, but when in nuetral, it sits at around 12-14 idling. My wastegate spring is 1 bar and it is rate...

I've search and I could not find anything. I'm ready for a dyno/tune at the dyno shop. It's below 4 degrees now/here in MN, but should warm up into the 15 degree mark next coming up week. The shop/tuner said the cold weather can effect the tuning process or make it a little more work to get it...

Thanks guys. I'll put in a 180 degree and set the offset and see what happens. Fans dont kick in until exactly 210 degree. So maybe offsetting the fans to come in early might help.

On my ecmlink log, the car does get to normal operating temp around 200-210 and does go into closedloop while normal temp idling and cruising. The coolant needle stay about 1/3 of the way on dash with the 160 t-stat.. Will I have any problems? I'm trying to get this right before dyno session...

Thanks for everyones input.

I have bad camber in the rear driver side. I'm ready for a dyno but was wondering if the bad camber will effect in the dynoing process? It's not that bad but by looking at it, it's noticable. If you go in and look at my avatar picture, that's how it looks like on the rear driver side.

I got it home last night. I basically had to overlap the cables and use a visegrip to tighten it down very hard and was able to shift to 1st throught 4th gear home. Thanks for all the suggestion.I have a spare shifter cable too so I won't have to buy a new one. Thanks though.I...

Yeah my street disc and act 2600 clutch is still fairly new and hopefully I can make it home without any red lights.

So I shouldn't drive it in 3rd and 4th gear home? Its about 15 miles mostly highway. Whats best thing for me to do? Tow it home? Will it help if I rev it high and stick it in 3rd and use 4th on the highway?

My 91 talon upper shifter cable nearest to the motor snap and I cant seem to get into some of the gears? For sure I cant get it into 1st, 2nd, 5th and reverse, I think. Can anyone tell me what gear I can use with just the bottom cable? I just need to get home from work.I have a 92 eclipse...

I had my fp HTA green untuned. With 272's, all I can say is that it pulls pretty darn good with minimum 14 lbs of boost. Spool is slower then smaller turbo but once you get in the 5k rpm, it pulls way stronger. I'm waiting to get a tuned and see how she pulls in the upper 20 psi. Not much lag at...

I had the same issue. Stuttering on high rpm only when boost. It was gapped at .028 when I first use e-85 and bumped it down to .024 and stutter went away and at .028 was perfect for when I was still on 93 pump. It really felt like a boost leak but happen to just be the spark gapp.

I'm not exactly sure what the smell of albohol smells like but I sure can smell some odor out the exhaust pipe. i'll check into the afr's and timing to see where they are too. I'll try to post up a log here.

Fairly new knock sensor. And no goo coming out of the back or anything.

So I shouldn't be doing that since knock is showing?

I keep getting knock while in the middle of doing a launch control. I set it to 3.5k and 4.5k and both get knock. Is this something that I should worry about? I'm running e-85. Doesn't get any knock on normal driving and short distant pulls.In ecmlink, looking at the graph, whats the...

Problems solved. Thanks. Plug gap are too wide. Gapped it down to .023ish and that fixed the stuttering problems. Guess I have to run smaller gap with e-85. It was gapp at .028 on pump and no problem and now on e-85 at .023 works. Pull strong to red line without any stuttering problems now...

Thanks. I will give that a try and still going to perform a boost leak test. I'm going to gap it at .024 first and see what happens.One other thing to add, my launch control is set at 4.5 and it feels weak, slow and stuttering. It's not fast like normal like how it was. Half the slowness.

A local reputable tuner said it shouldn't matter on e85 much and with e85, gap should be .024 and could just be something else like plugs, coil, ignition might be a factor.

No record....So what you are saying is that I can add regular 93 pump gas into the half tank of e85 and it'll be alright? I'm trying to get some answers from one of the local tuners and see what he got also. I would love to go back to pump gas to see the results.

As far as I remember on e85 at wot was like around 12ish for air fuel according to link. The exhaust leak is very minor so that can be out of the way. I'll try to post up a log when I get home later the afternoon.

I'm still on E-85 and still have half a tank left in there. I can try to switch back but I'm not sure if that's the reason why it's causing the studdering.I have a brand new intake manifold gasket in and it's not even about 500 miles yet on the motor. Would leaking gasket from o2 housing to...

MODS are in profile.I can slowly gas it all the way to redline but as soon as high boost kicks in at anytime after 4-5k rpm, then it spudders with some jerk in there. It sputter different from a foul uneven gap spark plugs which I know how that's like. Its more like a soft popping exhaust...

Thanks. I just end up getting the fiav bypass and fix my cold high up and down idling. Now idles right around 750rpm to 900rpm on cold start.

Mods in profile. I just recently switch to e85 and was wondering if it would be good to drive it. I've change some setting on ecmlink on the base idle tune and was wondering if Ill be able to drive it or do I need a full tune on it?So far, got my airflowperrev to .25-.27. Global is -35 and...

I can't seem to turn the valve to close the fiav. I try, but just end up ruining the little holes. Any other idea or is it necassary? Is there like a special tool for that? How far is it suppose to bottom out? There is a little gap about half a centimeters.Thanks

I just bought one from orielly not too long ago but I didn't even bother asking which one I got. Stupid me. I'll try a new stat, cap, and flush the system like said.

Thanks . Well, I've been checking the last couple times when I was logging through ecmlink, fan seems to turn one around 210 when I stopped at McDonald's to check it, they were and again when I got home. Not sure while in driving and doesn't seems to overheat while driving too.Ecmlink coolant...

So on my way home after work and everything was all good, then I stop at a gas station for gas then drove off. I notice the stock coolant gauge just starting to go up slightly then by then it hitted the top mark. So I pulled over and found that my water hose going to the throttle body blew off...