Where can I get an electric pump like that? And the adapter too.

$800 for my 95 GST in 06, just had a misfire because of plugs and no front bumper cover.

I have about 30 sec to respond to this right now but I have almost the exact same noise/situation in a 2g talon. I'll probably have time to work on it this weekend, this car is an electrical nightmare.

Has this been resolved?Please note also that smoke from a turbo leaking oil will be more whitish than burning oil from the combustion chamber (more blueish). I would not assume that it's your head gasket yet.Make sure you are running the correct size oil restrictor if you are feeding...

Highly suggest regulating that fuel pressure, I'm getting one of those Fuel labs and I have a 235lph pump with 650's.

I have a yellow GST, my brother has a black GSX.Been a couple times to Shelor with the GST, haven't taken the GSX yet.We also do a lot of autocrossing (very fun).

yes that would cause a problem, you would be fighting any flow that you are getting to the radiator, not to mention pushing hot manifold air into the radiator

Ha, try the simple fix first. Good to hear that

Ha I pay what he asks, maybe thats the key! Oh and I am in no way calling you out Mark

hmm that is strange that the guy that started the thread about getting a catless exhaust got his car inspected in my area and I could not. In fact the inspector red_devil told me he goes to is the one that failed me. :banghead: :rolleyes:

Unfortunately some of us are blessed with inspectors that say otherwise, I have the same problem. I have an Apexi GT DP that I need to replace with a short DP (from ebay) and some catalytic converter with 3 inch flanges on both sides, I know RRE makes a kit for this but the cat is 190 bucks and...

Ironically I accidently stumbled across a wrecked GSX in a junkyard that I noticed as I was driving by. It had an EPROM that I got for 75 bucks, fenders for 80, and a bunch of piping. One pipe was 2.5 inch and the exact shape I needed for this job. I also picked up UICP up to the TB with a 1g...

is the computer throwing P0505? Have you done the test yet?

Get rid of those plugs you bought and get the NGK BPR6es. Don't put platinum plugs in there. Get NGK wires. Don't put in all that additive B/S. Again, I STRONGLY recommend those plugs/wires.

The stock exhaust is 300 or so miles away and rusted to hell. The axleback that goes over the suspension had to be cut to remove it, so it can't be re installed. And I plan on limping the car to the inspector with an exhaust that does nothing but pass, then limping home and putting the parts...

I have an idea, if anyone has improvements or other ideas give me a post. Step 1: buy a cheap ebay DP, which is inevitably cat-delete. Step 2: get my cat back from No VA. Step 3: cut ebay pipe to fit the stock cat in. Step 4: place in car, inspect. you fill in the rest. This way I don't hack...

I have a stock cat that I want to modify to fit this whole mess, and I did think of your solution (welding it over top of the Apexi). Its worth a try to save all that money, but I'd have to get it inspected elsewhere since he has already seen the Apexi DP and would recognize it. Maybe I should...

Well, it's funny you ask about different shops because this guy was recommended to me by another DSMer because he lets no cats and spray go. Otherwise I would have brought it to one of the bozos on main street who do what you said. But now that its been branded ghostbuster up front, they will...

Well I've run into another roadblock on inspection day, it happens every year (and renders my car un-drivable until fixed). He looks over all of the parts like brakes etc. that make a car safe, then keeps going. He opens the hood and sees my SS tubular O2 housing behind the cut stock heat...

Replace your plug wires immediately, and while your at it your plugs. My car was like this when I first got it, except worse, and every misfire problem I've had has been either plugs or wires. First, when I bought the car on t-25 on wastegate pressure (lowest boost setting) it would not...

The Plx wideband o2 is great, it self calibrates and can be hooked up to log. I decided to go with the plx over the AEM, but the AEM uego is popular also, you can't go wrong between those 2. Right now you have a narrowband setup, and like everyone said, they are no more than a light show.

im running an E3 16g, im running 15psi with stock injectors, im getting 11.1:1 AFR and that is safe. I recommend getting a logger and looking at injector duty cycle. Also exhaust gas temp. gauges help with this issue.

yes I did. I think so at least. BTW thx for responding to this old threadthere was some sort of error message I think.

bump, i can't get rid of the missing snj2tntclib.dll error even though I put it in c/windows/system32. I'm running vista. Why doesn't anyone ever respond to this thread?

well i ordered a 45* coupler on ebay that goes from 2.5 inch to 2.25 inch. I ordered some more couplers and I did some cutting. The fact that I found that coupler (which they don't sell on extreme psi) made it possible for me to fix this. At first I had the 90* bend coming off the pipe in...

I don't think an e3 would do that, that's why I got rid of the t 25. It's doing that because of the boost controller spring is too soft. I found that out by reading the manual :banghead: . I have a heavier spring but I'm not going to run 17 pounds on a regular basis anyway.And for the OP...

jeff, my dejon tool LICP for the 16g is in the way for me to run it like you did. I looked at it carefully, there is no way I can do that. It comes off the compressor housing, drops, then goes to the passenger side. Those pipes are not pre made, I ordered "do it yourself" from extreme psi...

it isn't 18 lbs, my boost gauge isnt all that great but it might be spiking to 16/17 then settling at 15. I only did this experiment one night, one time and i didn't get why the afr's were so rich. This car is driven once a week or less at 14/15 psi.

yeah it probably was a spike. There's NO WAY my ported evo 3 is running outa breath at 17 psi. It has a ported 2g mani, tubular 02 housing, catless dp, and 80mm catback behind it.My injectors are still stock 450cc, i guess the IX pump is putting out alot of pressure?Maybe the 1gbov is...

Here are the pictures

how am i still seeing 10.9:1 AFR on my PLX devices sm afr when im running 17 psi on an E3 16g and and evo IX pump? And why does the boost DROP OFF to 15psi at higher rpms?

k im gonna go pop off the bumper now. ive been running around all day looking for somewhere to get rid of an Audi cat, then only got 30 for it.

that looks great, but i have no idea how you found enough space there to get that piping through. everything is in the way in the engine bay. I just popped the bumper back on today so im gonna take it back off to take pics. until then ill try to elaborate: if you look closely at my old IC...

its an auto x car so response is important, especially off boost since i dont spool to full boost often. I guess the question i can't answer is whether or not hunting down 2.5 inch piping is worth it in order to avoid the neck down at the BOV area.

we made a custom Cold air intake outa PVC piping for a 90s dodge caravan, ill let you know how it goes. Im sure the temperatures will be hotter than post-intercooler intercooler piping. The only reason we did PVC was that it is the worst beater car ive ever seen and we were feeling silly and...

is it worth seeking out 2.5 inch UICP or is the Dejon UICP that's 2.25 inches fine for a 16g?Edit: All piping from compressor to the fender (after intercooler) is 2.5 inch, I have a 1g throttle body to put in.

Hey, I've got an FMIC that sends the air back toward the passenger's side after it exits the intercooler. As it stands I have no way to connect the outlet of the IC to the UICP. I have 2 pieces of mandrel bent 2.5 inch aluminum, one at 45 degrees and one at 90 degrees. They have 6 inch legs...

My car does this also, but it doesn't do it when I lower the boost. So this is because the air is cold (which it is)? So it's fuel cut? e316g at 15psi it buckles, at 10psi it doesnt. I tightened all of my couplers from turbo to TB, but it still does it. Regapped the plugs to .028 from .030...

Hey, I know this is an old thread, but I've got the sheetmetal and weatherstripping. Does anyone have any pictures of ducting that worked well? I could use some ideas.

Angelo's Mitsubishi - a set on FlickrPhotos of the 14b

Every time I skimp on getting quality parts, it bites me in the ass. Every new, name brand part I've bought has fitted and has not blown or failed on me. This is a bad place to skimp, almost as bad as that helmet two posts back:tease:

I'm picking up evo injectors for 80 bucks, running an evo IX pump for 30 bucks, and I plan on getting link. I think thats doing well with little money.

What about putting an evo pump in with evo injectors? Both out of a IX. Planning on getting link v3 when it comes out, but do I need an FPR for the evo pump? It's not rewired. Just with the pump it shows 10.2 AFR up to 11.1 AFR at 10 creep to 15psi. Ubpiped: you can pick up an evo IX pump...

two black friday sales: Mishimoto with no fans for $175 or Punishment Racing's radiator with slim fans for $220 or the same setup with the shroud for $270. Which one should I get?

I wanted to buy that special, where else can I find a deal like that?? Should have jumped on it. If someone could answer calan's question it would help me out too.

Oh and BTW I still have those videos but I haven't posted any of them yet. I'll put a link to them when I get around to posting them.

My bad dude, must have misunderstood. I got that most of your $ was in motor though.I think the FWD DSMs have a good shot in Time Attack.AWD DSMs have to compete with built Evos and STi's so its tougher.FWD might be the way to go!

I have a E3 16g in with stock fuel (look in profile for the rest). I was fine until this fall came. I was running 10.8-11.2 AFR at 8psi creeping to 11. I put in the boost controller until it was always 11psi, (btw I don't really trust my VDO gauge at this point). Now it's going up to...

Really you can't go wrong with either one.My pick is the Evo: cheaper/faster at first to mod, sharper steering response, made by Mitsubishi.STi: Better semi-daily street car, better for driving girls in, sounds badass, high ultimate grip, can be modded to the point of insanity just like...