My '91 GSX that I've owned for 23 years (not a newbie) and put a 2G MAF in it 3 years ago ran great - low 12's at 112mph and several thousand miles driving - until now. I'm getting a 12 error code which is for Air Flow Sensor. I checked the connector pins as specified in the FSM and all are good...
My 91 GSX... It doesn't have a Fuel Pump Test terminal. The FSM says it's right here, in the firewall harness, behind the battery. Supposed to be a Black wire with White stripe. I've owned the car for 22 years and never found one. Anybody else have the same issue? I'll fab one if it isn't shown...
UPDATE: Not solved! I bought another 1G Turbo ECM, plugged it in and it started. I let it warm up for 5-10 minutes and shut it off. Re-started it. No problem. Backed it out of the garage. Shut it off again and re-started it. Drove around the block, shut it off and restarted it. Went for a drive...
So the PiLink is "just a box", no display, no indicators, no switches? So it could be mounted anywhere - under the dash, in the console? Just needs accessibility for a USB drive? So it's only a "recording box" for logs, akin to the hard drive and motherboard of a laptop? The additional screen...
Looks fantastic! I can see where this would be VERY beneficial in a race/track car. But how about a street car? Although I am very automotive savvy, I am not very tech savvy with all the components, displays, options available. How do all the components work/mount/install?? What needs to be...
Well I replaced the original with a black top and it still happened. I tested both and they both passed. I just took apart the original, which has 207,000 miles on it. It did have some leaking but nothing on the wheel or the optical sensor. I'm going to clean it up and keep it for a spare. It's...
I just did that test as shown in the FSM. Continuity good on the ground, System voltage is 12v, 4.98v on the other two pins. I swapped the power transistor with another I had and got the same results.
FWIW... Chevy rocker arm pivot balls make great mounting "bushings" and you can get them free if you know where to look. You reuse the insert, and then just a couple washers. I've been using mine for 15 years now. Just recently revamped the whole unit wih home built oilite bushings and rust...
91 GSX, 6 bolt, stock cams, head, engine. Stock ECU with TMO chip...I've had it for 22 years so I'm familiar with DSM's and not a newbie.
My car doesn't have a fuel pump connector on the harness in the engine compartment that I can find. I was thinking I had a fuel pressure issue so I searched...
I think technically Ram Air is funneling or routing direct, outside 'cool' air to the intake in a sealed manner so there some gains from positive pressure, which couldn't happen if it wasn't sealed.
Put together a Ram Air/Freash Air intake on my '91 GSX for about $15 using the stock SMIC ducting (I no longer have the stock side mount IC) some dryer ducting, scrap ploycarb sheet, and some fabrication.I carefully cut the polycarb sheet to fit the back of the stock duct so the round dryer...
This thread may help ID it ...http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/drivetrain-tech/179513-new-fidanza-6-puck-now-having-noise-vibration.htmlRick - '91 GSX :dsm:
I'm with turboglenn on this one. I'd bet the pedal assembly bracket is cracked like mine was. The whole thing is just made from sheetmetal. Unfortunately it is buried so far up under the dash it is almost impossible to see. I took mine out (pita!) to put in bushings and found a huge crack in it...
You'll have to beat it out!! Here's my bet: The side gear thrust washer is smeared like butter (It's soft) and jammed the side gear in the case half. I have my old one still on the shelf and it's broken in two from hammering it out of the center diff.Rick - '91 GSX :dsm:
Your gear ratio doesn't determine your ET, your horsepower does. Go here - ET Calculator -Plug in your cars weight. I guessed at 3200 (probably high). Plug in your trap speed of 126mph. It calculates that on a perfect launch and run you could do 10.80's!!In any case your making 500 whp...
Congrats!! :thumb: If your race weight (with you) is 2750 and you're trapping 115.69 mph it calculates to 332 whp. If you factor ABOUT a 20% AWD loss you're at 398 flywheel horsepower. I'd call it 400 and be happy!!:thumb:Rick - '91 GSX :dsm:
It CAN harm a lot! Without that ball in there the output shaft is allowed to slide back and forth under acceleration and THAT'S what wears out the splines!
Be SURE to put that retaining ball back in there!Rick - '92 GSX :dsm:
If the internal gears spin at all it's NOT a welded diff. The purpose of welding the diff is to keep those gears from turning (differentiating).Rick - '91 GSX :dsm:
Yea... not-so-much! ;) But I was asking them about the failed output shaft splines, not handling. See my pic in the post above. That's the SECOND shaft that failed on my car, and no one could tell me what the problem was. I figured if anyone was making output shafts fail it would be their 10...
WHOA!! That is SOOOOO wrong! See those worn down output shaft splines??<img src="http://www.dsmtuners.com/gallery/files/7/9/2/7/failed_shaft1.jpg" alt="Failed Output Shaft" />
That's from the output shaft moving back and forth and filing itself to death inside the xfer case. That ball...
Those cams will rev right up to the rpm where your engine blows!!As far as what their max power range is THAT would depend on your specific engine mods. But for some general info on them you can't beat the cam tests that AMS did back in the day... AMS Infamous DSM Camshaft test | HKS |...
I cut mine years ago! I cut the round shaft at the bottom, ground the weld flat, cut about 1" or so off the shaft, and rewelded it. With skatewheel bearings on the cables and solid shifter mounts it was a HUGE improvement over stock!The best part...... all $$$ FREE $$$Rick - '91 GSX :dsm:
Yes,... we've been wrenching on DSMs for a long time! :thumb: That's why it was a RESPECTFULL "disagreeance". (I like that word!)
I can't say I remember theirs at the time. But I had already spent over $400 just to replace input/output shafts - TWICE!! I wasn't going through that again! I...
I respectfully disagree GRNDSM, and that's from an experience standpoint. I welded mine 12, or 13 (?) years ago, back when the only option was a Cusco $1400 unit, and I have over 100,000 miles on it. It does not handle poorly, the ONLY drawback is during slow, very tight turns. Any other time it...
I welded mine and it's held up over 12 years of daily driving, autocrossing, street bombing, and I drive it like I stole it!!Here's my write up on how I did it. http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-drivetrain/173481-welding-center-diff-how-why.htmlRick - '91 GSX :dsm:
I have a setup very similar to yours, minus the 272's, and I am probably close to 320awhp.I dyno'd at 275 awhp with my old 14B at 18 psi and a Starion IC. That's about 320 engine.With the B16G and new intercooler I know it's close to 320awhp. One of these days I'll get it back to AMS...
It doesn't mean your trans needs a complete rebuild, but the center diff does. If the diff didn't frag any parts inside the trans you could just rebuild, replace, or weld the center diff and reinstall it.You might WANT to take the opportunity to check the synchros and bearings and such while...
Look close at your picture. See all the filings right under your red line?? That is classic illustration of center diff failure.The output shaft should not move more than a few thousanths. When it does move in and out it starts filing itself to death.I don't think a new shaft has the...
A spring in the clutch disc wouldn't effect the pedal and make it go to the floor.You're gonna hafta start checking everything in the system. Check the pedal itself, the cross-shaft it pivots on, the pedal arm - where it attaches to the shaft, and the adjusting rod. It's very hard to check...
Do you have an aluminum flywheel with an aftermarket clutch? It could cause a decell vibration. Read these from some posts I made years ago:That was back in '05 and I still haven't pulled the trans yet! I've just lived with it!Rick - '91 GSX :dsm:
If you have a non-posi center diff (or front diff) there's nothing to 'slip' in it. If it fails it just breaks and scatters parts, or it locks up causing tire skipping. There's nothing I can think of that would cause a center diff to slip.The part that can slip is a burned up Viscous...
That's good info. Now you know.Here's a quote from the VFAQ site and why it may be incorrect:
Apparently the shop manuals don't even mention a change in 2g ratios. That's why the DSM community is awesome!! We know more than the factory guys do!!:thumb:And we share it with everyone...
Here's why I think this works. It's not because there are two pressure sources, but that there's more AREA for the pressure to work on.If the actual metal valve is, say, 1 square inch in area, then 10 psi in the intake pushes with 10 pounds of force to try to open it. If the diaphram is also...
I'm conused that you're confused!! WTFThat chart lists 1G, 2G, AWD, FWD, VR4s, Manuals, and Automatic.What else is there??It was last updated in 2000 so it doesn't include 3Gs or 4Gs, but we're not talking about those... are we? :confused:Rick - '91 GSX :dsm:
That's still only one source... pressure from the intake pipe. Whether it's pushing against the valve or the underside of the diaphram makes no difference. If you drilled more 'ports' to the diaphram it wouldn't add more pressure.
That's holding the valve closed not open.
Pressure in the...
Don't ever feel dumb when asking to learn more!A 'two step' refers to a Two Step Rev Limiter. One step is set to limit RPM on the starting line for your launch, and the second step is your upper rev limit.On my GSX I can push in the clutch and mash the gas pedal. It revs to 5000 and...
A 'Blow Off Valve' is a pressure differential valve not just a valve. At WOT it has the same pressure on the front AND the back of the vlave, so theoretically it works at ANY pressure! It doesn't HOLD any pressure.When the throttle closes there is more pressure in front (intake pipe side)...
Is there any wear on the splines, like this...<img src="http://www.dsmtuners.com/gallery/files/7/9/2/7/failed_shaft1.jpg" alt="Failed Output Shaft" />Rick - '91 GSX :dsm:
Do you have a lightened or aluminum flywheel??http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/drivetrain-tech/179513-new-fidanza-6-puck-now-having-noise-vibration.htmlRick - '91 GSX :dsm:
If you have a VCE the KAAZ center diff is a moot point. The VCE locks the output shaft to the center diff so it can't 'differentiate'. Those clutch plates aren't working at all. It's pretty much the same thing as a welded diff. That's why you feel the skipping on tight turns.Put a Viscous...
I cut mine about 1 1/2" shorter about 10 years ago! It is MUCH better than stock and FREE! (I can weld) :thumb:<img src="http://www.dsmtuners.com/gallery/files/7/9/2/7/gaugesshifter.jpg" alt="Gauges & Shifter" />Rick - '91 GSX :dsm: