can't find rayjay stuff anywhere in bulk.... and I also need the hx spring style bearing spacers...for the holsets that don't use retaining rings.... thanks.
So, you've torn down your turbo, what ever it may be, and you have a busted fin. No need to junk it, its fairly easy to repair. Chances are, if your re-building your own turbo, your competent enough to fix your compressor wheel.C/W = Compressor wheel.OopsSo here we are...
With the availability of turbo rebuild kits on the web, its good to see people building their own turbo's. Here's a few tips to keep your turbo running longer and a few things you tube didn't do right.First and foremost. Removing your housing, clean your clamp, and always use new locking...
Snow season. Need snow clearance, looking to lift quite a bit, going to be trying a local dirt/snow trail. Anyone have success in adding a few inches over stock ?
Well this site has been really good to me, so I thought I would share, the way to really rebuild a turbo. Its alot diffrent than what youtube or a tech articals have posted, and while I know the average guy can't really do most of this, if it helps one person, then I think its time well spent...
First and foremost this is not a "how to rebuild" there are plenty detailed references on the subject, however some "practices" are incorrect.First off, before you even start your rebuild lets take a look at the kit to be used.Use only genuine Mitsubishi parts, You'll see on eBay...
Well I've been jacking with my car and dsm's in general for a while now, moved from 2g to 1g dsm, changing parts, typical maint. and basically, I want to build my own to really know my engine inside and out. Before I get into asking 1.6 million questions, I'm looking to get a block 6 bolt off...
Just moved here from Virgina/Okinawa, started gathering a few dsm's here locally. I by no means know everything there is to know about our cars, however I think that if a few people knew a little, it would be alot easier on all of us.Mostly 420a so far besides my FWD and a 4g63 N/T Laser...
NGR has from what Ive seen, really good reviews. They obviously have a good diaphragm. However even though 160 $ is still a good price for a quality BOV, Im still trying to pinch pennys. So My question is this, Ebay knockoff 30$ Type S, with the 40$ NGR Diaphragm = 70$ quality Type S BOV...
When I turn the lights off my whole car outside lights inside lights gauges parking lights everything. might be related, my car rpms are bouncing around at idle and stalls Almost like when your MAS is going or when bov is not recirculated and the hose is removed from the intake... somethings up...