I purchased SSR's to match the power of the heating elements

Thanks for the replies. At the time I was limited on space to work in and money. Now wishing I would built a bigger oven. It's a good hobby oven but as business is expanding I need bigger.

Well I own 3 welders, 2 from Miller one from Lincoln(120v mig) which was my first and I bought it new but as a demo model. Thst was 11yrs ago and it's still going strong. Welder tech. Has greatly improved over the yrs but I still feel you get what you pay for. That being said look at the...

I started to look into trying this with an aftermarket LS7 TB then use link to control the throttle. With the LS TB being electronic it would be easier to set up. Funds and to many other projects that are on the back burner already have prevented this.

http://www.f1technical.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=3012

You need a mold and a vacuum pump. The final part needs to be as close to flawless as possible and the mold too. Plenty of you tube videos on mold making and rear diffuser mock up. Glad to see you followed though and didn't give up!

Are you doing this F1 style anti lag? {\rtf1\ansi\ansicpg1252 {\fonttbl} {\colortbl;\red255\green255\blue255;} } Haha!

How wide are you going? Tire wise that is. I run 245's, rolled my fenders but don't feel it was needed.

It's been done/started don't know if he finished it. Forum member pepper? I don't have time to search for it.

CF like Fiberglass doesn't like sharp bends when doing just a wet layup. If your mold or your doing an overlay has any shape bends the fabric will lift. You need some sort of pressure against it such as a sandwich mold, vacuum bagging, autoclave etc. yes it's better to start off with just FG...

Powder coated my first V/C which happens to be mine and I did it last week. I just have to finish the rest of the engine bay.

Get a dial indicator, pry bar and a buddy. Put dial indicator against HB with engine off of coarse. Push, pry the crank back towards tranny, zero out indicator. Pry, push back the opposite way. I'm pretty sure more than .008 runout indicates your thrush bearings are toast. I don't have my shop...

How so? I've been running it that way since switching over to SD and no issues for me.

externalsensorinput [ECMTuning - wiki]

I've made CF intake tubes and other pieces. What is not mentioned here is the resin. Yes CF is strong, light, and super terrific. But it's nothing without the proper resin. Kind of like a car with no wheels. Do they make high temp resin? Yes they do and it's not cheap. How about dry weave, or...

Are those nutserts?

Yes it was a interesting upgrade to not only mount all the parts but wiring, plumbing and testing it.

You angle it so condensation does not collect in the sensor. It should state that in the instructions.

Yes I've done it as well as several other members. There are several threads on it.

You can buy electric vacuum pumps, drag cars use them for the brakes since high lift/ duration cams have low vacuum. How about electric P/S?

I run mine in place of my front o2 for narrow band simulation http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/tuning-engine-management/371916-narrowband-simulation-aem-uego.html No problems, tune and log it though link.

Is it me or are we forgetting the big picture as to why this happened in the first place? Oil starvation, oil pump failure, dirty oil, blocked port, etc. replacing the head is a short term fix. If you smoked the cams and caps you have metal circulated around the entire engine and you should be...

I bought a grommet/plug set awhile ago and picked one from there. It seals it from rain water. Yes my car is dirty..

I had to heat mine slightly while wiggling it back and forth to get it off. Its AL and the stud is steel so expansion will do its job. The biggest PITA is getting the interior plastic back in place.

its a 2g with a Holset but you get the point http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/drag-strip/440121-new-stock-7-bolt-block-record.html

Stock? you have nothing listed for mods so NGK BPR7ES or BPR8ES which is one range hotter. I've tried the others are come back to the tried and true NGK. Sorry Bogus i'm feeling helpful

Better to replace. It's going to cost you more to have a good quality weld done. Welding cast aluminum effectively and properly is $$. You don't need a ported head. Port match it and that's it. There are plenty of guys running 9's on stock heads.

Thanks guys for the reference! Any future ones can go to my site Home Page or me directly [email protected]

The alternators are known to die on a regular basis. Start with checking voltage, then the battery then the wiring.

I do that commute everyday. Where are you coming from? I come from Frederick and there's a back way when traffic sucks.

That is a nice score! I'd keep it stock

Ha! I've been running one for about 4-5yrs! Had my intake on and off over a dozen times. How did I avoid the above stated problems? Do not over-torque it. Torque it to factory specs does amazing things. Does it act as a heat barrier? Not sure, I have WI.

Yes to above, I've done this twice with positive results. I would strongly suggest replacing the rod bolts.

Yes I did that's kind of what got me interest in building one.

I was getting it from Eastwood and just tried PBTP.

wanted something larger, and may do ceramics which need upwards of 700 degrees to cure. And yes a convection style oven is better for consistent temps.

Been following Justins (Detective Coatings) thread on Link and said "boy that looks like fun!" So I started out purchasing Eastwoods entry level PC gun for $99 and used an easy bake oven and put what ever I could fit in there. Started offering my DZUS fasteners PC'd was doing ok but the...

From my own personal experience I started out with a 3 drawer Craftsman tool box at local GMC dealership starting out just doing oil changes. Bullshited my way in by telling them i knew how to do all kinds of stuff. Within 4 yrs I had collected more than 15k in tools and was the dealerships top...

There M6 bolts

Just out of curiosity what does the main caps look like and is there a "split thrush bearing" used for the mains.

How about aluminum? if your talking about 2g CAS that is.

I must have got the 1 in 1000 slip as my Fragola fitting on my PS return hose leaks like a mofo. Good fittings, just bad luck on my end.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-electrical-wiring/373417-electrical-parts-supplier-list.html you were not specific so hope this helps.

You have a water cooled turbo, why do you need a turbo timer? Did you remove the water lines? And with DSMlink you don't need an additional boost controller, use the one available with link.

Hmm.. I ripped the electric power steering units out of two of them at the local pick and pull. They were both N/A cars. Transplanted one in my GSX. Could you take a picture of the EPMS diagnostic port for me? I think I pulled the right one but the cars were pretty gutted when I got to them.

The spring (bolt) in on the bottom of the oil pump cover. With 193k on it I'd say its smoked. Your bearing clearances I'm sure are at its limits tried looking through the manual for minimal pressure specs but this is the only thing I could find for checking the oil pump.

I hate to say it but from my own personal experience when my oil pump failed I was only holding 5psi at idle and it took out my rod bearings. If you can drain half and use the heavy weight desiel oil. I can't guarantee it's going to work.

What's your mileage? Switch to a heavier weight oil.

Thinking about it more even if you fix the corners it will be noticeable. You could do an overlay after that to keep the CF look and even go with simulated fiberglass that looks like CF. You are adding weight and another layer of glass and resin.

What was (is) your oil pressure at idle?