I'm looking for a good valve cover and the center and upper timing cover pieces here in El Paso. If anyone has happens to have them, pm me with a price for them.

1g base fuel pressure= 36.3psi.

I would do a boost leak test, a visual inspection is not enough. I've had a couple fuel pumps go bad on me before but the car would only start to misfire up top, not fall flat on it's face. I have had boost leaks that cause the car to fall flat on it face at 3k RPM.

It might be a little overkill, but it would be good way of knowing if your filter is clogged in your restrictor. I would be curious to see the pressure drop comparison between normal operation of the restrictor and one with a clogged filter.

All those items get there power from the fuse box in the engine compartment. You might want to get your multimeter and check for power at those fuses. Visually inspect it again. If your headlights and horn are the only things acting up I would check those fuse and relay terminals first...

I'm a bit confused by your description. Are you saying the starter sounds like it engages the flywheel but doesn't turn the engine over? Or are you saying the starter sounds like it's freewheeling? Either way if the engine's not turning over, then there are no sensor readings for the ecu to...

What color is the smoke? How much smoke?

No, don't remove the wastegate spring. Whatever the psi is required to compress the spring is the minimum amount of boost you will be able to run. So if you have a 10 psi spring, then 10 psi is the minimum boost you will run. You can only adjust boost upward from there with the MBC. So if you...

So, coming in late in the game. Where we at with this?

Yeah, I guess if there's nothing wrong with the surface where the starter mounts, and the bolts were tight, I'd say starter. Also, thanks for the links to the manuals Steve. I couldn't find them anywhere online.

Well if when you jumped power to your starter solenoid the engine cranked over, then your starter is not your problem. How did you go about checking your starter relay? Also you should have power at two of the pins in the socket where the relay connects when you have the key in the start...

Just pull the relay out. Run your jumper wire from your socket with the red and black wire and connect the other end to the socket with the black and yellow wire. Then turn the key to start. If it cranks it's your relay.I might be wrong on the color for the wire powering the relay. I'm...

Yup, you're right Steve. My mistake. Disregard the clicking part. Just checking for power to the relay, and power out at the black and yellow wire.

Ok, lets check the Starter relay. The clicking sound you're hearing in the center console is probably a different relay. Your starter relay is gonna be towards the bottom of the dash to the left of the steering column. There are three relays there. The starter relay is the one in the center...

Ok, no problem. Lets try hooking up like number 4. Positive lead to the output of the solenoid, and negative lead to a good ground. Turn the key to the start position. You should get battery voltage. If you don't get any voltage coming out of that terminal then get yourself a jumper wire. We'll...

Ok, lets start all over so there's no misunderstanding, and we'll use the little drawing here as reference. The drawing's not exact to the car, but you should be able to figure out which wires and terminals I'm talking about more or less. And you're looking at the backside of the starter where...

I'm not sure if I'm understanding you, but you should not have any power on that signal wire if you do not have the key in the start position. If you're seeing power on that wire while you're not cranking then you should go back and check your starter relay. That being said, you say you have...

Ok, so from the beginning. You've checked you battery and it's ok. You've checked the wire from the battery to the starter. It's connected and there is battery power to that side of the solenoid. When you turn the ignition to the start position you have power at the signal wire at the solenoid...

I know this threads pretty old, but I'd like to know how this driveshaft has done. How did this perform at the track? Has it held up well? Has anyone else purchased one of these? Any info would be good.

You need a wideband O2 sensor to get your A/F ratios. I assume you have something to control your fuel with? Boost without knowing A/F... not good.

Yeah corrosion has a funny way of giving you the dead battery click and then you end up wanting to replace the battery. Until you find the crazy voltage drop between the cable and terminal. Can be a nightmare. Hope that ground cable fixes for you, at least its easy to replace.:thumb:

If fuses are good check your connections, power and ground for your starter. Make sure there's no corrosion built up on your battery terminals. After that I might be tempted to check at the starter relay.

Ok, here's a stupid question I could probably answer on my own, but I'll ask it anyway. Why can't the rear section be made of aluminum? And also, does this come with a yoke option for running the big shaft transfer case?

I have the harbor freight bench top drill press. It works just fine, haven't had any issues with it. Just aim where you want it. Haha.

I've used it a few times on head gaskets on several cars, but they were just regular old rebuilds. The machine work wasn't anything great. If you can get a good finish on your mating surfaces I don't think you should need it. I didn't use it on my own car the last time I installed the cometic...

Yes, that would most likely be your problem. If your wastegate isn't able to open up to dump the excess exhaust flow then you are going to continue to build boost. Disconnect your actuator from the wastegate flap. Check if the actuator can be pulled out and springs back, or you could check it...

Wow, cars nice. Engine needs lots of love, but that's the best part. Have fun with the project.

So you are getting a clunk when you put the car in gear with the car off? Are you disengaging the clutch when you do this?

You sure you didn't drop anything in there while the trans. was out? Your're not missing any bolts? When you rotate one wheel does the other side rotate (in opposite direction or same direction if lsd). I took mine to get a clutch in one time and they managed to drop one of my rear motor mount...

ACT2600 and Fidanza. This has held up for a while now, love it. I kill clutches. This is clutch number 7 for me and it's taken all the abuse.

You don't need the AEM fuel rail. You also don't need the cam gears unless you're going to be running aftermarket cams. And then only if you're going to do the work to degree the cams, which you should. Other than that you can save yourself the money.Oops, sorry Flash1970, didn't read your...

The price doesn't seem to bad to me. If money's tight I wouldn't worry about how much power it would hold, I'd be more worried about it just getting me around. I've gotten clutch kits from the local autoparts store and they're great. They don't hold alot of power but for daily driving they're...

Great, thanks for the information.

That came out really nice. What grit did you use for wet sanding after paint?

Does anybody know what the size of the turbine wheel inducer/Exducer?

Yeah for 800 bucks and if the car is as clean as you say it is, I would definitely buy it. Sure your gonna have problems but if its a project your looking for these cars are great for it. The performance you get out of them in the end is awesome. Plus they have a huge following so you won't ever...

Long zip ties on driveshafts is pretty funny. They usually jump out of the car pretty quick wondering what the noise is.I also used the shop crane to put someones tool cart in the back of a garbage truck.Turning off the shop air hoses continuously makes people pretty upset also...

Whoa, nice. That going on you current setup or you building something new?:cool:

Looks pretty clean. I definitely wouldn't let it go for less than 1k.

It sounds like you got yourself a pretty good deal. I also have a 98 talon and the engine hasn't walked yet and I beat the hell out of it at the drag strip for the last 4 years. Before that it was a daily driver. I think if yours has gone 130k and hasn't walked yet it's probably not going to. Is...

I know this thread is pretty old but I have a question. I noticed when you installed the rear crossbar on the rear strut towers, you cut the ends off the factory crossmember that runs along the floorboard and then up the towers. Does that rear crossbar take the place of the crossmember? Can you...

yeah it would suck for the turbo to poke a hole in the radiator when the engine bucks. Your setup looks wicked awesome though. I hope to be where your at in the near future.

The turbo doesn't contact the radiator at all?

The interior came out excellent. Clean car, but I'm not really liking the white gauges.

Looks pretty good.:thumb:

Black?

Wow that came out really nice. Can't wait to see the final product. Curious to see how the paint acts on the bumper though.

I would just put the big 16g hotside on, no sense in using an adapter if there's a housing available that bolts right up. Simpler is better. Just my opinion.:D

Well I had the 14b turbo on my car at one point and was pushing 21psi, but the turbo was completely inefficient at that point and it would creep down to about 17-18psi in the high rpm's. So yeah, I wouldn't push it passed 18psi, that's about the peak of it usefulness and it won't shorten it's...

Yep, Pretty much, lazy south people.LOL