Not quite sure which dowel you are referring to.In my experience just remove the torque converter, the drive plate, and the spacer. Install flywheel, and clutch. And you should be good to go!Swapped 2 auto motors into a 5 speed and never had any other issues.

From what I have read on any 4G63 powered car, especially with a ball bearing turbo it should be fed from the OFH with a properly sized restricter. The problem is for example when you are running 7k rpm and then shift say into neutral and the oil pressure drops completely in the head. The turbo...

You will need a cosigner for anything with no credit these days. My understanding is bad credit is better than no credit, at least with bad credit they know you are going to fail and have no reason to give you $$$, with no credit the bank has no clue whether you will pay them back or not.

It's a mustang dyno which typically yields lower results. If you guys read the thread on evoM they were have problems all night with launching, and traction, and ended up blowing off an intercooler pipe. Yes 10.8 isn't very impressive, but on dot radials with 800hp, I would like to see you try...

Yeah definitely an 11 second car. I ran 12.4 and trapped 87mph in the 1/8th. You may even have that thing in the 10's

Get some injectors, link, and an intercooler and you should be at 300 with some more boost.

They usually are pretty good, rust may be an issue after a while. A friend of mine has owned 2 different ones. They seem to fit decently, with a little rubbing sometimes on the suspension in the rear.

Most people choose to go the ACT 2600 range with a street disc. Southbend DXD is another good choice w/ and ACT street disc. I would see which of those 2 fit your budget and go that route.

I have a set of AEM cam gears that already have the plate on them.BTW they are for sale in the classifieds.

Clutch rod needs adjusted, and possible shimming of the pivot ball.

Sounds like the one you got was from an earlier year. The part you are talking about is the cam sensor. You should be able to swap the cam sensor over from the blown motor to the new one and be fine. That should be the only difference from the 98 motor to the new one.

Problem on a 2G is the motor takes up pretty much all the space between the seat and the floor so no way to get to it from the front, the seat is all the way back, their is barely enough room to get my hand/arm in between it and the seats.Plus when the seat goes back the tracks go over the...

Did the Police come? You may have trouble proving anything if you didn't get a police report.

Cams should have a dowel that will line up with the gears.You must time the vehicle with a timing light after getting the CAS installed.

Possible rear main seal or transmission leak onto it?Too much power is what I think though.

Seat is all the way back, I can barely get my hand inbetween the seat itself and the rear seats, the track when all the way back covers the bolt pretty well.Pretty sure no wrench can get in their, any other ideas? Any way to get to them from the bottom?

I have a 95 Talon with power driver seat, unfortunately the motor has decided to quit working. I am trying to removed the seat to replace it, however the seat is stuck all the way back and I can not get to the rear bolts.I have checked to make sure it's getting good power and ground and made...

I have installed a full-length (master to slave) clutch line on 3 vehicle's now, 2 of which were running heavy duty clutches (1 ACT 2600, the other I believe was a Southbend DXD) and I have not had one problem yet. I think the full line even helped with engagement issues on one of the vehicles...

I thought crank since he has a 97 it should have the cam sensor on the other side of the head unless someone has swapped in a different motor and wiring harness into the vehicle.

Looks like a crank sensor?

Personally I would just pick up a dolly for a FWD, they are cheap enough to rent (<$50) from Uhaul.

Did you properly bleed the lifters when installing them? Possibly stuck open and caused some valve damage which is why you have no compression. I'm assuming you have done a compression/leak down test?

The main bearing set has a 3 piece "thrust washer" in 97+ engines. In earlier engines its a one piece design.

If the vehicle overheated that bad I would have replaced the head personally. And the machine shop should have pressure tested the cylinders with the valves installed to make sure their were not other problems.

biglady only made them for the turbo versions also. I'm unsure about the n/t world.

Mitsubishi dealership, JNZtuning, etc... Any place that has OEM parts. Just give a dealership a call and they can give you the part #. If I had caps on this computer I would look it up.

Biglady stopped making the front and rear mounts last time I checked. I would just go with Avid's set of 4 if your looking to go solid.

Check the transmission seal, and anything on that side of the engine, such as the valve cover oil pan gasket, etc...

Check to see if the it's still in time. May have jumped time and bent some valves.

The broken thing in the center looks to just be a part of the throwout bearing that has broken off.

That picture is of a non-turbo manual transmission. A turbo transmission just has one cover for the bellhousing kind of like 11 in the picture.

I would assume the OP is talking about a 2G according to his profile.I don't know of any shim's so to say on a 2G manual, theirs the block to trans alignment dowel pins, then the starter plate. On the auto's however their is a "shim" so to say that goes into the crank that helps locate the...

Which shim are you referring too?

The gasket should be a OEM Mitsubishi composite headgasket, ARP's installed w/ a torque wrench in 30-60-90 increments, from the middle out. I'm really thinking rings on that motor, a leakdown test would tell for sure.

A boost leak test may be a simpler fix instead of tracing all of the lines. It will also show if any couplers/intercoolers hoses are also leaking and causing a weak vacuum. 18in/hg seems pretty low still I think.A tester is pretty easy to build, and just need a small compressor to do it.Fix...

By some oil in the SMIC what do you mean? Like a quart, a small layer? Sounds like typical blow-by from a turbo'ed car. If their is not shaftplay I would suspect rings or valve seals, especially w/ the compression tests wet/dry being that significantly different. That motor did have a decent...

Thanks! I was pretty sure it was a 2G Non-LSD Manual from the start but just wanted to make sure. I now see where the ratio is actually listed on the differential itself which I did not know before hand. And it does not have any kind of LSD stickers which would make sense as the axles that were...

I have searched but have not found much information on differences between rear diffs other than auto or manuals. I have this differential that came in a car I bought a while ago and it has just been sitting. The car was swapped from an Auto to a Manual, so I'm not sure if this was the Auto or...

I have done both a WOT and closed throttle test back to back on the same motor with similar results on each cylinder.

He already has poly inserts. I would check crank endplay as another possibility, just a thought though.

When doing a free rev it will spike real quick as their is a small load on the motor, depending on how quick you rev/how high you rev you may hit 5-10psi it should quickly drop however. But if you hold it at 5k it should not be in any kind of boost unless you have some sort of 2-step.

I would check the spark plugs make sure they are all firing, check compression, then check fuel pressure/injectors.

It's a Garrett turbo. It's off a GM diesel motor I believe. Just wondering if someone could provide a little more insight as I am thinking of using it in a friends build.Pics: http://i607.photobucket.com/albums/tt152/tjphillips36/6288_98390047875_592487875_2230602_.jpg...

Doesn't look stock in the pictures. Looks like it has an exhaust. Body looks pretty rough, paint wise. It's definately worth looking into, and $2k for the car is a pretty good deal.

Picture # 2 The red connector looks like the A/C drier connectorPicture # 3 Wire is for the oil pressure idiot light, the gold pulley looking thing is the oil filter housing, must be a oil leak their.

It's a freshly re-built 98 motor with the revised 3 piece thrust bearing, has maybe 100 miles on it...

Hello, I am working on a 95 TSi AWD. Stock motor, with a Southbend DXD clutch and disc. Brand new OEM through out bearing, release fork, pivot ball, and master cylinder. Clutch has been adjusted.The problem I am having is every time I push the clutch in the rpms drop significantly to like...

I have a 98 Talon TSi AWD. It just started knocking the other day, and making another noise that sounds like piston slap but only when cold starting and warming up. The check engine light is on, and it's showing a misfire in cylinder 2.I'm thinking it may be rings or the beginning of a bad...

Sounds like a timing issue to me. I would check the CAS.

I would say give it a little TLC. Rubber lines tend to age, and start to dry rot and crack. It's fairly common for any older car to burst a rubber line that hasn't been replaced ever, usually it's a radiator hose however.