$190, shipping and PP fees included. Can send pics to those who are interested. We all know what Eagle h beam rods look like. These have ARP 200 bolts (stand offering with off the shelf rods). Have been checked over by my local machine shop (wet magnafluxed for cracks and measured for bend /...
For future searches sake (107-6001) the 9mm 6 bolt specs are 40 lb ft or .0060" stretch. Obviously with the ARP stretch tool costing about $160 people are gonna use the lb ft method, but the bolt stretch method is highly recommend if the proper tools are available. Also, the ARP rod bolt stretch...
.001" is a generally plenty on a full floating wrist pin setup. If your constantly going to see RPM's over 8,500 or more then 30 psi of boost, adding a 1/2 thousandths isn't a bad idea.
One pro for going to an Eagle / Wiseco combo is a full floating wrist pin, which would rev easier, since a full floating setup is naturally free(r) of friction then a press pin setup (IE stock DSM pistons / rods)
Wow, that's kind of surprising. I remember seeing the same wheel (no sure what the offset was) on Fernado (Ostar)'s car and they didn't seem to protrude that much (I don't recall anyway).Hey STM.. Anyway we could get these in say +38 or +40?
Sounds like Dan Rittner, needs to come to the US, (McKinney, Texas) specifically, (where Forced Performance is located) for "vacation" and return home with a 68hta in his carry on bag, claiming he's not bringing anything back to Brazil, just returning from vacation... I hear the F1 race at the...
I'd say figuring out you got the wrong rods in the box, before trying to start the engine, qualifies you, at the very least, as a "competent" builder! Can't wait to see the finished product!
The Volk wheels would poke out the fender worse then a stock EVO 8 wheel your saying? I know they (EVO 8 wheels) seem to protrude ever so slightly in the front, but fit closer to OEM (stock 1g) wheels in the rear. I assume, that since EVO 8 wheels are 8" wide, they (Volk wheels) would stick out...
Ahh ok. I was like man something is definitely not right here. If your giving them numbers and they are that far off! .003" isn't terribly tight, but I wouldn't be taking that thing over 9K or running a lot of boost though it often.. Seems like you got things under control!
If the machine shop couldn't get something as simple as PTW clearance correct (thought earlier you said you requested .0045"), I doubt the bearing clearances are going to be right.. sounds like your machinist needs replaced.
I know this is an older thread, but can you give us the run down on the setup? (boost pressure, FMIC/BOV combo, clutch, etc. (saw a lot listed in your profile, wasn't sure if it was still all true with this dyno sheet, as setups change often, and profiles get updated..)Non turbo to turbo or...
Did you ever find anything? (wheel wise) The Jeg's wheels your talking about are on sale for $110 each (15x8, 5.5" back space, 5x4.5 bolt pattern)(part # 555-681277) Shipping weight is listed at 17.7lbs each. Not back to get into drag racing if you think about it. Get yourself a pair of M&H...
Do you have a turbo brand or budget?Xona Rotor 61-56 would be awesome!http://www.forcedperformance.net/merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=FP&Product_Code=03451&Category_Code=Xona-X3C_Fitment
Can we see a set on a DSM? Couple guys above saying they don't fit to well... Obviously single piston brakes or an aftermarket light brake setup (like STM's) will be needed to clear a 15" wheel, and probably coilovers with a 26" slick..Just curious what about the wheel doesn't fit a DSM...
I wish someone would make a sticky of short block (101) and cylinder head (101) and have all the correct bolt sizes / torque values / etc listed. Along with, a complete, parts list. People don't understand how many parts and bolts there literally are doing work like that. They think, block /...
Not sure how common of an issue this is. This definitely isn't the first BC part I've seen fail, but like I said above, it's the cam core itself that snapped, not the machine work BC did to the cam. Just a bitter sweet reminder even aftermarket parts can fail. This is where the "you gotta pay to...
Don't be afraid to put 95 to 100 lb ft on the ARP's, and make sure you check / re-torque after 50 or so miles. People follow the stock torque spec's for the head studs not realizing how much additional cylinder pressure your putting into the engine.
I replied in your other thread as well, and just to throw this out there. If your doing the timing / front seal / front cover gasket, might as well consider deleting the balance shafts as well.
This is 100% FALSE information. The part number for the crank to flywheel dowel pin is clearly listed on Extremepsi, JNZ, etc's websites. Don't post things you don't know about. It ruins it for everyone else.Also, to the OP, you can definitely run it without the dowel, as stated, the non...
I feel your pain, as I just went threw the same ordeal, with my new to me 92 tsi. Just a few things I tried..http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/no-start-searched-and-tested.518932/Are you running e85? May need to pull the injectors and look for the notorious black goo..
@tametalon92 All the rockers where accounted for and looked great!#crackerman Good thinking, but this car is on SD..So here goes. We got it to start and run, sorta. Turns out the IAT sensor wires had come out of the plug and where not making contact, causing the IAT sensor to tell the ECU it...
It is (used the scalling template provided in link to set the global, think it was -63, I'll look again to verify if need be. I seriously doubt the caps are leaking, as they were just replaced when it was converted and link was installed. (it's a non eprom ecu as stated above). But I'll pull the...
My only real options at this point (I feel) are that the ECU is somehow bad, the wiring harness has a short somewhere that we are unable to find?, or the engine is so low on compression it will not start? I honestly don't believe the last part.
Got a bad one here I believe. I've searched and searched, done test after test, replaced sensors with known good working ones. Continuity tested the wiring harness from sensor plugs back to the ECU. Checked the physical mechanical timing. Drained and replaced to the fuel. Read and followed threw...
I tried emailing him a few times in the last few months about them (the aluminum ones, same things Ron Shearer used to offer). Never got an email back.I ended up going with Jon's (boostx on here) poly ones.
Welcome to the forums. Are you sure you wanna give up? You'll be happy if you just stick it out and finish the project! Nothing beats the feeling of knowing you did it!!
As a person who has worked at a tire shop (CJ's tire), and balanced many, many wheels/tires, I can tell you from first hand experience...You MIGHT (99% will not) MIGHT get them to balance out (you may have to static balance them to even get them close). Unless you REALLY REALLY need to run...
Can't wait to see it finished. Please post lots of pictures along the way! It would be nice to see an "almost" replica of Brian Spilners 2g with the correct drivetrain.. lol
Sounds like maybe they are listing them incorrectly, or they are using the wrong wording. They should be listed as using a "2g / 7 bolt piston, 22mm pin" with a 6 bolt BEW. Or perhaps they are meaning to use a 21mm pin'd piston with a 2g crank? Who's rods are listed as "for a 6 bolt" but with...
The compression ratio you choose is going to depend ALMOST solely on what fuel your able to run. A lot of guys in PA will run e85, but keep in mind, IF something happens, and you can't get e85 (like if your out of fuel, and there's no e85 pump near you), you can't just put pump gas in the car...
Thank you! I appreciate that, if you don't use it, let me know!I'm hoping someone from English Racing will notice this thread and chime in, I recall them being the ones that built the motor (2.2SLR)
@ buddahboost: I did read that article, as well as, "to stroke or not to stroke" PDF another member sent me via PM. While it was info I already knew, it didn't touch on the 2.2 SLR engine I'm considering (maybe that combo wasn't thought of until after it was written?). Non the less, thanks for...
Looking for technical advice, (or opinions) on building a bottom end. Needs to be able to easily turn to 9,500rpm on a regular basis (42r)Not looking for advice on the rest of the build, just the short block. Wanting to do a 2L since it's a simple off the shelf build, but a 2.0 long rod is...
I should keep my mouth shut, but the phrase do it right or do it twice, comes to mind here.Your car already makes over 500whp, unless you honestly plan to stop there (in which case go for the H beam, it's cheaper, lighter, and more forgiving on bearings), or spend the extra couple hundred and...
I'm saying the VRSF kit WILL fit with the auto, if you really bend the isht outta things it may work with both auto and abs, but it's not gonna be fun, or pretty, and it'll probably develop boost leaks often because of the constant strain on the UICP... Not what you want.
Either kit (VRSF or Punishment) would fit my car (swapped to NON ABS, 5 speed car).No kit fit it when it had the auto trans / abs combo. The Auto trans was more the issue than the ABS pump. I'd delete the ABS, and bend / tweak the VRSF kit, if I had to go back, knowing what I know now. I...
It's hard to see because I had to resize the pic to get it to fit within the limits of the posting rules, but the upper pipe has such a hard bend (the one the BOV flanged is welded onto) that it hits the auto trans fill tube / dipstick tube.