its not a bleeder type. Its a ball and spring type.the bleed hole is just there to help keep boost spikes in control. Without it the boost will spike until the pressure inside the controller can bleed off and allow the ball to re seat once the boost you want is reached.A bleeder type...

without knowing your car, your conditions etc, I can only tell you what works for my car but I am thinking roughly around 13.2 down to about 12.8 or so.at 30% throttle tho, it will easily and quickly go to more boost, and so it will need to richen up. even with my fairly large turbo by 3900...

if you are trying to save fuel, I suggest you go even leaner in your low load maps. Off idle, and low to mid range rpm low throttle areas, I use up to 15.5:1. You can even go a tad leaner, but it gets fussy around there, so you can experiment, but for my altitude and fuel, this seems to work...

toad5tool, change your oil! That whole time your two cylinders that were not firing were still squirting fuel in! This washes your cylinder walls down and thins out/contaminates your engine oil.If on the off chance that it was two injectors crapping out at the exact same time, please...

those numbers are not lift, but as said earlier, duration. As in how long the valve is open in degrees of rotation.The lift is how far open the valve is, ie, how far off the seat that the valve is. Measured in mm or parts of an inch.There is much more to a cam than duration, and even...

Micheal, I personally don't think a real 14b(no other wheels, no other housings etc)with no nitrous can flow that much air, enough for 350 wheel hp. its just too small.Dynojets seem to be pretty optimistic compared to Mustang dynos or real world hp calculations. IE, with my 3076r and an...

wow, its been a while since I did any 14b stuff. You guys are really taking it to the next level cubed!!I will put in my 2 cents, because it was fun while I did it and I think I was the fastest 14b in BC, possibly in Canada on a full weight pump gas car.Car was bone stock from valve...

thats really wierd.For one, the stock pump on most Japanese cars of this vintage almost never fail. I have only changed 1 or 2(I only remember 1) fuel pump on a Japanese car in my career as a mechanic. Thats about 8 years, I know, not for ever, but its still a significant time. I change...

and advance it under low load situations.

also is your base timing set correctly?if its off, you will have these issues.Do a full decarbonization of your engine, not just spraying it in while running, but let a fair amount of the chemical sit on your pistons and intake valves overnite, change the oil and then run it up. It will...

any specific break point on the 1" master cylinders?IE, any 2 piston car is a 1"? or is there something else to ask for/search for when ordering one?

+1 more for a properly fitting, double layer insulated FP manny heat shield.

I would guess not as there would be more noise/carnage if one of them was actually broken.Recheck all your timing marks and make sure that the rear shaft is "in phase" because the marks can be lined up and still the rear shaft can be out 1 full turn.Check the VFAQ for more detailed...

its not leaking out there, its bypassing vacuum out the vacuum port.And as for the "working fine" bit, its not working fine, its just working better than the faulty aftermarket one. And it has the same problem that every other big pump stock regulator 1g car has. The pressure regulator is...

subscribing.and adding that mine has suffered a loss of vacuum as well.I was/have been chasing a driveability issue as well as a random knocksum issue for a while now.I put a secondary vacuum hose on it, plugged the one that goes to the vacuum nipple on the regulator and applied...

if both are the same octane level, the non alcohol fuel will have more energy per unit and will give more power and better fuel economy.If you have 91 gas and 93 alcohol/gas, the 93 will give better performance on a turbo or high compression engine as it will allow full boost/more timing

seems about right for me. Picked up about 100 hp at the dyno, mostly from 5 more psi of boost, but correct a/f ratio(11.3-1-11.6:1) pretty even did the rest.I run pump gas and methanol injection on a 57trim TO4E bb

subscribing.Great patience, great fab, excellent sticktuitiveness!!My only reservation is the small, asymetrical 7cm Mitsu housing on the primary. I have no doubt it will work, but I also am not sold on the fact that that wee housing can flow enough exhaust for 600hp.Very cool tho...

I have heard both ways actually, but I took it down till it was all a uniform colour.How long did yours smoke for? I am getting close to starting mine up(life gets in the way).

I have done some reading and frankly, I am more confused now than before. Some say one thing, some say another etc.I figure if you can get the intake valve open a bit sooner, you can stuff more air in, but then its also going to close sooner too. Duration is the same, but in relation to...

I have done some reading and frankly, I am more confused now than before. Some say one thing, some say another etc.I figure if you can get the intake valve open a bit sooner, you can stuff more air in, but then its also going to close sooner too. Duration is the same, but in relation to...

he is correct!There is a 3.0mm oil ring land gap and a 2.8mm oil ring land gap!! Yea, lets change it THAT much!I found this out the hard way. Hastings had some.If you have 1g rings, they will fit all 1g pistons and most of the 2g pistons. But if you have 2.8mm oil rings, they will...

change your oil and filter. And before you drain it, maybe wash down the oil return holes with new oil.Make sure the turbo oil lines are clean too. maybe flush out the turbo center section thru the oil feed line, and spin the turbo by hand while you flush it out.

powerglide?whats the estimated power? Whats it weigh?Gasoline? What do you rev it to?

so its completely air tight from the bottom?If so, well, those louvres are just useless on there then.

releases underhood pressures and keeps the front end from lifting. (on the NSX)

not with those flanges, but the cold side housing does look like one.

I suggest you use big rods. Not sure if the N/T rods are big, but if they are go for it.Turbo pistons are much more robust, and have stronger ring lands to take more abuse. I would really strongly suggest using turbo pistons. 1g or 2g, but turbo ones. You CAN use N/T pistons and they...

I think it MIGHT be from an older Volvo 240 turbo. They look like that.not sure on the flanges however, it may be a Saab part with those flanges.If its a direct bolt up, go for it, but if you have to finesse it or remanufacture or fabricate much of anything, its not worth it. Nothing...

How far away from Bellingham is Lynwood?I live just over the Canadian border from Bellingham(well maybe 15min or so) and I could conceivably bring 50 cars out if its a real big meet :)Probably 5-10 is more likely, but we have 1500 members in BCDSM.

I have gone the other way, by putting TSi springs in my awd Galant, and it was a performance upgrade.I can't see the N/T springs to be a good idea in the turbo awd car, even if the lengths were correct(which they are not) because its for a lighter, lower powered, way less sporty car.so...

if you do any sort of handling competition, such as autox or even like to carve the canyons, on ramps etc alot, leave the camber like that.Camber does not kill tires, it just exaggerates and concentrates the wear from the toe. This is for real, and most techs and alignment guys won't want...

if the spline counts are different, you simply need a transfer case that is the same spline count as the new tranny.Look on the tranny, just under where the vent tube would be, in front of the CAS on the valve cover(but on the tranny) and you will see a code.it should be W5M33. If its...

the water pump can keep up with that no problemlook at the throttle body on a stock DSM, or the oil filter housing/oil cooler on a 91-94 turbo oneI do this for a living and I see some really long coolant lines. No issue once they are under pressure.I would run the water lines if I...

well it turns out I have the smaller oil ring lands. I can't fit the 3 part oil ring into the land on those.Does anyone happen to have a Sealed Power number for the correct one?

oh crap, I need to measure that oil ring land as I have the rings aready!I am a professional mechanic and the listings in our catalogues didn't show different part numbers for '91 and '95 turbo ring sets.I bought a set of Sealed Power rings part number E-522KC. I believe these are...

I was actually hoping you would reply :)the originals are definately turbo, so I am comparing it to that. My car is a 91 awd 5spd turbo and I pulled them myself.And they are definately big rods, as I have my original rods to compare them to as well. And a small rod kicking around so...

I have what I believe to be 2g pistons on 1g rods, but I am not sure if they are 2g turbo or 1g n/t pistons.Obviously the dish is deeper on my stock 1g turbo pistons, so I know that the new pistons are higher compression, but how do I tell if they are in fact 2g TURBO pistons?I have...

Funny that I was the last person to post before you because once I hit my self imposed hell of breaking into the 12's with all the rules I made, I wanted to upgrade and I found a used -10.I like it for sure, it was a bit laggy at first to me, but after driving some other cars(50 trim etc) I...

245/45 is gonna be way too big on a 17" wheel on a 1g car, but as far as fwd and awd, they will be the same or similar for tire sizes. You won't want to put bigger tires on the back of your fwd anyways, so the size will be dictated by your front tires and they are the same as on an awd car...

that is some sort of 16g. Its a Mitsu turbo by the TDO5h designation. The Garrets are also downward facing, not up/forward. A 14b will have the same TDO5h, but it has one layer compressor wheel, where this one pictured has a dual layer design(one tall compressor, then one short one, repeated).

Just did a bunch of this in school(auto mechanic)the equation is stroke volume + clearance volume devided by clearance volumenow of course stroke volume is pi x radius squared x height. You have these values.But you DON'T have your clearance volume. this needs to be accurate. Its...

I suggest you do a compression test as well.If something was slightly wrong when you did your install(out a couple of teeth, not waiting long enough for lifters to bleed down before starting etc) you could have a bent valve or 2. This will cause crappy vacuum at idleI suggest you do...

I would also caution on trying to remove boost creep too agressively. Yes creep sucks, but it can be dealt with.what can't be dealt with is boost falling off. If you ever plan on running more than 16 or 17 psi, I would be careful.I ported my turbo but left my wastegate passage...

just to clear things up here, the 1.8 single cam Mitsu engine in question is alot different than the 1.6, 1.8, 2.0 or 2.4 twin cam engines and completely different from the 420a Chrysler engine.

I don't know where to find one but I can give you some pointers for sure.drain coolant.disconnect downpipe from exhaust manifold. disconnect wiring from injectors and other things. disconnect fuel lines. Remove and disconnect any other things that will physically hold the head back. Remove...

port it, port it, port it :) You want to port the turbine inlet to an Evo gasket and the outlet too.I found a well ported 14b to be very potent ;)

cold air. anything you can do to get more cold air into your maf sensor and keep it cold.

they ran it thru to allow the fiav to work. As the coolant heats the workings of the valve, it closes. As it cools, it opens. Thats how it works.I agree that its not needed, and I agree that its uneeded complication, but thats how its done.

If you would have read the whole post, I said "if not already", meaning if they were still stock. and the stock head BOLTS would not be "screwed", but the gasket would possibly blow.