I've tried every firing order I could think of. The stock 2g is the correct one, and it does not misfire, but it also doesn't start. Cranks fine without plugs, with plugs it will try to start for about 5 seconds then stops cranking.A cold compression test showed cylinders 1-4 as 165 - 150 -...
Engnbldr valves, the same kind everyone else uses.Nothing obviously wrong under the valve cover. Looks like some slightly bent valves again.Not much can be learned until I at least get the timing covers off and I can check my timing marks on the plate. Will report back results then.
Everything I have done to this car was after long research, not much "guessing" involved, but I think you did just hit on the guess I made wrong. Here's my theory:The first build I timed everything right. It ran fine, but I forgot the woodruf key, so timing probably jumped a lot when the crank...
Head was resurfaced twice and my machinist knows these cars. Putting it back together so many times may be the problem, I know how to put it back together but maybe I am messing up somewhere.The timing mark on the plate wore off. It is a trimmed-up 2g one on a 6 bolt.Bottom end turned nicely...
Lifters are brand new topline ones this time and I bled them and made sure they compressed easily by hand.The bottom end turns freely by hand, everything turns easily until you put plugs in. There are places it is harder to turn than others, and the engine seems to want to turn backwards at...
I keep rebuilding this head and it just keeps bending the valves on start up. I think I am doing everything right, tensioning the belt with the Jay's racing tool. Timing looks good but all I get is backfire and no-start.I had some serious head carnage that put the car down a year ago, all the...
You will need better valve springs, stockers are a bad bet as I learned firsthand.I kept the stock valvetrain going from fp2s to 3s and it split a rocker arm in two when the spring bound, bending all 16 valves .It's worth it to put $1k into the head first, rather than after you f up your...
Lithium based grease. It turns easily by hand, but does not continue turning after being let go at all. I think I will try mounting it up and priming it to see how it turns then.
How stiffly should a turbo turn with just assembly lube in it?It must either be that I don't know what to expect from a rebuild or the ebay housing is not machined right?
Ok. I did that and it fit, then I greased the o-ring up much better and made it fit, but now the turbo won't turn freely when I put the snap ring on. Oil sealing ring probably got deranged?It spins freely, considering the heavy assembly lube I used in it, until I put on the snap ring. It spins...
Justin,
I am trying to build a billet 20g but the compressor housing just won't go on far enough to get the snap ring to really secure or to align the dowel pin.I think it is a K1 wheel if it matters. Comp housing is an ebay stock-appearing unit for making a 20g.I am sure the internals are...
Kinda OT, but on the subject of ARP headstuds, if you get dual valve springs the nuts will no longer clear. ARP sells a nut with a smaller collar, on my 7 bolt head I needed 4. The two middle, top right, and bottom left. I never see this information on here and it seems like a problem people...
Can do, but I just tested the exhaust side and 4 leaked, 2 badly. Roughly the same as the intake side did.It's the engnbldr valves right? They are only 120 plus shipping so a new set is not a big deal.
Ok, after filling the runners with pb, then tapping each valve tip a few times 6 out of 8 intake valves leaked. 2 were streaming. 2 were slower leaks but immediately apparent. The other 4 leaked a very small amount, and it took a 5 count for any pb to appear.So, new set of valves. Guides...
To check for false readings? Everything is new and clean. Never started just cranked.I don't have any brass drifts, but I will test again, filling the runners this time. I can order drifts if this is an essential part of the test.
I flipped the head upside-down and filled the CCs with alcohol.2 started streaming almost immediately out the exhaust. I left it for an hour and one was empty, two were half empty, and one was full. The full one still had a trickle come out an exh. valve, but it took an hour. Only the ones...
Ah, so beefier springs were why it felt different to turn the engine by hand.Seems this is the source of everything. Explains why timing jumped so badly the first time too. It was the first work I did when I got the motor many years ago and I screwed up it seems.The head is already off, but...
The woodruf key isn't there! It must have not been installed...LOLThe crank was down to ~40 ft/lbs of torque. Must have been enough to hold for a minute, then let everything slip because there was no key.It still doesn't explain why the engine didn't turn uniformly, or the nasty clunk...
I even made a tool to immobilize the crank for torquing the bolt. This was put together a few years back though, so I can't be certain I put the correct amount of torque on it.It happened twice in a row too. I didn't note that the bolt was loose the first time, just that the crank timing was...
I went to start it after a head rebuild due to 16 bent valves. Timing marks were perfect. The head is built, with supertech duals and FP3 cams.No start. Got a loud clunk that sounded like it came from the head. I thought it was the drained lifters being loud, and it turned freely, so I kept...
I can't figure out why my trans keeps leaking at the rear axle seal.I replaced it, and didn't touch it, but now it leaks again after 20 miles.I think the problem is a kiggly spacer moved my axle out far enough to cause sealing issues. Once bolted to the block, the axle is about an inch...
Yeah, I learned that info after compressing it quickly.But how did blown seals lead to the top of it shearing off? That is what I don't understand, since it snapped at the eyehole for the pin, near the top of the plunger. At least it left no doubt that something was wrong.
I was hoping not to have to replace my timing belt auto-tensioner on my engine, a 6 bolt with a 2g head. It had 70 miles on it.But...I tried to set the preload on the pulley with the jayracing tool, and the pin would only come out when there was no load on it. When preloaded, it would not...
That's why I don't know how to judge the results of the oil-leak test, since I don't know how broken in it is yet. It happened with only 70 miles on the rebuilt motor. I was hard on it from the first mile though, using the motoman method of break-in.
I had a rocker arm crack in two, and all the valves smashed the pistons badly. I fixed the gouges up best I could on the pistons, then tested for pinched rings using this method: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/450572-how-check-pinched-bad-rings.htmlThe oil drop was minimal...
Yeah, and the valves are pushed into the sides of the head too. It's trash. But are the pistons going to be acceptable with that kind of gouging? I'm going to clean the high spots up with a dremel and test the rings after cleaning all the metal out.How much can a camshaft lobe be scored? One...
I found interesting damage after taking off the tbelt, the exhaust cam gear has a chunk missing. I may have not done the belt so wrong after all, and it was an internal failure. They were plain FP3s.
Eh, pulled the plugs already but they were fine. Will try to remember not to do that in the future.I'm glad you chimed in, maybe you can tell me if it's worth all that machine work.I don't have much into this head, I ported it myself and it came on the car. Stock valves and springs too...
I can't get the timing-belt tension right on my 6-bolt swapped 95 with a 2g head.The lower timing tin must be wrong since the access hole for the special tool will not let it go in, the angle is wrong. This led to me trying to time it without using the special timing tool and it slipped 6...
Injectors can be resold, and they are not hard to change out. 1050's would be fine with that turbo and 25-28psi but you would have to go above 80% duty cycle. 1200s might be a better compromise.I would get an evo3/RVR intake manifold instead of an SMIM as well. They can be resold for the same...
The EF1 and holset compare in price only. The EF1 is a bit cheaper and a lot easier though, and not that much slower. Especially on the street. And a billet 20g is somewhat cheaper than the EF1, alot cheaper if I don't rebuild and just slap the wheel in.
So, $2-300 for the hx35, $300 for the housing, $150 to rebuild = $650-750Extremepsi sells the plain jane s256 for $850. I can't find where to get a bolt on housing, but it's probably $300 for a total of $1150. As much as $500 more than the holset!So the borg is hard to justify on this...
Good to know Glenn. But fitment was only one of my concerns about a hx35.The things that turn me off about holsets are that I would need to make a 12an+ drain, that it is designed to run more boost than I want to and is not fully "awake" under 25psi, and that I am buying an old turbo which I...
I want a 55lb/min turbo eventually, but I don't want to use an old turbo if I don't have to. It sounds like the hx35 and the borg are going to be tight fits, but possible. But the borg is a new turbo, and it's in the $1k budget after selling the 16g and getting a BEP housing.
Yeah, that's what I want. Maybe I should just stick it with the 16g and get bigger injectors and pump. What I really want to know about is fitment. Does it require a new oil drain too?
That's good to know that it fits glenn, and I probably will get a hx35 eventually. But I want to learn to weld in the near future so I can do that one myself some day. Otherwise, a twin-scroll 12cm t3 hx35 breaks the bank.Looks like I will just upgrade to billet 20g for now and leave...
I thought that the 16g would need machining to become a 20g? How much does machining run, $100?So I could get the fp 8cm housing right now for $200, and this wheel and housing for $200, and have an almost new billet 20g that bolts up the same as before? If I rebuilt it too it would be about...
I haven't, but I have read that. And that's why I've been looking to stay TD05 with an EF1 or a 68hta. I don't know which is a better deal, but I think the 68 is the better turbo and it is new.
Converter will remain stock. I won't be launching often, so it is not a huge deal. I don't see much track use in its future.The Green Xl does look good. I would only need an intercooler pipe and coupler to accommodate the down-firing turbo. Too bad I can't buy now when they are on sale.I...
So after 4 years of modifying this car I have it running perfect. It got a freshly rebuilt 2.3L with FP3s, a freshly rebuilt ATX, and an E316G on E85. The rest of my mods are in my profile but it's all the usual bolt-ons.I cannot decide on the next step, which turbo to get for 45-55lb/min. The...
Holy hell this looks easy. Thanks for sharing. I am so doing this to every car I own now. It looks like overspray isn't even a big deal because it comes off with a solvent!
To me, budget means MHI turbos. But they won't get you to 450whp.So I guess the order of cheap power would be:
Used holset
Rebuilt holset
Used FP3065/Green
Ecmlink is great for a beginner, as it comes with an entire community of support which is, by-and-large, more knowledgeable than other dsm forums.But you will have to learn to use it yourself, speed shops generally don't know how to use ecmlink at all.It really is easy though, once you...
That part is the AWD right ouput shaft seal.As for removal: try getting a screwdriver up under the outside of the seal, then pushing part of the seal inward by hammering on the screwdriver. This pushes the seal inward, making it like a heart shape, and it will come out after enough...